Garry G

In addition to the books mentioned in the article in the latest RCM&E Special Edition there is a very informative book by 4+ Publications, ISBN 80-902559-1-4 which I bought several years ago from PolModels in Acton North London. Don't know if they still exist but for any one thinking of building Tony's latest plan it is a must have. 36 pages of photos and 1/72 scale plans of all Mk's plus camouflage patterns etc. Probably just about every photo ever taken! Garry G 

I am really surprised at these current figures Timbo, presumably slightly higher figures would apply to my 600 Race. I have always maintained that the higher voltage from 3s LiPo's wasn't a problem, just slightly more revs, and it is current that is the killer. So if 43 Amps( about 450 Watts) I was drawing isn't the main cause of the over heating it suggests that inadequate ventilation is the cause.  Before I start butchering the plane, any other thoughts out there?

A cautionary tale, I have been using a Speed 600 Race , the one with the brushes outside at the back, in a Playboy Junior, using a 3s LiPo and it has been going like a rocket. No need to check the watts as  it climbs like a home sick angel.  Suddenly not working, open up and one brush holder has come loose and a capacitor has come unsoldered, fix this but looks like it got hot !!  Better check with Wattmeter, My God it was drawing 43 AMPS, the casing had started to melt and the soldered connection was sprayed around the inside including on the LiPo! Why I didn't have a disaster and the plane bursting into flames in flight only the gods know.  The lesson here is ALWAYS check what the load is. Garry G

Many thanks Timbo, understand where you are coming from re. the ON/OFF switch. If I am using a UBEC with a ESC that I have removed the +ve red pin, this is still plugged into channel 3 ( throttle ) where do I plug the UBEC into the RX ? the normal battery socket? I remember when the most demanding technical decision was wether to use 6 or 8 strands in the rubber motor.

I'm a little confused about all this, is a UBEC a separate piece of kit that can be used with an ESC with BEC or only with one that has OPTO as I thought that this type of ESC must operate with a separate battery. Also in passing why do most ESC's  not have an ON/OFF switch like a Jeti?  RegardsGarry G

Hi Martyn and others, tried my idea of flexible drive screwdriver with allen key type bolts, battery tray still in the way!!I think the answer will be to cut out the covering on th u/s of the fuss. to get at the fixings and make a removable hatch.  Garry G

Hi Peter, when you use cyano to stick Mylar hinges do you also pin them as an extra safety measure. I recently bought some furry type and the package stated pinning not necessary.

I thought I had posted a thank you yesterday for all the replies, but it's not here, so thank you again. Must have ticked the wrong box! p.s. Cyano de Bererac nose there's more than one way to skin a cat. Garry G

Island Models appear to have stopped trading, does anyone know if these kits are still available? I have twice e-mailed Weston, who are now selling two ARTF versions, to ask if they intend to  produce the 50 size but  have had no response.  The original kit was CNC cut and went together very accurately, someone must still have the programme so it's a shame that it can't be reproduce.  Garry G

In the first part of  " Dont't bin it , fix it " theres a refernce the above.Any advice on when to use it but more importantly when not to use it.  Garry G

Have looked on Just Engines website in 2 stroke silencers and the Super Quiet silencer  only comes with one baffle so why I have 2 in mine is a mistery.Don't actually remember ordering one but must have. Check out the website as it has some information about changing the location of the baffle and also adapting it.   Regards  Garry G

Good morning Peter, sorry about the delay in replying but my laptop has been up the swannee for a while. Yes apparently that silencer does have two baffles: have tried drilling out the first one nearest the motor exhaust ( the holes were more like eyelids) to reduce the back pressure.   The motor did run a little better but still not happy so I just took the baffle out again and it runs o.k.   We live and learn.   Garry G

Hi Peter, Have spoken to Just Engines and you are right, it is the super silencer as the standard as supplied only has one baffle and no shiney centre section as mine does.   I am going to try drilling out the holes on the first baffle to see if that will keep the motor running and also reduce the noise level which is noticeably louder with it missing.   Cheers

Hello Peter, have been flying now several times with only one baffle and the motor has performed perfectly, tried today with the second baffle back in the silencer and problem returned.   Surprised Just Engines didn't mention this could be the cause when I spoke to them originally.

Thanks Peter, weather permitting I will be at our site tomorrow and will give it a good wringing out. If it proves to be the cause of the problem I will be over the moon as it has been bugging me for months.   Keep you posted. Garry G

I have been having trouble with an ASP 46, it would hunt and the rpm vary and then just die. Tried every conceivable check and changed bits to no avail. Today a club member said try removing one of the bafflels in the silencer, and it seems to have done the trick. Is it something to do with back pressure effecting the fuel flow?

Hi Andy, spoke to Phil this morning and yes that horn will do nicely.   I fly with Phoenix Model Flying Club (Dorset) and he knew our site, just passed the "Silent Woman " pub which you probably have visited when you lived in Poole.   Keep in touch   Garry G

Thanks for that info. Andy, the Dubro DUB882 one looks promising so have e-mailed them for more details, their phone doesn't seem to accept calls. Probuild are based only a few miles from where I live, small world.

The aileron is a tapered built up one with riblets and 1/16th balsa strips front and back with a 1/8th liteply plate to take a horn. I will source some carbon fibre sheet, guess needs to be 2-3mm thick, and try to devise some sort system to pin it under the balsa so it won't pull out. Will let you know how I get on.

Thanks Matt, how do you fix them onto the aileron?   By the way my deliberate mistake was to false trailing edge, it is a false LEADING edge

I am building a Capiche 50 and the ailerons have a false trailing edge made from 1/2" balsa shaped in a triangle down to the hinge.   Does anyone know where I can buy a horn that projects at least 1/2" or more beyond the base plate so that the hole in the horn can be located over the hinge line.

I notice on the Futaba 3001 box that you get increased speed and torque if you increase from 4.8volts to 6 volts. Does this have any adverse effect on the RX which is usually 4.8v ?  i.e. will it burn out.

On a side mounted engine you are looking at the spray bar running vertically up the air intake, is the centre line of the carb. the same as the c.l. of the crank shaft?

  I would like to suggest an Albatross for 70/91 f.s.   Apart from the version by Belair ( which is too big and too expensive for me) does anyone know of a plan and part kit ?      

Hi Ian, if my memory  serves me correct an earlier version of the PC9 I had did have a dowel at the front but I can't remember if I altered it, I know I didn't have any engine problems, just my love of flying into trees that wrote that one off. A couple of other club members have mounted the engine sideways and also 45 deg. from vertical and they have no problems. I just didn't like the idea of butchering that rather nice cowl.  Thinking of getting an electric version !