paul d
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Posts posted by paul d
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I agree with Andrew, strip it and start again. I've just covered a model with polyester silk ( from hobby craft) it's as cheap as chips, £2.50 buys you a metre length, 90cm wide. I applied it using covergrip, goes round double curvetures wonderfully, shrinks with a little heat and three coats of thinned dope seals it.
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Think you'll find westwings shut down ages ago?
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Gary, I do hope they havnt changed the formula! used to work a treat.
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Don't dip the parts in caustic soda, suspend them over a bowl of the solution, the fumes are far more gentle, dipping parts can cause severe erosion, I've stripped several antique fishing reels this way.
The fumes are horrendous btw, please do it outside.
If your not in a rush good old fashioned 'Dettol' , the original Brown stuff, is a very gentle way of stripping anodising, it'll take a few days and the parts must be immersed in it but it works wonderfully without the harmful fumes......
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I honestly don't understand why chaps bother with these people, support your local shop, lets be honest all they sell is cheap Chinese carp.....
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lovely work Simon....small point, have you tried it in the car?
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Nice discussion chaps, I for one meant no offence or malice just offered my thoughts etc, I will however beg to differ with Jon with his comment about the presence of oil adding nothing to combustion ( it does....) also we need to remember however advanced we have become in meteorology the engines we use in models are still incredibly crude devices compared to even modest commercial engines ( most 2 stroke chainsaw engines, out board motors etc run on 100/1 oil/ petrol....try that with your laser ( substituting methonal obviously) just for fun have a look at the current range of 'Stihl' agricultural range of products....2 strokes that run on the 4 stroke cycle, fuel injected blah blah blah and guess what,the recomended fuel/oil premix is vegetable based.
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I could do with one as well as a unmarked or new prop nut for the Irvine version if anyone feels able to help.
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Totally relevant Don....'our' engines like the rotarys of yesteryear both relie on total loss lubrication..enjoy your Sunday
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Don, having worked extensively on the clerget radial fitted to the Brooklands museums sopwith Camel ( replica airframe, original engine) amongst many other full size engines I can assure you the tolerances are extremely tight..... A very interesting subject for a sensible discussion.
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Sorry forgot to add: In response to John's original post, just ask the engineers at old warden to abandon castor in favour of modern synthetics in there vintage rotarys etc....castor still has a place imho..... tin hat firmly applied.....
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Jon, I must pick you up on a couple of points, you say the oil contributes nothing to combustion, of course it does! it's present in the combustion chamber when ignition takes place and a proportion of it burns which takes me to my second point.
You also say oils lean run protection properties is folk lore, you fail to mention the secondary function of the oil, it dissipates heat, oil that doesn't get burnt exits the exhaust taking heat away.
The slowing/stopping/ prop throwing has nothing to do with there being insufficient fuel to maintain combustion it's due to the engine suffering a partial seizure.
I do seem to remember reading of your trouble with a paw 60 diesel and your attempt at a cure with poor running, you drilled a hole in the cylinder head when it was quiet obvious it had a worn bore allowing the products of combustion past the contra piston!
I know it sounds like I'm "having a pop", I'm not I'm just giving you my opinion having spent 25 years working in F1, now those engines do operate at the limits of what's possible when it comes to cooling and lubricating.
As a aside and it may be of interest to some but 'we' once used a modified laser engine as a air pump back in Ayrton Sennas days with the Honda engine ( you may need to ask Neil about that!).
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Junior 60.......
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I'm currently covering a model with polyester silk, available from hobby craft for a very reasonable £2.50 a yard (60" wide), it's sold as a dress lining material, very tightly woven and light ( .07mm thick).
I'm using covergrip to apply it, shrink taught with a medium hot iron then 3 coats of thinned dope to seal, goes round double curvetures wonderfully.
Much lighter than nylon but just as strong imho.
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You can't "scale" air.......
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David, I'm fairly sure I saw a tin in addlestone models the other day tucked away in a corner, worth a call? there open from 11 today.
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156 views and one reply...poor show, if it wasn't for chaps like this things would have been very different...
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As others have said adding ailerones will spoil it and possibly over stress the wing, may I suggest if you fancy a vintage style model with ailerones you build a super 60.
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Thank you, I may try some, apologies for spelling 'dye' incorrectly!! I'm frankly awful at spelling....
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Posted by barryt on 25/11/2019 15:04:25:
Google lightweight Vilene interfacing. Glue and shrink with dope. Does not shrink much with heat. Compound curves easily covered. Cost effective and worth experimenting with. Available at haberdasheries. Consult wife for further info.
Sounds interesting! can it be died with fabric die? or do you add colour with dope etc?
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Exactly wingman, really wouldn't bother messing about with glue..
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Totally agree Tigerman, really don't understand why chaps use them?
why not support a UK model shop?
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"Outerzone" is your best bet.....11 odd thousand planes, 3 added everyday!
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my local shop ( addlestone models) has quite good stocks of small section wood, take a look, they have website.
Drone laws 2020
in All Things Model Flying
Posted
It's hardly worth debating to be honest, pay the £9.,take the test and go and enjoy your flying safe in the knowledge your completely legal....