Mark Lubbock
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Posts posted by Mark Lubbock
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I got mine in time. Considering the problems we all are faced with I think they've done a pretty good job with the mag.
I have to say, I like the free plans but prefer the smaller/simpler models than the large Pro Plans.
Anyone else notice that the cover photo is reversed/mirrored? (!)
Edited By Mark Lubbock on 20/12/2020 13:55:24
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DC Sabre was my first engine way back in '72-'73! I have a number of these engines now and a 7x6 is best for control line and an 8x4 for FF/RC. they will swing a 9x4 but the power output is not good at these revs.
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Sorry about the previous post my pound signs seem to come out as 'question mark' symbols??
Edited By Mark Lubbock on 16/07/2017 23:31:20
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I did think fridges, but a ?300 gennie, a few litres of petrol to save a couple of quids worth of gas??
I run a 50w solar panel (?40+10 for the controller) runs all the lighting, tv, pump etc. no problem, I just don't get it??Edited By Mark Lubbock on 16/07/2017 23:15:02
Edited By Mark Lubbock on 16/07/2017 23:15:54
Edited By Mark Lubbock on 16/07/2017 23:19:52
Edited By Mark Lubbock on 16/07/2017 23:28:48
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Just returned after a great weekend in the campervan. Excellent show and some lovely models. The stars for me were the Civilian airliners, Vulcan, Lightning and the B17, not that this takes anything away from the others. Fantastic flying by everyone, particularly in the difficult crosswind conditions on Sunday.
The only downside? Why oh why do some folks in campers and caravans feel the need to run generators from 8am till 10pm in some cases (by us!!!) even when they're not in???? Have some consideration (no they wasn't charging batteries for models!
Well done everyone, see you at Much Marcle!!!
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I just came down on my bike for the Saturday and had an excellent few hours as a spectator. Will probably come in the campervan in August for the whole weekend an bring some models to fly.
Well done guys!!!
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Hi, the tiny rudder will be fine with that amount of dihedral, use no more than about 20deg movement either way. Also , if you are using an elevator, consider extending a tapered ply dihedral brace out at least 2 rib bays, maybe adding an extra spar and webs to the inner panels, you will be stressing the wing much more than intended even at the same flying weight. A small motor, battery, RX and servos shouldn't weigh much more than the original rubber/prop combination anyway, so should make a great flying model. You should only need 20-30W of power and aim for a CG much further forward than the FF position.
Best of luck, hope this helps
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Whoops how did I forget Laser?
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I have a friend who works in China, The Chinese will make anything you ask at any price point you want, it's just the quality that changes as anyone who has toiled with a cheap Chinese motorcycle will testify, including me, At first look they look pretty good but you soon realise they are very pooly finished and although well made in terms of fit etc., are produced using very poor quality materials. I assume the same applies to model engines, so if you are paying medium to high prices then it really makes no difference if they are made in England, Japan or China, apart from that it would be nice to have a genuine British product to buy. Is it only PAW that are genuinely British now?
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Probably my favourite engine is the DC Dart, maybe followed by the PAW 249, both foolproof and reliable. I also loved my Fox .19, all of these from my early C/L and FF days.
Later on flying R/C I have a soft spot for the OS 10FSR, light, powerful and reliable like all OS engines. Later still the red Irvine .46, I have 2, have been outstanding, but I believe they are made by OS also?
I do like my little home made diesels, the ML Midge and its derivatives , but then I may be a little biased there!!
Edited By Mark Lubbock on 13/08/2015 15:28:11
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Hi, in response to Alex Whittaker's question, the mystery engine is a Rogers. 29.. They were known as a 'slag' engine as they were built with no liner, the ali piston running (?) directly in the ali cylinder. As a result they wore very quickly if they could be made to run at all.
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Get yourself a copy of Ron Moulton's Model Aero Engine Encyclopaedia, it details designing, building, (including casting of crankcases) a model engine. It was my inspiration for building my own little engine, the ML Midge (one also fitted to a Cardinal). You can find details of my little engine on Ron's website it is a good beginners small engine.
I think everything you say is doable at home, once you have a crankcase the Mills is a very simple and forgiving engine, best of luck!!!
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Most full size four cylinder motorcycle engines and many modern cars use two double ended coils, 1 connected to cylinders 1-4, the other to 2-3, the ignition pulses (points or electronic) are driven from the crankshaft so you get a "wasted spark" on all cylinders on the exhaust stroke. assuming your engine is 1342 as you say (outer pistons rising together as the inner two fall) this is the system you need as you only need two ignition circuits. if you cant get double ended coil, try a motorcycle breaker, ok for bench running but a bit heavy for flying, or you could connect 2 coils in parallel (twice) which is really what a double ended coil is. hope this helps and good luck.
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DB Tinker(any size) and why not put a free plan in the mag?
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Dulux have these on offer at the moment, I got mine from B&Q. There are many colours available, some making a pretty good match for some WW1 & 2 camouflage colours especially desert schemes. They thin with water and cover well. Use thin coats to avoid excess weight!!
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I was just making the joke about the old SC gear being unreliable in my experience (maybe because all my gear in those impoverished pocket money times was past it's best?) -seriously, I think it's a great idea & I will probably give it a go when the full details are out
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I liked the single channel emulator- I wonder whether it is really realistic? I was just wondering if it had a random function (probably just when you set the longest motor run, on the last flight of the day) of failing to respond. That was my experience of single channel anyway-lots of exercise!!!!
Keep up the good work!!
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Yes I do mean old, possibly early 1970s with the upright venturis, not R/C.
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I can't make it I'm afraid, I am double booked-going on a motorbike rally in the Shetland Isles-hopefully next year.
Have a great time all
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I have some old PAWs & the only external difference between the 249s & the .19 I have is that the needle is swept back on the .19.
Some of the smaller ones ( 80 & 100) have 80 or 100 stamped on the backplate.
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Have been & camped all weekend for years but didn't go this year as they have finally priced me out of it.
Hope everyone had a good time despite the weather Sat,
Edited By David Ashby on 18/06/2012 13:24:29
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Hi again Richard-the ED Mk111 (told you I'd be corrected!!) looks to be assembled wrongly-I'm sure the transfer passge should be to the front & the exhausts either side-might be worth putting this right before attempting to run-the transfer may be restricted or even blocked in this position
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I think the first one is an ED Mk11 2.49cc (I stand to be corrected on this), it looks as though it may have a glow conversion fitted?
This engine alone is worth more than you paid for the lot, so well done!!
The second is a Cox Pee Wee .020 (.32cc).
hope this helps
Edited By Mark Lubbock on 22/04/2012 13:43:04
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You can get a radial tank/mount for the Wasp, makes it look like a Cox, screws into the crankcase when the backplate is removed-you may find one NOS somewhere or Ebay.
RCM&E December 20 / Jan 21 Issue
in RCM&E Magazine
Posted
Do you live in Ireland?
No, Herefordshire