Nigel R
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Posts posted by Nigel R
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Second that, it is excellent for both pinned and mylar/polyprop hinges. I tried dismantling a test piece and found the hinge tore apart before the canopy glue let go of the wood.
With slot type hinges, you can use a 1" section of drinking straw to 'inject' some glue into the hinge slot, before pushing the hinge into place... those aren't going anywhere when they are dried.
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As a couple of asides;
Clark Y has 50% more camber than YH (because of that reflex).
Some other sections similar to the YH -
Naca M6 is very similar with a flat portion to make building easy. http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=m6-il
TSAGI 12 is similar, slightly less camber, same flat underside. http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=tsagi12-il
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NACA 2412 or 2415, if you want a model friendly semi-symmetrical.
Or... A number of full size from the time used Clark YH which was more "semi-symmetrical" than Clark Y, but still an easy build as it had a flat section. Often full size would thicken it up to 15% (or even more).
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you're probably right, the smaller pack will be plenty, and the weight of the pack is more of an issue at this scale.
DW's designs were all good, should make a great flyer 🙂
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18 hours ago, Jonathan M said:
Talking of servos I intend to use 20g Hitec HS85 metal geared servos all round, except for throttle which doesn't need more than a simple low-weight micro, e.g. a spare Emax 8g.
If you're going glow powered it'd be well worth using a servo with rubber bush mounting - not sure many 9g sub micros will have that? The servo will get shaken via airframe and linkage. I use HS81 on most throttle installs as they're the smallest thing I can find with rubber grommets and they all seem to be holding up fine.
What about a small lipo for RX power? (I know I'm usually an eneloop advocate, but...)
IIRC - noting your other thread - acetate sheeting was 1/32" (ish) or 0.5mm. Or you could slice open an empty 2L Pepsi bottle?
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16 hours ago, Dale Bradly said:
I can only assume this is directed at me:
Not especially, but I get why it came across as such. Hope I didn't annoy/offend/upset - that was not the intent.
Back on topic... build options look great, should be a lovely project and end result.
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I quite agree.
Censorship and its use throughout history is a whole different topic...
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14 hours ago, Hoochykins said:
OS 40 FP Max
OS Max 46LA
OS Max 25LASimplest engines of the lot.
Well made.
Run nicely.
Start easily.
These three have one main needle to adjust... simple.
The idle is an air bleed screw, which, give or take, should be set to half way block the hole. It's unlikely to need much adjustment... simple.
Couldn't be a better starting point.
40FP would be my suggestion... strong contender for "best glow engine ever".
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2 hours ago, Jon H said:
The problem is that every
modellerhuman being thinks they are an expert to the point that when a real one shows up they would rather die than loose face and admit they were wrong.Just a slight adjustment there...
See also, confirmation bias.
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I bought my stickers from an ebay seller - don't remember them being very expensive at all. Mine have gone on the underside of the wing (usually). As a bonus, they have a picture of a biplane next to the number.
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To anyone fitting two .19s to the original, or .30s to this bigger one, I wish the very best of luck.
I'm two twins in and a third (still!) on the board, so I'm not the most experienced in flying twins, but I have some experience - my last post on engine choice on this thread will be drawn from that:
Do you want the aircraft to be easy to deal with on one? Or do you want a cut and glide with one out? Critical moment is take off. Anything else you have speed. So. Do you want to be able, if one engine cuts on takeoff, to poke in a dab of rudder and keep it in a shallow climb before making an easy circuit into the landing pattern? Or do you accept you're most likely going straight ahead into whatever happens to be in front of you? Not all of us fly from a straight mile of tarmac with no obstacles. Without enough grunt to keep climbing, I would be straight into a hedge at my site.
More power gives you more options.
I'll stop polluting the build thread now.
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Are you going retracts or fixed?
Thinking of adding flaps? I know the small one doesn't have flaps but this looks plenty big enough to carry the extra gear for both flaps and retracts.
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The wing area is 850 sq in for the mk2 Duellist (revised plan). That was for 2 x 40s.
I make that, 1.16 x 1.16 = 1145 sq in (approx) for this increased version. That's a fair sized wing. On a single engine I'd be thinking 20cc glow or 30cc petrol?
Engines go with cubic increase, 1.16 x 1.16 x 1.16 = 1.56, ie 50% larger.
Are you sure the two 46s will be enough? (now seems like the right time to ask)
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Watching with interest.
I like twins, as my avatar may give away...
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A round zero blood-free airframes here.
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Mike, if you need to send a private message to any of the members on here, (1) hold the mouse pointer over the members name - a small box will pop up after a few seconds, (2) in the new box there is a "message" link you can use.
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Maybe there's something in there to help etch the plastic as well?
Personally I would pony up for canopy glue...
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7 hours ago, Christopher Wolfe said:
Many OS engines (reputedly) peeled their nickel plating, for later years production it was not actually chrome but really ABN 🤫
Given that, one would have to really abuse the engine to damage the liner, even if was nickel plated.
I think I remember reading that the problem was the purity of the nickel during the plating process, abuse or not didn't factor in to it
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17 hours ago, David Davis said:
While searching through my souvenirs I found this OS 26 Surpass. It's a little jewel and I don't think it's ever been run! I'm going to fit it to the Junior 60. I will make up a paxoloin plate for the OS 15 to see whether I can build it the model light enough for it to fly with such a little engine.
I had a Junior with an HP VT25, which had less power than a wet raspberry. Your Surpass 26 will be plenty, as will the old Max 15, although the Surpass will make about 1/10th of the mess, the 15 will leak oil from absolutely everywhere.
Mine was a Flair kit (I think) - no special effort made to keep it light, standard 3 chan radio, solarlac + solartex covering, big heavy balloon wheels. Flew plenty good.
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2 hours ago, Andy Symons - BMFA said:
I am a tad biased, but you cannot get better insurance and levels of support than from the BMFA.
You might be biased... but you're right.
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Flair Scout series were good kits.
I had a Baronette for a while... it was very red. Bit ground loopy.
My dad had an SE5... yaka daka daka.
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4 minutes ago, Glenn Philbrick said:
I have used riolettcustomaerosols 2k acrylic spray cans. They come as 400 ml cans with a twist capsule in the base for the hardener either as clear gloss or Matt or in any colour you need. The downside is that they can only be used for 12 hr's before it sets in the can, although I've heard putting them in the fridge extends the life.
I've had no paint issues and use 10% nitro in my four strokes.
https://www.riolettcustomaerosols.co.uk/
Look interesting. Especially for the spray gear challenged among us (i.e. me).
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New old stock, though... any idea what the shelf life of clearcoat is?
I'm using Rustins, but only for engine bays and so forth. It certainly stinks much about the same as the old 2-pack proofers.
Poly-C gets good press as far as I can tell.
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Don't use it, replace it.
Even if it's fitted to an airframe, there must be a way to get the old outer out and a fresh replacement in.
Burning-in New Servos...?
in General Radio Discussion
Posted
Burning-in is a bit of archaic term, but any electromechanical device with make/break contacts (e.g. the motor in the servo, or in other things, relays, switches, etc) has a wear cycle on the contacts to which 'burn in' might be considered applicable.
That aside, the bathtub curve is a real thing, and an hour of soak test will give you a high degree of confidence that you have one of two things, (1) a proven bit of kit or (2) melted plastic and wiring.