Jump to content

FEDERICO GILLI

Members
  • Posts

    185
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by FEDERICO GILLI

  1.   Hi John,  I used the supplied tank with a Sullivan petrol bung. If you go back in the first few postings you'll find loads of pictures and a detailed description. Plumming as well need to be tygon plastic resistent to petrol. Petrol is better than glow is you have a damp shed as is less igroscopic than glow. The servo I used are ceap enough SPRING RC high torque (9kg) analog unit for all control surfaces, Futaba 3001 have been used for throttle and chocke. Next time I'll go to the patch with the mew gull I'll bring the camera with me. Regards,  Happy Easter.  Federico
  2. Hi Les,   I've always been very surprise how people put a lot of efford in feeding information in blogs and so doing provide valuable information to others. I guess this was my pay back! I'm delighted has been of help and hopefully before adding the last full stop we will get more happy ending stories and few more handy fix for the ongoing issue. Will be nice to be able to conclude with an album of our model on the respective grass stips! Mybe we can star a Mew club. All the best   Federico
  3. Hello guys,   I'm been buisy with my mew gull so I did not get the time to fly the raptor. Any luck with yours?   Regards,   Federico
  4. Hi all,   thank's a lot. It is indeed a lovely model and I'm thinking in the future to build the small jamara one if I get my hands over a kit. Is I said it is not the most easy friendly model but after all is the price we have to pay for very scale proportion and shapes. I'll give it an other good few of  flight and if I do not mess up I'll start working on the cockpit and scales details. I'll try to remember the camera next time I'll bring it to the patch. Good look with your mew gulls. All the best.   Federico
  5. Hi all,   eventually the day arrived and with a grey sky an very little wind I decided to go for it. Before I tell you how it go I just want to say that I purchased the April issue of RC Model World where the percival got a decent enough review. The reviewer give some tips about control surfaced deflection that confirm some of mine and other blogger findins, this add a bit of confidence in the approching flying session. So sunday was a decent day and withouth forgetting the potrol can I reached the patch. After the usual safety checks and with my roto 25 running at a smooth idle I trhottled up gradually keeping full up elevator until a decen speed was achieved (I dislike to take off air carrier style). The mew gull lift off  nicely and gained safe hight in few seconds. After a couple of cirquits and two clicks of down elevator to achieve a gentle drop on strait flight I tried the roll loop cuban eight split s, bunt etc.  Rolls are axial and with 15mm up and 7.5 mm down the aileron feeling is pretty good. As per the review throttleing up to full chat does not increase the speed much but with the roto singing away I could pull any size of loop I liked! Quite impressive! no rudder oe aileron correction required in the mild wind. The elevetor is quite responsive and during flight more than enough to pull decent 4 points loops, not very scale-ish anyway. I did not try any silly low speed direction changes so I did not esperience any tip stall but mind you I never really let the gull slow down too much especially withouth a decen head wind. After 15 min flight the timer went off and I settle for a landing. Speed was kept  a bit too high but neverless I flight the gull home. Not the best of the landing with a bounce, after this I thought I was safe but instead the plane stop on it's nose despite my full elevator. The instructor firs landing few weeks backwas similar with the result of damaging landing gear and wing, this time instead no damage or bending was founded. The second take off was attempted and trying to keep the plane on the ground even longer resulted in a damage to my wooden 18x10 prop. Good job I had a spare as it is not the usual size you can borrow from a mate at the field. Ok a bit wiser I took off for the second time still using all the runway to maximise speed and look. More aerobatic confirm that this plane is not only good looking but also fun to fly. The second landing was much better, very smooth no bounce at all but again at the very end of the landing the plane nose over withouth damages. Just a note to say that I did move the wheels forwad a good bit but still not enough. Third time lucky... tatke off good, aerobatic ok... landing... This time I came down trying to bleed a bit more speed but once I wase one foot from the ground I flared achieving a very nice three pointer and rolling to stop maintaining full elevator. No nose over and resulting round of applause!! Three pointer are the way to go for me but do not expect to glide the mew gull in! I'm very chuffed indeed, the plane and the motor are a very good match. I'll fit the cowl and I think also the spats once modified. The article say that is for experienced pilot but as I do not classified in this category I'm even happier. It would have been fantastic if seagull had fitted scale flaps adding to the look and avoiding me to get even more white air at each landing!      To the next sortie, All the best   Federico  
  6. Hi,   I got the plane in the car yesterday, the pach grass was very nice and short, the wind blowing mildly in the righ direction, perfect conditions..... no fuel! Got the glow fuel for my second model and not the petrol can, probabily I'm not tune in yet on that red can. So as the patch is not at my doorsteps I decided not to bother to go back and I just had a good few flights with my saphir. Quite a good session but a real pity I was really looking forward solo the mew gull. Anyway I'm sure I'll get an other chance. speaking about spats I think there are a couple of options; one is more complicate and I have describe it in one of the precedent posting. substantially this will require cut the spat leg in order to create two pats, one will stay screwed to the existind mounting blocks the other will be attached to the wheel aluminium support. The gap will be then covered with flexible material. The second is much more basic, this will retain the current set uo but the front of the spat will be carved out as per real flying example while the spat bottom part behind the wheels will also be remove to leave as much clearance as possible. As I've not took off the plane myself yet I cannot gauge the nose over issue so I'll decide if I need to change the wheel forward position after my first take off. From Sea Gull point of view they do not reconise an issue so no mods on the wing design are in the pipe line, so I've been told.   Regards,   Federico  Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 22/03/2010 09:29:24
  7. Hi, here my news on the mewgull. In the last several weeks I,ve been in contact with SMC and J Perkins. After a number of e-mails JP very kindly offer me to replace my wings providing I'll send back my own! Beside the postal charge in sending back a large item I could not justify cutting an almost good wing just to post it back. So I agreed with Nick from SMC, who assist me in this dealing from the start, to get some 4.87mm (6swg) piano wire and try the modification. I also got a piece of mahogany from a friend and I carry out the mods as per attached pictures. I decided not to cut a groove in the wing yet, I'll do if the mod stand up a few landings. Once the modification is tested and  succesfull I'll tackle the spats modification.   Cut outs on wing top, these can be covered after and they will be invisible as below the fuselage. The measure are to help anyone would likt to udertake the mod.     Mahogany blocs bottom has been shaved to follow wing shape. 5 min epoxy has been used. The blochs fit between ribs and spar to give 4 points of contact plus the bottom sheeting. Blocks are just over 1" thick.   6swg (4.87mm) wire has been a pain to bend but using a big vive and an heavy hammer I goth the two spot on. The 90 deg bends need more refining to follow the shape of the wing so at the end are both over 90 deg. to keep things square.   The block could have been a bit deeper but this is what I manage to get.     I decided to not to cut the wing surface to embedd the piano wire untill I'm happy with the modification. The difference in diameter from the original legs does not look to be an issue once the three grub screws are tight up.   I left the portion of piano wire feeding through the oleo a bit longer than the original. I'm planning to let the wheel protrude from the spat a bit more than original design hoping that the extra clerance will help.   The weather forecast for this week end are pretty bad so I do not have huge hopes to try my mods. Does any one had a go with the mew gull at the flight site?    Regards,   Federico
  8. About the controversey I had no idea. For the landing gear I still hope I get some positive feedback from the supplier, failing that I can only get short of 4mm piano wire. No way I going to find hardwood so thick I will use doubled up 1" marine plywood. I'll wait an other while before starting the fix as I am curious to see if seagull come up with an alternative solution. Best Regards,   Federico 
  9. Also if at times I think that reviews could be a bit more tough with the manufactures to try to get more attention from them, and I had pass my thought to the ed. in a separate occasion, I truly believe that the reviewer are doing a very decent job. I think that as in any other aspect of our life we tend to remember only the times we disagree on something rather then the more numerous time we actually agreed on. An other aspect I would like to mention at a very personal point of view is that the gentlemen testing the planes are on the 99% of the cases accomplished flyer with years of experience on setting up and fly any kind of model, I cannot say the same for myself. So my good landing might be a rough one for them. This I believe add a different prospective to the level of abuse they might put they test model under. All in all I'm quite happy with the reviews and I have total confidence that if the ed tell me the tests are fair are actually fair. Could be a good think maybe to open new tread on popular models where people that actually has build and flow the same will add their list of pro and cons without long building description. Maybe then the one that honestly appear to highlight big manufaturing / design issue could be published in a little feature every so often to add value to the isolate modellers complains.   Best Regards,   Federico      
  10. model finished bar apply some solartrim. I got airelones wires in the wrong spot that's why so hard to put is, fixed that. The battery has been located in front of the tail servos and the cg is circa 1-1/2" forward the landing legs. I think I'm going to try this CG as I'm paranoic to thave this type of mofel tail heavy. The servo on the tail sound good if match with the weight reduction on the stabilyser, H9 should have done this day one. With the normal set up I could not avoid a bit of assimmetry on the two elevator at the fully down position but theyu are fine at fully up. I cannot see myself bunting this model anyway so I think I can survive with it. The left wing root do not go perfectly flushed with the fuse once pushed in towards the trailing side, Thightening the wing bolt mitigate the issue but it is not a greath job from a manufacturer as H-9 would like us to believe. Overhall the look is good even without the cowl, as I said I'll carve it out ony if I'm happy with the supertigre 51 at the front.  Wheather permitting I might bring it out on sunday for a test flight. Regards, Federico
  11. I got mine in late september   when did you get yours? At SMC they told me that seagull stopped deliveries for a while probabily to get the issue looked in but I have not find out yet if your alluminium support is what they came off with?   Regards, federico
  12. Exacly that!   thanks Leon for the pitcure is the same as I imagine. I've rang then places this morning and the thikest gauge of piano wire I can get is  5/32" circa 3.5mm I guess is is not enough. I'll keep trying, looks like an issue to get it shipped from UK too. I guess the honorable thing for Seagull or perkins should be supply the hardwood blocks and preformed piano wire to the mewgull customers free of charge to mend the poor design material quality. This still does not solve the spat issue.   Regards, Federico
  13. Cheers, the existing one is 5.5mm.   Regards,   Federico
  14. last night I got one of the wing copleted with fixed flap in neutral position and the airelon servo. As happen to me if you glue in place the flap three position plate before treading the aileron servo cable through the wing it make it quite hard to get it done after. I have futaba 3001 in and the cross shape harm is just about long enough to clear the servo pit cover but the amount of movement is more than enough for well above the reccomended values. I  hope to finish the second wing tonight and stick on the underside of the wing and tail plane some yellow solartrim to help with orientation. I need than to asseble the wings and balace the model. I'm not so sure about following the instruction to the letter and fitting the battery far back.... any suggestions?   Regards,   Federico 
  15. Hi Leon,   will be possible for you to e-mail a picture of your modification. I've not clear where the new hardwood block sit exactly, can you also tell me the piano wire thickness in mm? I was thinking myself to engineer a similar solution with hardwood blocks glued on the main ribs where the wing join not at the leading hedge but in line with the esisting blocks. I will use the existing saddle where it is and add a second one on the new blocks. I think I will cut the top leg of the spat similar to the real plane, create a gap (to be wrapped with some sort of tape or  material), and fix the spat to the aluminium wheel bracket.  The hole at front and bottom of the spat can also be enlarged to provide more clerance for the wheel and the heel can be moved a little bit forward. I do not think downsize the wheels is a good idea if the runway is grass.   All the best. Federico
  16. Last night I got a good look to the one landing damage. As I feared the bended leg was only the pit of the iceberg. A good portion of the so called hard wood block was floating loose in the wing and I got it out via the airelon servo hole. The hard wood block is actually made of two parts sandwiched together with very little glue. The more inner part is the one that broke off so from the external of the wing  the damage is not visible and the only indication beside the rattle is that the steel leg has more play than it should. I'm not surprised but I'm very disappointed now I need to fiure out how to cut open the wing to fix it. I sent an e-mail to perkins but I've got no replay yet and I'm not holding my breath for it. I think the least they can do is to supplt to the mew gull owner a set of proper piano wire legs to replace the soft one supplied with the kit. By the way I have not idea where to source this gauge of piano wire locally. It is a real pity that a such nice model have to be plagued with such a silly issue. I'm sure a lot of people got put off becouse of it and the lack of follw-up by perkins and seagull. If you have any good advise how to takle thi repair job please let me know. I really look forward to fix it and have few flyghts with the mew gull. I'm attaching a picture so you can see what I'm talking about.   Best Regards,   Federico      
  17. Ok! Eventually the big day down yesteday. The mewgull was checked over ta the fuield before installing the wing. The roro 25 came with a bench run test certificate so not having touch any needle I was confident enough to get it going. Indeed having undertood the correct procedure the engine started to a very solid idle. Checked the throttle cut I restart the engine and run through most of a tank worthed circa 15/20min. At this point my fellow clubmenber and instructor Ralph was ready to have a go. The wind was mild but unfortunately did not align with the longer side of the grass patch. The model flight surfaces were re-checkd for correct direction and the plane was released. As soon the take off run started the moane nose start tipping despite I had already correct the down thrust at the firewall. Ralph was quick on the stick and with some elevator the plane levelled. Few more meter saw the mewgull airborn. Having gained a safe hight with few clicks of trim the plane was flying good. Stall was checked showing the feared tip dropping but we did not push the envelope so far and looking at it as a spectator I cannot judje how bad it was. In ferness did not look too nasty at hight. At this point I got the tranmitter and I flew few very sedate circuits without trying anything fancy. The impression was good but boys it is fast! You need a lot of sky and this with the throttle stick almost at idle! We did not thest the full speed at all. Ralph took control again to start a couple of landing runs, with the thr trim fully down and with almost no wind the long runway looked small! Eventually the mewgull set in with a bump and on the second touch down it slow down but dit tip on it's nose. The prop was unscrached but as feard one of the legs was bend backwards.  I hope is only the metal and no damage is present in the wing but I cannot say yet. Overall I was very happy and a bit relieved, the mewgull is probabily still aoutside of my legue but I'm planning to try take off and landing myself soon. The plane look nicely balanced at circa 1" forward the instruction point with no lead added. The engine is probabily oversised for the mew gull but it might work better if I find myself in a tight corner. Forgetting the disappointing landing gear hence the impossibility to fit the lovely spats the overall impression in the air was fantastic and the sound of the roto 25 just right. I just want to thanks Ralph for his much appreciated help especially as he is still recovery by the shock of flying my SM79 trimotor a couple of year ago!!!   Regards,   Federico
×
×
  • Create New...