richard dalgleish
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Posts posted by richard dalgleish
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23 hours ago, Nick Somerville said:
Looks great Richard. What’s hauling it around and which retracts?
Zenoah 45 and Sierra retracts.
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For inspiration
My 1/6 scale Bates Hellcat. 80" span, flies like a trainer.
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Arrows Bearcat for sale, reasonable condition for a foamy.
43" wingspan, fully working condition flaps and retracts. Will include two 3S 2200 lipos.
Asking £75
Collection only from North Staffordshire.
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Balsa USA 1/4 scale Nieuport 28 complete with Zenoah 26 engine. 80" wing span, tex covered with rib tapes.
No servos / Rx included.
Good condition, only 3 years old and flown infrequently. Engine is reliable and a good runner.
Collection only from North Staffordshire.
Asking £575.
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1 hour ago, Ron Gray said:
I had one (GA30) fitted to my 82” ESM Hurricane swinging an 18x8W prop and it was fine.
What did the Hurricane weigh?
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What size prop do they turn Jon?
Would it fly an 80" Jerry Bates Hellcat, its been flying on a Zenoah 45.
Regards
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The British Waterplane Association held a few meetings there, flying off one the lakes at the bottom of the fields. Seem to remember the museum had a good cafe/restaurant too. Late 80s early 90s.
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2 hours ago, Peter G Simpson said:
One final suggestion.... not wanting to hijack your thread Gary...
I always struggled with balancing aircraft, particularly low wingers. It's easy to identify CofG on the plan, but once the model is complete not so easy. Secondly supporting the aircraft during the process of balancing. So for my latest builds I incorporate a brass tube into the wing at the correct CofG. The tube passes through the wing so that I can easily string up the model and check the CofG whenever I make any changes to the installation.
In the below picture, note the component tray on the top of the cowl at the same position where ballast will be placed. I can then load up the tray until the aircraft hangs level and cycle the gear to check shift in CofG.
Thats a great idea. I might incorporate that on my next build.
I have the same model just recently completed awaiting a test flight. How do you find the landings with the BT Mk1A, does it have a tendandcy to nose over.
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My Taylor Hurricane had a similar tank position to the carb, Laser 120.
It ran perfect for 12 years until i retired the model, no siphoning at all.
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Weather permitting, I'll come.
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Talking to some jet flyers at the weekend, these Electron retracts are considered the best when it comes to electric ones.
Home > Electron Retracts (electron-retracts.com)
If you want air operated go with Sierra.
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Thanks for replies,
Think I'll go ahead and order some. They will be going in s Brian Taylor BF110
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1 hour ago, EarlyBird said:
Yes they are the ones
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Hello
Just asking to see if anyone has any experience with using Electron Retracts.
Thanks
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19 hours ago, Danny Fenton said:
Alan to be honest i have no idea. I have tried to do as others have suggested, i will run it like this, if it breaks again, i will re-think. I have a 5065 Turnigy that would drop straight in....... only kidding.....
Danny
A nice Laser 70 will solve all your problems😊
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The jack will be fine Danny, used them on most of my models of late.
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Hi Jon
What Laser would you now recommend for the BT 70" Spitfires and the Hurricane? I thought the 120 would of been a good seller.
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9 hours ago, RottenRow said:
Richard,
Straight from the plan...
CofG is at the rear edge of the upper wing fuel tank (ie where the rear cabane strut attaches to the fuel tank).
Control movements, measured at trailing edges: rudder 1 1/4" each way, elevators 1" up and down, ailerons 1 1/8" up 5/16" down.
Let me know if you need any other information.
Brian.
Thanks Brian, just what i was looking for.
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Just wondering if anyone has the Dennis Bryant Tiger Moth plan. I'm looking for the CoG position and surface throws.
Thanks
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1 hour ago, Ron Gray said:
My 155, in a Taylor Craft, runs very clean and that was even before I changed to the low oil content fuel so I’m surprised yours is a bit ‘dirty’.
Wonder if the bottom end is too rich on mine.
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Just after some thoughts on this. I flew the Taylor Typhoon yesterday for the first time with the Laser 155.
I noticed after each flight some oil/fuel from the spinner along the top of the cowl, so im guessing coming from the front bearing. Also there was quite an oil slick out of the exhaust which i wasn't expecting on the low oil fuel.(Laser 120 runs very clean) Its a new 155, the fuel tank is in the wing, so its the correct height for the carb.
The engine runs a treat by the way as you would expect.
Regards
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Just some feedback, converted my Dynatron starter for Lipo use. Nothing fancy, just replaced the crocodile clips with an XT60 connector.
Used it yesterday, using a 3S 2200 pack.
3 starts of a Laser 120 and 2 starts of a Zenoah26, and it only used 8% of the pack. I may buy a smaller pack.
I also tried it on a 4S pack, starting a Laser 155 last week, seemed to have a lot more go on the 4S. Both batteries definitely work better than the 12V gel battery.
Richard
ps only down side is, do i leave the Lipo charged after use or do i need to keep putting it back into storage charge?
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18 hours ago, Simon Clark said:
For what it's worth, I have two Just Engines geared starters. One is the 4:1 gear ratio version with standard sized spinner cone and the other is the 6.5:1 version with the large spinner cone. I use both with 4S LIPOs that are detachable and held with a velcro strap and connected with an XT60 connector. The larger one is used for 20-33cc two strokes (petrol and glow) and the smaller on is used for everything else. With 4S they both have bags of power and work really well. I have tried the smaller on with 3S and this is OK in most cases BUT it does not spin the engine as quick and for one (and only one) of my smaller glows, it does not start as easily due to the lower speed.
I charge the batteries before each session and discharge to storage level between sessions. Do not be tempted to use old and knackered batteries as a starter actually puts quite a load on the battery - it is only in use for a few seconds and in a whole day of flying will only run for a very few minutes but when it is running, it takes a lot of current, so you don't need a particularly high capacity but you do need a reasonable C rating. At the moment, I am using Turnigy 4S 1400 65C to good effect.
Simon
Simon
How much does it take out of the 1400 pack during a days flying. I'm just about to ditch the 12V gel battery for a lipo, and just trying to decide what size pack to buy.
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Long shot this, but does anyone know if Sanwa will or are bringing out a replacement for their aging SD10G transmitter?
I'm looking at upgrading/replacing my set to a more modern radio.
I've been using Sanwa for the last 30+ years so would like to stick with them, looking at other makes of radio the choice is a bit bewildering.
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The future of ic engines in our hobby.
in IC Engines
Posted · Edited by richard dalgleish
We should have less of these doom and gloom topics, IC engines and building seem to be on the up from what i can see.