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Tom Major

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  1. Tom Major
    Just packed all my tools for today. Operation was successful and patient survived . 9 out of 12 screws were damaged even more during removal, but all came out nicely. Slotted them first with rotary tool, then applied some heat to the crankcase around them and removed with flat screwdriver. Exhaust however was removed by tapping small T bit into rounded heads. I can't remember the details from taking apart other FP engine, but will anyone be able to confirm that crankshaft just slides out easily? I expected I will have to knock it out fr some reason... Also had a quick look at model fixings website and it looks like they have all I want and much more. Will be great to hear that little engine running after over 5 years. Once again thank you all for help . PS. Nice to see some members still hang around here .
  2. Tom Major
    Martin, I always do, but in this case there is no tool that would fit those heads as they are long gone. I got it in that state and never really cared, but now attempt to run it would just cause massive damage - saw all kinds of dirt in the carb, from sawdust to metal particles. I'm gonna try few of those ways soon. Cheers.
  3. Tom Major
    Steve, you're right, they all were cross head screws. I have all tools needed to disassemble the engine, I am just stuck with them screws. I tried few penetrating sprays and tapping to start with, but to no effect. Forgot however about heat. If it did work with bearings, I am hoping it will be enough for screws too . Jrman thanks for reminder about gasket paper, used that for motorcycles, but wouldn't think it could be used for model engines as well. Sometimes obvious things are not so obvious :D. Will give JE the call, they might have few other bits I could use but have not seen on their website... Denis All good pointers, option with dremel and then application of heat sounds quite promissing. Appreciate your time and effort to reply gents, thank you.
  4. Tom Major

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  5. Tom Major
    Hi folks. I am getting ready to build my 3rd Sharky, aiming to start during weekend. I had one powered by Cox Golden Bee and one by CF2812E. I love this model for its bullet proof, simple construction and agility, hence next one will be my test platform for small engines - Cox and the like. My previous models were built without any major modifications, except for 3 channel control. I wonder however, how would Sharky perform with added ailerons and flat wing? I seem to remember fairly few examples on here, but not sure if it has been done? If so, could I have some feedback on mentioned mods please? There is also one thing I am not sure about - if I go for flat wing, should I reduce 'factory fitted' downthrust? Thanks in advance for any pointers. PS Here is a picture of my two models, of which one was recovered after meeting with a tree.....   Edited By Tom Major on 22/11/2017 22:07:56
  6. Tom Major
    That's precisely what I did Bert.
  7. Tom Major
    Today I went to The Model Basement and found out they not only stock Contest 10 by Model Technics, but also that they can get any fuel ordered to the shop . Might be handy information for some local folks that like me, look for local supplier. What's even better, they do have a balsa wood and quite a lot of modelling bits and bobs. Just shows once again that stock shown on the website is not always up to date, but in this case it is very nice surprise. That's my problem sorted then, now need to build test platform for my engines (most likely Sharkface build log in on the way ).
  8. Tom Major
    Is any particular brand of air tool oil better than others? Or can I just use any stuff that I find in say halfrauds or machine mart? I know I can get gun oils online, but would rather go to the shop.
  9. Tom Major
    I bought few airtight food containers, one for each engine, so I can keep the collection in some sort of an order. Engines will receive final clean and then bath in after run oil, then will be wrapped in thick plastic bag and stored in said boxes, which will be kept in bigger air tight container. I go for ARO as this is the most available lubricant for me, can get it tomorrow straight after work. Hope this solution will work. Once again thanks everyone for pointers.
  10. Tom Major
    Ah I see. Thought about it but wasn't sure so preferred to ask . Thanks a lot.
  11. Tom Major
    Thank you all for input. Engine doctor - thanks a lot for heads up about 3 in 1 oil. That was precisely what I used to oil up my engines cause I didn't have anything else at the moment. After that I've read that 3 in 1 is more likely to seize my engines. I will pick up some air tool or after run oil tomorrow and clean them again. So far I don't have any Cox engine with plastic parts on it, but it's good to know to keep them dry. Manish - 30 grade oil? Edited By Tom Major on 19/11/2017 12:17:04
  12. Tom Major
    Hi folks. Not long ago I finished restoration of my few Cox engines. I plan to give them a test run and then put them into storage while I wait for my next patient to arrive - a plain bearing PAW 1.49 cc. which I just won on fleabay for under 15 quid . How to go about long term storage of these little engines? Not sure if I will put them into any models (unless I find ready to use Sharkface that is...), but would like to keep them nice and fresh for years to come. Same goes for fuel, but then again - is there any point in storing glow fuel long term? Apparently it does lose its potential over the time? Thanks in advance for any pointers. PS. My recent searches revealed terrible fact of many shops shutting down/cutting on stock, much less available items on ebay etc. It's horrific how few years can change everything....
  13. Tom Major
    Thank you Stephen. I called The Model Basement, Hobby and Moor and I think it was Dynomodels. Hobby and Moor is closed now, remaining two have fuels for cars but nothing I could run Cox engines on. Will check the rest though. Regards
  14. Tom Major
    Thank you all for input, I appreciate it. John - thanks a lot. I didn't come across Leeds Model shop before and I must say I'm quite impressed. They even have diesel engines in stock . Jon - I know it's little low nitro content, but I ran all my Cox engines on it and they were absolutely fine. I am not sure if I will get back to building and flying aircraft, but deffo want to restore all my engines and am on research about milling machines and lathes - Firefly .46 is still on my list to do . Basically I just want some juice to test the engines, that's it. RC Plane Flyer - always had that problem when visiting the shop . Edited By Tom Major on 12/11/2017 13:20:43
  15. Tom Major
    Hello. I am looking for fuel to suit Cox and OS engines. After few years of absence in the hobby I am shocked how low the stock is everywhere (or perhaps how poor my search skills are...). So the question to you gents - where can I get Model Technics Formula Irvine 10% or something similar? I live in Chesterfield, so wouldn't mind trip to the local shop, but if there is no other option, I'd like to order a gallon online. Another shock was when visitng Blackburn Models - they only sell 4 gallons. I don't have a clue how to convince mrs that I need to spend over 100 quid to run Golden Bee for few minutes... Regards Tom
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