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Chris Lee123

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Everything posted by Chris Lee123

  1. I thought I would you give an update, after reading the advice given I decided to give the acro wot another go partly due to cost and availability.   I assembled it, modified it to fit my larger packs and flew it at the weekend. It seems nice and stable in even in the 20mph gusts which is very nice, did some loops and rolls, it seems loop better / more accurately than my foamies. I gave it full throttle a couple of times and its nice and quick, faster than I expected although most of the time I was flying at half throttle and getting 10min flight time with 40% left which was very nice. Landings need a LOT of practice but all of them were safe, no damage just a bit fast but im sure with practice they will get better.   The only think I don't like is the bottom loading battery hatch. I've had to do away with the battery tray as it wouldn't fit with my larger packs, but I may have a look at it this week and see if i can come up with something better. Thanks for the advice   Edited By Chris Lee123 on 20/06/2016 14:17:07
  2. I have heard of people having to dig the engines out of the mud, I hope that doesn't happen to me.
  3. I thought I would add the picture from the crash. The was a large dent in the ground where it hit!
  4. Posted by Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 10/06/2016 14:17:04: Posted by Chris Lee 1 on 10/06/2016 13:50:11: I'm not a member of a club and fly almost always on my own, so I do rely on forums quite a bit, but I get my friend to show me a few of the basics about stalling as he seems to be able to fly and land far better than I. I would be very cautious about where you fly something as big and heavy as an acrowot if you are not at a club field. I dont know where you are flying, but that is really quite well out of park fly territory. I assume you have BMFA insurance? if not that really is a must! Yeah I have the insurance, I fly in a farmers field, its about 50 acre plus its surrounded by many many other fields so plenty of room to fly safely , only the odd horse to get in my way at the end of the strips!
  5. I'm not a member of a club and fly almost always on my own, so I do rely on forums quite a bit, but I get my friend to show me a few of the basics about stalling as he seems to be able to fly and land far better than I.
  6. Well at least I know what a stall looks like and does now.   Well after I told my father what happened (and he stopped laughing) he reminded me that my Twist 40 (purchased second hand) was still in his garage with all the parts to get it flying again, it just needs the new elevators gluing on and the electrics re-installed. I converted it last year and thought it had been thrown away, I was running it on 4s 3000mah packs but only getting 4 mins flight time which was a bit naff. As I already have it and don't need to spend any money on it I think I will get it up and flying and give it a go, but this time get my friend to give it a fly or two and make sure its all ok, as I was never happy with the way it flew, but then at the time I had only ever flown foam e's at the time. I think it should give me a bit of confidence in a heavier model and hopefully some practice with the landings. And then maybe later in the year or next year consider getting the acro wot again, or the pioneer. I think the only thing I didn't like about the acro wot build was trying to get the my 5amp packs in as they don't fit as standard. From what I have seen it is similar to the Hype 3D that BEB mentioned earlier. "you can then choose whether to fly it like a floam e or a heavier model!" Is this because of the large, thick wings so it can be flown nice and slow without stalling? If so , to NOT fly it like a foam e what do I do ?   Please don't think that I am ignoring the advice about the Seagull E-Pioneer or another acro wot I am just trying to make do with what I have as i'm slightly reluctant to put another £180 on the bonfire. Edited By Chris Lee 1 on 10/06/2016 13:44:06
  7. How do you fix a stall? Just add power or dip the nose?
  8. "if the wings start rocking, or the ailerons feel woolly, you're too slow and she's nearing the stall" That's exactly what was happening, at least I know the cause of the problem which is always a bonus. Thanks for the detailed explanation it really does help, I may have to get my friend to show me how to land the heavier models.
  9. Thank you all for the advice and suggestions its very much appreciated.   I did like the acro wot for all 15 mins lol. Going by the flights I had I would have got around 10 mins per flight which is another reason I wanted to use my 5 amp packs in it.   I think in the future I will go with BEB's suggestion of the high wing trainer and learn to fly a wooden model as it should be flown, but for now I think I will stick with my foam e and heli's, although a plane rekit is definitely cheaper than Trex 800!   As the heavier wooden planes don't like to be flown slowly, how do you come in slow enough to land? I managed to land the acro wot twice but it came in quite fast and used the whole landing strip.   Or maybe I will have a look and Ebay and see if any one has a cheap electric trainer for sale, it wont annoy me so much when I crash it then! Edited By Chris Lee 1 on 10/06/2016 09:11:58
  10. I have been flying foamies for a year or so now, I recently got a foame acrowot and think its briliant. I like it so much I decided to buy a balsa Acrowot. I flew it tonight and it flew well but not as I had expected. After 3 flights it is now on the bonfire, smoking nicely.... I think it stalled as I was coming in for landing and smashed it to bits. I guess i'm used to the foamies which fly very nicely slowly. I would like another wooden electric plane, but I would like one which is specifically designed for electric from day one rather than a conversion. I would also like to be able to use my 6s 5000mah lipos as I have 16 of them for the helis. ARTF is a must. After tonight perhaps something easier to fly, or harder to stall or perhaps I should just fly faster. I don't really want another acro wot as getting the packs in and out was a bit of a pain, it was designed for the larger packs. Can anyone recommend anything suitable?
  11. Has any one got any pictures of how and where the battery goes in / out?
  12. I was hoping to use my heli packs which are 6s 5000, a bit heavy? Whats the biggest pack that will fit?Edited By Chris Lee 1 on 04/06/2016 20:04:43
  13. Tom what setup did you go with in the end? Im thinking of of getting the balsa acrowot if/ when my foam e version dies.
  14. Posted by Peter Jenkins on 25/08/2015 20:58:41: Posted by Chris Lee 1 on 25/08/2015 09:26:38: Posted by Peter Jenkins on 24/08/2015 21:38:06: I think the other issue is that you have introduced some side area ahead of the CG so your yaw stability will have been greatly reduced compared to when it was IC powered. I don't under stand what you mean? Chris, the fin and rudder provide weathercock stability to the aircraft. In other words they keep the aircraft pointing into the airflow like a wind vane or weathercock. The fin and rudder are well behind the CG but if you introduce extra side area (your lipo) in front the the CG then the weather cock effect is reduced and the aircraft's directional (or yaw) stability will be reduced. Having the LiPo close to the propeller will increase the airflow speed compared with the airflow speed further back at the fin so the side force from the LiPo will be further enhanced compared with the fin/rudder combination. Putting the LiPo inside the airframe will return to the designer's intended yaw stability and your aircraft will fly as it was intended to. Hope that helps with your understanding. Brilliant thanks, hopefully I should have the lipo inside tonight and weather permitting give it ago!
  15. Posted by Bob Cotsford on 25/08/2015 15:18:10: just to cover all the bases, and in view of this being a model that has not flown previously - I take it slop or sticking in the aileron linkages has been eliminated? Yeah, no binding no slop.
  16. Posted by Peter Jenkins on 24/08/2015 21:38:06: I think the other issue is that you have introduced some side area ahead of the CG so your yaw stability will have been greatly reduced compared to when it was IC powered. I don't under stand what you mean?
  17. Posted by Martin Harris on 24/08/2015 20:23:19: Can you lower the battery to give some pendulum stability? You haven't made it obvious (to me, anyway!) if you flew it as an IC before conversion. If not, it doesn't look as though it's designed to be a stable model (mid-wing, no dihedral) as it's designed for 3D so perhaps it is just behaving as intended?     No i never flew it as a nitro, but a friend has the nitro version and its a lot more stable.   I will try to lower the battery, and put it inside to see if it has any affect. Edited By Chris Lee 1 on 25/08/2015 09:25:03
  18. I have recently converted my Hangar 9 Twist 40 to electric, I have it slightly nose heavy. I have mounted the lipo on top of the fuselage just behind the motor, I don't want to have to keep taking the wings off to change the battery, I may cut a hatch in the top and have the pack inside but undecided. When trying to fly straight and level it seems to be very unbalanced on the horizontal plane, if a little aileron is given to make it level it will tip to far. It seems a little extreme to me. Any ideas? Usual suspects?
  19. Well total change of direction I have just picked up a hangar 9 twist 40 in mint condition. I think the 900kv motor will work with either a 12.5 x 6 or a 12 x 8.
  20. Mainly helis for the last couple of years, then a couple of the durafly warbirds. tbh I prefer the look of the fun fly style things. Just trying to figure out a good spec for either the mini hype or the seagull funfly 3d. Just confused over weather to get a lower kv motor and bigger prop or higher kv and smaller prop. too much choice or maybe im just over complicating it!
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