Nigel R
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Posts posted by Nigel R
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Brian has fine advice in his post. Just a little extra speed can work wonders - it doesn't need much to increase elevator authority at the key moment - don't be afraid to feed in a dab of power, to control the rate of descent at the critical moment and to help with flare out.
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5 hours ago, Bob Field said:
Hi I am just about to start building the Chilli Breeze, and reading the posts regarding the need for weight in the nose to get the CG right, the plan shows the options of built up or solid tail is this where the problem is? would like to know which route other builders took, I am leaning now to a fully built up tail including the elevators
I usually do 1/8" "ribs" and 1/16" sheet either side. Reasonably light, more rigid than open frame, YMMV as ever.
Chilli has a nice long snout which does not suggest it will be difficult to get the CG in the right place.
IME (several IC incarnations of the Breeze, IC and electric conversion of the larger one) the CG was not a problem.
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5 minutes ago, GrumpyGnome said:
the AR620 new?
Just going to ask the same question.
Only thing i can really think of at this point is damage to rx. The servo monitor has told you the tx is sending something to the unresponsive channels.
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Crikey, i wish my build projects were this quick. I can't knock out a tailplane in the time it's taken you to do the entire airframe.
Nice work!
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Os 40 fp
Simple, reliable, excellent power/ weight ratio. Best engine os made for a long time.
Irvine 36
Best of British two strokes
Os 46 & 61 sf
Second best of os two strokes, beaten only by the fp.
Recently, os alpha four strokes. Have run several sizes and all have been lovely to use. Dare I say it better than the surpass engines.
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There's a place advertising laser cut wood packs for the Flair scout series. Perhaps it's too late. But if you got your money back...
laser cut wood
https://skyhighrc.co.uk/flair-puppeteer-rc-scale-model-aeroplane-laser-cut-balsaply-rib-sets
and plans
https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/flyer21uk
and hardware from Inwood
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14 hours ago, FiddleSticks said:
I guess the only real way to know how they perform is a test flight??
or use your charger to do a discharge/charge cycle (fewer airframes involved etc etc)
in reality, if they're still showing a decent level of charge, then they're probably just fine
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On 25/09/2024 at 00:30, Phil Green said:
I would check the connector, a lot of detergents are salt based and in warm water there would be electrolysis and consequently maybe a slight corrosion of the contacts 🙂
good shout
a liberal dose of contact cleaner is due, perhaps
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remember the engineering mantra hoochy, "close enough's good enough"
the trick is working out what 'close enough' is 😄
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JD I think 4 strokes not only burn some of the oil but they're also less thirsty in the first place. Win win on this front.
martin, you'd want to go one size up from the 52. The 70 surpass would be ideal i think, if you're looking for a second hand motor, or the newer 62 V is nearly the same power but a touch lighter
The 60 something saito also feels about right.
Two stroke glow, they don't burn any of the oil, it's all going out the back. As has been already posted, an extender can get most of it clear.
But how long does clean up take though, really? Five minutes?
Ps confirmed glowphile here
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Graupner super nylons in both sizes - I'd always considered them relatively heavy props.
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I found similar with the 40 Surpass, 11x6 was ok, did have one or two thrown props, it seems happier on a 10x7 or 11x5. The 40 only has the simple air bleed carb.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/root729uk
6 channel £17, doesn't get better. I'm somewhat sure you can remove the cases?
The Orange R615X is out of stock at HK UK store, but in my experience is just as good. Also removable case.
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15 hours ago, Martin McIntosh said:
You will probably laugh at this, but when I was flying F3A around 50 years ago, we mistakenly raked the horns forwards, even though the wing section was symmetrical.
If that was using torque rods on a low winger, then some forward rake of the horns (as in, the torque rods themselves) is correct for that setup.
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If it fires, runs and dies, it feels like a fuel/carb issue. My first bet would be gunk getting into the carb. Old fuel can congeal. Lumps of gunk throw the tuning.
I'd be tempted to pull the carb, remove needles, give it a soak for a few days, and reassemble.
48fs had twin needle carb IIRC, and the needles are not usually loose. They have the internal O ring, the fuel tube dodge won't work? Might be worth changing the O ring for a fresh one.
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Personally, I wouldn't worry about it on that size/type of airframe.
Another alternative, you could (carefully) run a thin bead of silicone sealant along the hinge line, to fill the gap. Mask off the aileron first, mind.
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3 hours ago, Engine Doctor said:
For the "Oily hand society" The FP engines and their clone the Magnum 40 GP wich is equally as good , convert very well to diesel and can swing much bigger props. The small diameter carb give good fuel suction and throttles well as a diesel.
Ah yes - Magnum GP40 - part for part compatible... I have two FP 40s, both with Magnum GP piston, liner and rod, which run just as well as they ever did with all OS parts 🙂
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No, my bed isn't glass. Sounds like a small upgrade may be in order.
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Thanks for link to the vid course PDB. Bookmarked 🙂
I'm just using cheapo PLA on an Ender3 with pre-rolled designs - very early days for me with 3d printing though and yet to truly get to grips with it. The Ender is sloooow but seems pretty capable and is incredible value.
Mine has a very bumpy print bed however which I have struggled to get flat. I'm ok with small area prints but anything bigger than about 5" x 5" starts to get sketchy adhesion.
Any recommendations for a worthwhile upgrade here?
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14 hours ago, Chris Walby said:
need to give it some wellie and the servo is just plodding along...binbag anyone?
I hazard to suggest that a half second throttle response is the least of your worries if you're that marginal. Anyway, the point of the 'slow' is to get the throttle to follow the fastest pickup your engine can manage after an extended idle. It's a last resort of throttle tuning after getting the needles set as good as you can.
Put it another way, what's worse for your bin bag scenario? The 'slow' response (which if set right is as quick as the engine can manage anyhow), or opening the throttle - and getting the sound of silence?
11 hours ago, Simon Lumsdon 1 said:large intake bore is the reason
Smaller carbs do seem to be easier to manage.
One of the best glow engines I have owned, in terms of throttle response, is the old OS 40FP, which has a tiny carb compared to most 40 size engines (and it's only a single needle air bleed, too). It's smaller than some 20s even. And the motor will idle and idle and idle and then snap to full throttle quite happily.
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41 minutes ago, Roger Dyke said:
Thank all for the info.
I usually aim for about a minute or so idling time, but no matter how I fine tune the slow needle, I always have to be careful how fast I increase the throttle for the revs to pick up after that time. Otherwises it's touch and go whether they suddenly quit. From what you say, It sounds quite normal.
By the way, the two engines in question are a Super Custom 61A with a new carb and a Irvine 61 Mk2 (red one). Both are in very good condition with good compression. The props are 13x6 APC.
Sometimes it is difficult to get an acceptable balance between ideal idle setting and ideal pickup setting. Plus engine temperature affects the ignition, as JD8 says a minute is plenty of time for the engine to cool down. And we don't have accelerator pumps so cannot compensate with an extra dollop of fuel when the throttle is gunned...
Servo slow is a pretty good feature to take advantage of on modern radios.
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Never tacho'd an idle for anything other than interest.
Just go for the lowest that you can get it reliable.
1 hour ago, Roger Dyke said:Too quick tends to carry the aircraft down the runway when landing
Reasonable excuse to add some flaps?
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Hold on - it's legal to drop an animal from a model plane?
Guinea pigs with parachutes anyone?
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Another happy customer of RC Japan here. Bought some OS spare carb parts a while back.
On 07/09/2024 at 12:00, Cuban8 said:Are they actually a Japanese based company? Why would they give language options as English and Traditional/Simplified Chinese?
Yes, definitely Japan based!
Speculation... If you're inside Japan you probably get a website in Japanese... If you're outside you get English or Chinese options...?
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SC Engines are back! .15 AP Hornet to 64cc 5 Cyl Radial.
in IC Engines
Posted · Edited by Nigel R
Is this a long lost crate of old production, or brand new metal coming out a re-opened line?
sanyeengine.com website is alive - kind of - and seems to suggest the place getting back off the ground in 2021 (!)