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Ady Hayward

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Posts posted by Ady Hayward

  1. Hi Dick,

    That flight must have been awesome. You have a good many envious followers now. Your choice of subject is fantastic as you just don't see 2 seater model Spitfires flying. I wish you all the best with your build and hope you enjoy it as much as we have.

    Just remember there is no such thing here as a stupid question, and we are all here to help if you need some help with the build.

    Adrian

  2. Hi Bucksboy,

    That was exactly the method I used on my Ju88​. It works well and I can definitely say that with flaps and gear down the Ju would need power to keep airspeed up even on a 20-30 degree glideslope so when flared there are only a couple of seconds before the aircraft is too slow to fly so kangaroo style landings just did not happen.

    Adrian

  3. Hi Brian, A very nice build of a fighter that is not seen very often. It is great to see that there are nice tweaks like the hinge holes being pre cut as these are a constant source of issues for those with few builds under their belts. The Spitfire kit was very nice, but now that the 3D printed parts are available it really opens the scope for more adventurous scale detailing for minimal weight penalty.

    Adrian

  4. Hi Andy,

    Sorry for the delay in replying. The past couple of weeks have been hectic with builders/ plumbers in the house and now I have some normality until the next batch of upgrading. The pictures should be self explanatory but the following should help.

    The flap servos were placed in the forward bottom area of the nacelle to allow the battery to drop as deep as possible into the rear bottom of the battery bay.

    sdc13098.jpg

    Note that the snake allows the battery and cable to pass by albeit with slight interference fit. The ESC is placed across the nacelle front passing the cables between the outer skin and the vertical supports. The ESC rests in the forward lightening holes and is free to move a little.

    sdc13099.jpg

    The battery goes in cable end first doubling backwards to join with the ESC connector above the Lipo.

    sdc13101.jpg

    sdc13103.jpg

    The top front of the lipo rests forward and lays just under the nacelle cover as I built it. I have fitted 4s cells from 3000 to 3600 without problem. Should the battery lift up, the mechanical advantage of the magnets at the rear hold down any pressure exerted thus far by the Lipo bearing under the front edge of the cover.

    I hope this helps

    Adrian

  5. I think David has summed up the main issue at the end of his post.

    It does seem from what I've experienced (Via my connections with kit manufacturers both balsa and foam types) that the big rise in balsa prices and the sudden hike in kit prices many, many moons ago put the brakes on a great number of model builders hobby and a good number took to their computers for fun as did the kids of the time. Those that enjoyed "Balsa bashing" seemed to suddenly be threatened with the endangered list especially as the search for materials to build cheaper models gave rise to the foamies and models made with a variety of card, foam, XPS etc. It became significantly cheaper to produce a non traditional build model culminating in the rise of the far eastern ARF market where cheap materials, manufacturing and labour made them with few competitors and able to flood the market with (In many cases excellent performing) models that require a minimum of effort to get flying.

    Those diehards who have lived through this are still producing traditional builds because so much more can be done with the balsa, ply builds with durability and strength being attributes that foam does not always satisfy especially where competition might be involved. Until the production of composite foam models take a significant hike in costs there will not be cause to change from where we are now, and with so few youngsters taking up this hobby/ sport the future is bleak indeed with the traditional build banner being carried by fewer and fewer.

    Maybe what is needed is for the education authorities to put practical craft activities back on to the national curriculum to give the youngsters something to create for themselves so practical skills can be learned and appreciated. Maybe that would plant seeds such that some may grow into modellers.

    I may be wide of the mark but this is the way I see things at the moment

    Adrian

  6. Hi Andy,

    As Jon has said the tailplane needs no further reinforcement​ as it is well supported on the fuselage and the fin also adds some support. The trailing edge acts as a spar too so I would not be concerned, and in my case I have cut out a fair piece of the tailplane underside to allow the tail retract unit to fit as needed.

    Cheers

    Adrian

  7. Hi Adrian,

    There is an Aussie modeller on RC Groups by the name Nitrocharged. He has done a lot with micro EDF and does sell some bits n bobs. The link posted should PM him: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=30761#

    Good luck

    Ady

  8. Hi Jon ,

    The suggestion of counter rotating props was just to counter the tendency to autorotate to the left when high power is quickly applied in a low speed high angle of attack such as a late decision to overshoot or if turning too hard causing an accelerated stall. Most multi engine planes will do this so the suggestion was just there for those that might push the sweet flying nature of the machine that bit too far

    Adrian

  9. Hi Cliff,

    I'm really glad you enjoyed the flying. This Ju-88 kit really is an easy build and also great intro to multi engine flying. The powerful rudder will cope well with asymmetric power in flight and She'll be even better if the props were counter rotating. The bug has bitten a little methinks.

    Adrian

  10. I have bought a strip of ribbon cable from RS Components and strip of 3 wires at a time to run the length of the fuselage and then soldered each end of a short extension cable to the ends to make a permanent extender. If more than one servo is required then I add an extra wire off the ribbon for each servo signal wire and solder the extra connector to the common + and - then solder the connector signal wire to the spare wire.

    Adrian

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