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Simon Knight
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Posts posted by Simon Knight
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My latest Guillows RC conversion, the Zero, to complement my SBD3. No painting involved this time, just tissue paper (including the canopy and cowl) and printed on tissue paper for the roundels and tail marking. The flaps and gear outline are printed on clear sticker paper, but should have done it on tissue. Lesson for next time.
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Ok, so an update. I have been let down by the supplier and although paying for the Banshee, turns out they don't have it in stock and there is no planned delivery from VQ till next year? I can't find one elsewhere so what to do?
I decided to try and fly my Balsa USA Pup last week, not flown since October 2018. Took ages to start but did and I got 5 minutes of flight. After that one, she would not start again despite my best efforts including changing the glow plug. Removed the Saito 45 Special and benched it and still could not start it. Tried loosening the bolts to clean it up and check the tappet etc but they started to round so stopped.
Now I have an ARTF Pup and a spare 60. So Wednesday afternoon/evening I remodeled the inside of the Pup engine bay to fit the 60 in. Did it just and then took it to the field on Thursday. The good news is the motor worked well and the Pup flew again after over 2 years of hanging in the garage. So what started off disappointing ended as a good news story; though I don't have a shiny new plane.
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16 hours ago, David Ovenden said:
The VQ A-24 Banshee version of the Dauntless has a nice colour scheme in my opinion. Look forward to seeing the build and finished model here on the forum Simon.
Yes, the Dauntless scheme doesn't hit the mark for me and I'd want to change it which would ruin the point of an ARTF. A nice Army green scheme is much more appealing. Once she's ready I'll be posting in the New Models thread ?
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12 minutes ago, gillyg1 said:
Have a look at " warbird replicas" all designed around 52/61 fs.
Currently the only ones available are the spit and mustang, although it probably says sold out on the site.
Give Richard Wills ( the owner) a phone.
There is a current forumn on this site for the mustang, on going, at the moment
I've had several of his kits and can recommend them.
Can be electric also
Flew mine on a asp 61 fs.?
Thanks gillyg1, it was the Warbird Replicas Yak 9 that the motor has come from. Ripped the gear out again last week (too many bumps in our field) so felt it was time for a change.
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Thanks all. I'll be using the ASP .61 which has been in my Acro Wots with great success (they recommended a .70-.80) and also my Warbirds Yak 9 which it coped with very well. I've gone for the A24 Banshee, manual states a .60-.70 FS so hoping that will do fine. I'll let you know!
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I like those, and in a theme of my last build/post with Guillows RC conversion ?
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Probably Artf, I’m after a quick win and got other builds on the go. Thanks
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Evening great Oracle!
I have a .61 FS nitro engine and electrics looking for a new home and would love to have another warbird, WW1 or 2. Would prefer a wide track gear due to our strip if WW2. Any recommendations please?
Thanks ??
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Having had a successful maiden and further flight last Thursday, I decided to spend a crazy lockdown Friday night adding the much needed dive brakes (aesthetically, not working) to my Guillows SBD3 RC conversion. Makes a difference ?
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My latest lockdown build, a Guillows RC conversion with a bit of artistic license with the decals. I know the dive brakes are missing, sorry.
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Thanks Gents. The electronics are made up of the Flite Test Power Pack A which came recommended wit the kit from The VMC:
- (1) Motor - Radial 1806 2280kV
- (1) Flite Test 20A w/XT-30 Connector
- (4) Servos - Flite Test ES9051 5g Servo
- (1) Y-Lead (30cm)
- (2) Extensions (20cm)
- (4) Linkage Stoppers
- (2) Propellers (6x3)
- (1) Allen Wrench (1.5mm)
- (1) Phillips Screwdriver
It took me a while as the instructions are just for rubber power and the laser cut parts weren't labelled so it took more time and some trial and error to work out what bits were for what. It is prettier on the outside than what lies beneath. I used a pull system for the rudder and push rod for elevator for ease.
She's covered in film with tissue paper and some use of Vector board just for some resilience on the planned belly landings. All up weight with 3s battery is 297g and the prop has got some pull so I think she should go ok.
The kit came with both the bubble and car-door canopy option.
I've put a few photos in my album which shows some of the build stages.
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I've not posted for quite a while but it doesn't mean I've been slacking. I completed my Bluebottle Squadron Typhoon from VMC this week with added electrics. Hopefully get to maiden her in the not too distant future
Edited By Simon Knight on 16/01/2021 15:05:54
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Martin, nice to see it has all come together well and you've had several successful flights with her. Had a look on the Danish site. I have 2 more Baronette kits just in case I had an accident I couldn't recover from. Good to have some spares. I also have the Legionnaire, SE5a , couple of Puppeteers (Mk1 and 2) and a Harvard for variety. Just need space, time and money to build them.
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I12fly, I have fixed my axle and let the wheels rotate independently. What I have done however is tightened them on as tight as I can without restricting their rotation. This seems to stop the wheel moving along the axle and creating a random toe out/toe in effect. On take off, I raise the throttle slowly until the tail lifts and then apply rudder, usually right and as soon as she is off the ground, she seems to fly her self nicely. I try not to have any form of cross wind though as the 3 wings do catch it quite well which can add to the excitement. I wonder if the short fuselage creates the challenge too, because neither of my DV11 seem to suffer anywhere near as much twist in take off.
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I12fly, I have fixed my axle and let the wheels rotate independently. What I have done however is tightened them on as tight as I can without restricting their rotation. This seems to stop the wheel moving along the axle and creating a random toe out/toe in effect. On take off, I raise the throttle slowly until the tail lifts and then apply rudder, usually right and as soon as she is off the ground, she seems to fly her self nicely. I try not to have any form of cross wind though as the 3 wings do catch it quite well which can add to the excitement. I wonder if the short fuselage creates the challenge too, because neither of my DV11 seem to suffer anywhere near as much twist in take off.
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Thanks Jeff, yes Voss; would have been Kempf but I couldn’t get the lettering right so kept it simple.
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Very pleased that with such a lovely weather day today, I managed to get the Baronette airborne successfully for just shy of 20 minutes (not in one go). She flew as well as before and managed all of the usual loops rolls and low passes. The repairs held up and I think she looks as good now as when first built.
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Hope you got some flying Paul.
Well my aircraft is in one piece again but not yet flown. A couple of pictures of her finished and back with the Flight ready for the better weather. The day of the pictures was lovely but I didn't have time to get to the flying site.
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That has been painful! I’ve been trying to find the right size nylon bolts to fix the model back together and have failed totally to get the exact match. Definite Imperial as neither M4 or M5 are right, it’s somewhere between. I even looked at raiding some of my other Flair kits and replacing them with Metric, but none of them fitted (7 different kits including 2 Baronettes). Either previous owners have done the same or my first one was older than the others.
Well I decided to use M4 bolts with retainer nuts fixed to the original ones and it all seems very secure. Electrics checked and ready for test flight...just need the weather to get better now.
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Engine refitted after successful soldering repair on the ESC and test bench run.
A liitle more subtle bending of the cowl and it fits nicely now. You'd never know it had crashed, well almost.
Before I can fit the wings on again I'm waiting for new nylon bolts. The original 2 sheared which I think saved the rest of the model from worse damage. I had considered replacing with metal bolts I have but have thought better of it, just in case.
Edited By Simon Knight on 04/10/2019 08:06:32
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Thanks kc, it was the careful combination of some cardboard on the garage floor and gentle encouragement from my nylon hammer to get the main shape back then fingers and screwdriver handle to get the curve back in. It’s not perfect but then are any real cowls?
Edited By Simon Knight on 03/10/2019 22:01:43
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Ok so the latest update...
If you have checked out my album for this model you'll have noticed that I am writing a day or 2 behind actual progress.
Having competed the covering and various patching up, I used the trusted Halfords grey primer.
I have decided to go for a more standard scheme for the repaint, and mainly because of the various paints I have available. So, a light blue underside and struts (believe it should be turquoise or something like that?)
I have painted the gear in blue and solid olive (ish) green and tried to weather the wheels a little.
The main covering is going to be streaked olive green over a light linen colour...saved them weight and money, saves me weight and money. Then, to top it all off, rather than linseed oil for a gloss finish I applied a paint gloss finish. Cross Pattee are solarfilm on a painted white background.
With the wing repair completed and the upper and centre rejoined, I now just need to sort the rudder, resolder the ESC (crash culprit...I hope) and work a better way of mounting the engine to the model to avoid rubbing on the motor.
All said and done, whilst i was very disappointed with the crash I am quite happy how she has turned out. More pictures to follow when completed and hopefully flown in the next 2 weeks subject to Hurricanes (not the WW2 type).
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You can see from the dented cowl that the impact was hard.
Explains why the centre wing snapped where it did under twisting moment from the upper and lower wings which are amazingly damage free (relatively).
Fuselage broke at the weakest point, that being where it is attached to the box frame, but n easy fix and some added bracing.
Some metal bashing sorted the cowl and once all glued and secure, the useful HK white covering has done the job:
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Well it looks like I may have solved the mystery and it has added a pre car packing check. So all the electrics work and had a temporary power loss in flight leading to the stall but all working again when in a heap in the field. The comment from kc made me have closer look at all the connections and guess what? The positive wire solder on the EC3 plug was weakened and with a very gentle tug came away! I therefore surmise that somehow in the manoeuvre the lead separated creating a temporary power loss and when the model tipped in the connection was made again. I always pull the plugs when separating the battery so hence not noticing the looser wire
Time for a new plug and some better soldering! Something else to check on the other models before I load them up for the flying site; once the weather significantly improves!
I’ll put some pics up of the fix when I get some more time. Looking so much better already and I think she’ll fly again after some more tweaking.
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in All Things Model Flying
Posted · Edited by Simon Knight
My latest build is the Guillow's BF109, and as you'd expect these days, yes i have made it RC. I've done the Spitfire, Zero and Dauntless now and do very much enjoy building and flying them.