Roger Dyke

JD8 and Dick: many thanks. I think I will contact Master Airscrew. Engine Doctor: Thanks for your reply. It's the smaller hole in the prop that actually fits the shaft and that's at the back. In order to fit the prop with the writing at the front I would have to reamer out the smaller hole then fit one of the sleeves as you suggest. It still wouldn't get over the problem of the smooth blending curved bit at the end of the shaft where it joins the fixing flange. I'm sorry, but it's a little difficult to explain. It would be fine with the sleeve rings (if needed) if the stepped hole was the other way around.

Hi All, I have just purchased some Master Airscrew Electric propellers and am a bit confused about their fitting. The provided hole in the centre is stepped which is what I usually expect to see. However, the larger of the two provided holes is at the front(?) of the prop with the smallest at the back. I am taking it that the front is with the white writing on it. My motor shaft fits the smaller hole. However the machined shaft where it joins the flange that attaches to the motor has a slight curved blend at the flange end preventing the prop bottoming out against the flange without enlarging the first 1-2mm of the hole in the prop. Should it be that I am installing the prop the wrong way around and the larger hole should be facing the flange with the prop writing on the back? Seems odd to me as all my old Master props for my IC engines have the stepped holes the other way around. Your help please.

I have just rang Futaba Customer Service, and the guy there assures me that the Futaba Mini Servo S3115 is good for up 6 volts like the S148 and that the stated voltage is nominal (in line with the 4.8v NiCd battery pack). He says that they are aware that more flyers now are using electric flight with the BEC supplying 5.0 or 5.5 volts and that is fine. So that is job done I think (I hope) John: Thanks for your input. Roger

Sorry John, I told a little porky. I have just checked the specification of the BEC from the ESC and it is specified as 5.5 volts at 5 amps. Do you think this is too much for the servos?

Hi All, I have just ordered two Futaba S3115 Mini servos. After ordering, I've noticed that the Futaba specification states 4.8 volt only, and warns of damage if this voltage is exceeded. My system runs on 5.0 volts from the ESC (via the receiver). Have any of you out there ever had any problems with these servos using 5.0 volts? Futaba do not seem to indicate any form of voltage tolerance. Roger

I have just received my Operators number too, and like you, I have been told that in order to fly I also need a Flyers number too. When I go onto the indicated website site it expects me to take the on-line test. I am already registered as having and 'A' certificate so what's going on?

PatMc: After your last post I dug my handbook out and you were right. The fin and tail must be made from a different foam to the rest of the model. Thanks for copying the relevant section from the manual.

PatMc: I can't remember spotting that. I'll have a look. thanks for that.

Hi Brian, Thanks for that. I am a long standing modeller (with a few breaks in between) and understand what you say. I am also now a bit older in years and am going back to the more docile sorts of planes, hence the apprentice. All my other planes are IC and have purchased the Apprentice for the winter months as it's less hassle in the cold and muddy weather. Thanks for your tips. I particularly like the one about retaining the tailplane for future use.

PatMc: I might just do that. I just thought that someone out there might know whether some of the glues I have around me might do the trick. Denis: I have about 4 different types of CA but don't think that any of them are foam safe (it doesn't say so). Kevin: Unfortunately, I do not have the old fin to use as it's still in a servable condition in the plane. As you said, the tailplane is covered in a sort of plastic. I'm just a little bothered of the glue creeping into the foam and melting it. My thanks to you all for your very valued responses. Very much appreciated. I think that I can now sort it out.

Old Geezer, I've not heard of that one. I'll have to have a look next time I'm in my local store. I was rather hoping though, to use something that I already had.

Thanks Brian UHU POR is about the only glue I don't have. I have PVA, Araldite, Contact Adhesive, Clear Bostik, and various CA's. Are any of them any good?

Hi All, I have just purchased a new tail and fin kit for my E-Flite Apprentice S 15e. In the kit there is a plastic fitment that holds the tail down with a slot along it for the fin. When I first purchased the complete aircraft kit, the plastic fitment had already been affixed to the bottom of the fin. In the replacement kit, it is a separate part. My question is: Do I just slot the fin into the plastic fitment as it is a tight-ish fit, or do I glue it in. If I am to glue it, what type of glue is recommended? Many thanks Roger

Crackin' story (as above in **LINK**).

Great story Peter. A good telephone number to keep I think.

Yes, that's true. I now have more than enough ideas from your good selves to have a look at. My thanks to you all for you very valued replies. Roger

Hi Stuart, I haven't seen that one. I'll have a look at it. Thanks. Roger

Old Geezer: That sounds very encouraging. Thanks for that.

Old Geezer: I never really thought of filling it with soft balsa. That's a good idea, thanks for that. - : Thanks for the links, I'll have a look at them.

Thanks for the replies and the info.

Thanks for that. Do they have that sort of Gorilla glue in the local DIY?

Hi All, Recently, I encountered two large dings in the leading edge of my aircraft's wing each side of the fuselage about half way between the fuselage and the wing tip. The wing is foam with 4" of balsa sheeting on the front edge (top & bottom) where it is glued to the leading edge. The dings pushed the leading edge back about a inch or so and crushed the foam and balsa sheet. The dings are about 3-4" wide. I am making up a new piece of leading edge for each, but before I repair the sheeting I need to fill the hole left by the expired foam. What is the best way of doing this? I do have a large block of foam at my disposal so I was thinking to shred some of this into the hole probably mixed with a little PVA glue. What do you reckon? Your thoughts would be very much appreciated. Roger

Hi Roy, Your experience is duly logged for the future. I'm glad you got your Chipmunk back. Many thanks. Roger

Thanks Robin. Yes, I think that's a good way of putting it (almost uncontrollable). Roger

* * * * * * * * * Retrieved * * * * * * * * * Went down the field again this afternoon with my accomplice, armed with all sorts of telescopic poles stiff wire, gaffer tape, and a 7 metre retrieval pole. By feeding these items up vertically and taping them all together a section at a time we finally managed to reach the plane's height. Very unwieldly to control though. With a great deal of effort and energy we finally got the fuselage to fall but the wing stayed put. Another 20 minutes or so and the wing finally fell too. Pretty serious damage but I am optimistic that with lots and lots of TLC it might just fly again. Robin: Thanks for your good tips. I shall take them all on board. My thanks to you all for your very valuable contributions. Very much appreciated. Roger