Matt Storey 1

Thanks Tony   Yes, happy to do so when back home. I've yet to sheet this, and my wing seemed wonky as well, although i put this down to sheeting the top first on the port side. I removed this sheeting and so that it was only on the bottom of the wing and remained flexible. the top sheeting then went on and i used numerous magazines to apply generous pressure along the whole wing - one at a time. This completely cured the warped/twist and it now appears to be completely accurate.   Quite happy it is to, considering its my first built up wing.   I'll take pics of the rest of the sheeting process and also how i seal up the joins.   Cheers Edited By Matt Storey 1 on 09/04/2019 11:09:29

Latest developments..   wing has been ‘corrected’ (!) and now has the right angle of washout. Will finish more sheeting and the leading/trailing edges tomorrow. I teach air cadets on Tuesdays/Fridays so a good opp to get them involved too.   Also started to consider the split flap and aileron route. Toying with adding a 50mm trading edge to achieve this but. It sure. Hmmm...!! Edited By Matt Storey 1 on 08/04/2019 23:10:16

Edited By Matt Storey 1 on 08/04/2019 22:38:03

So, big learning point for me on the wing. Sheet the underside first and then the top, otherwise it can very easily develop a warp. Had the port wing done and even added a 6mm block for washout. Ended up with the wing drooped down instead! Now have the top stripped and sanded ready for new sheeting. Will put this down to first time inexperience and Friday evening beer...

Wing ribs done.. copied from a master and cut out with a scroll saw. Also used permagrit to shape all and create the spar slots. I was going to add lightening holes, but can’t decide if it’s worth it?!

Thanks Peirs - All valid points! My next build is a Telemaster 40 which I want to go super STOL on - Separate flaps amongst others. The flaperon idea is mainly a ‘why not’ as it means minimal change from the plan; bearing in mind this is my first plan build! When I build scale plastic models, i frequently scratch build details and use resin/photo etch. It an obsession really - the need to add fine detail, even if only I know about it! the wingtip idea is an example of this. Yes, it will mean more work, but it will look good, allow me to learn more and why not! i saw this video in my research for the Telemaster: **LINK** The generators do allow the airflow on the outer wing to remain attached in high AOA or low speed. It will be small improvements, but again why not. For me, this is key to the hobby, to be imanginative and create something unique. Definitely worth the extra effort, even if the performance is similar.

Thanks Piers - good advice and much appreciated.   There are few points I've considered with flaperons vs split aileron/flap. Separate route means either four servos or bell cranks/torque rods - more complexity for the build Also means reduced aileron authority with a smaller span, although i could compensate with a deeper control surface. Again means alteration to the design. Flaperons can be retrofitted and removed simply by programming the transmitter. I may add small vortex generators to the outer portion of the wing to help low speed performance - not sure of the exact effect on small model, although there is online research demonstrating benefits Only plan to use once i'm fully confident of the models performance and would only start by experimenting at altitude. If it became difficult to control - no more flaperons! Edited By Matt Storey 1 on 28/03/2019 16:06:01

Thanks, Jim And yes, Trevor, true that! Only a few places i can mock up the aircraft in my house. This was stealthily taken whilst my wife was in the living room.. To be honest, the light from the hood is quite useful in seeing defects. I normally build plastic kits and often take pics of finished models there. Next up is joining the elevators and cutting out the wing ribs.

Battery placement will be crucial to the CG issue. The only concern i have with using the fuel tank space is that it won't counter balance the tail strongly enough and therefore lead weights will be needed. I want to avoid that as the aim is to keep the weight as low as possible. That will help keep the stall speed low. The problem is that a 4 stroke 0.52 would be circa 500g. The motor i am looking at is a 4Max 5055-595 weighing in at 300g. The lipo adds more weight at 450 grams, but this is closer to the CG point potentially reducing its effect. One idea i am toying with is to create a square opening from the engine firewall (F1) to inside the motor mount. The battery would slide forward into this 'box' space allowing fine tuning of the CG. I'm keeping the dihedral at the designed angle. Its a decent sized fuselage meaning a bit of weight above the CG point. I want to maintain lateral stability and it also looks better with it.

Hi all, I've been watching this with great interest, especially after buying the RCME July 18 edition with the free plan. A few points to note: I got back into flying last year after a 20yr break - now 37. I bought the magazine as part of my journey back into the hobby I soon after bought a Chris Foss Uno Wot - my first balsa build since my teens I've never built from plan before Now an electric convert I've simply ordered my wood from SLEC and and copying/cutting from the plans. No short kit for me! So, having seen the mass build was to be Renaissance, i was fairly excited to see others start their builds and to learn this. I actually started on the 1st March although have only now decided i will share my progress/experience and add some pics. In fact, my fuselage is nearly complete - i'll post some pics up later. Some things i have learnt: Fuselage sheeting - i used 2.4mm for this. As i'm going electric, i was tempted to go 1.6mm. I still think this would have worked and working the wood would have also been easier. Tailplane - I have modded from the plans slightly and gone for a 'squared off' look. I also built the horizontal stab as a single piece - this ensures strength Tailfin - I've noticed some are building the base of this to sit on top of the soft shaped block. Instead i cut the bottom of the bottom to be flush onto the stab. This means that the soft balsa blocks fit along the sides of the fin and provide a more rigid mating surface. As vibration and fuel proofing won't be an issue, but cooling is, i've used liteply throughout the fuse. I'm also opening up lighting holes in the formers, ribs etc, thus reducing the overall weight and increasing airflow around the ESC and lipo. Probably going to install the ESC on the motor mount. The lipo will be where the fuel tank sits using velcro straps. Also attaching the hatch using hinges and a quick release system for fast and easy access. About to move onto the wing construction and likely to use flaperons with hoerner wingtips to help low speed stability. Nothing like diving straight in! Matt