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paul d

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Posts posted by paul d

  1. I agree with Andrew, strip it and start again. I've just covered a model with polyester silk ( from hobby craft) it's as cheap as chips, £2.50 buys you a metre length, 90cm wide. I applied it using covergrip, goes round double curvetures wonderfully, shrinks with a little heat and three coats of thinned dope seals it.

  2. Don't dip the parts in caustic soda, suspend them over a bowl of the solution, the fumes are far more gentle, dipping parts can cause severe erosion, I've stripped several antique fishing reels this way.

    The fumes are horrendous btw, please do it outside.

    If your not in a rush good old fashioned 'Dettol' , the original Brown stuff, is a very gentle way of stripping anodising, it'll take a few days and the parts must be immersed in it but it works wonderfully without the harmful fumes......

  3. Nice discussion chaps, I for one meant no offence or malice just offered my thoughts etc, I will however beg to differ with Jon with his comment about the presence of oil adding nothing to combustion ( it does....) also we need to remember however advanced we have become in meteorology the engines we use in models are still incredibly crude devices compared to even modest commercial engines ( most 2 stroke chainsaw engines, out board motors etc run on 100/1 oil/ petrol....try that with your laser ( substituting methonal obviously) just for fun have a look at the current range of 'Stihl' agricultural range of products....2 strokes that run on the 4 stroke cycle, fuel injected blah blah blah and guess what,the recomended fuel/oil premix is vegetable based.

  4. Don, having worked extensively on the clerget radial fitted to the Brooklands museums sopwith Camel ( replica airframe, original engine) amongst many other full size engines I can assure you the tolerances are extremely tight..... A very interesting subject for a sensible discussion.

  5. Jon, I must pick you up on a couple of points, you say the oil contributes nothing to combustion, of course it does! it's present in the combustion chamber when ignition takes place and a proportion of it burns which takes me to my second point.

    You also say oils lean run protection properties is folk lore, you fail to mention the secondary function of the oil, it dissipates heat, oil that doesn't get burnt exits the exhaust taking heat away.

    The slowing/stopping/ prop throwing has nothing to do with there being insufficient fuel to maintain combustion it's due to the engine suffering a partial seizure.

    I do seem to remember reading of your trouble with a paw 60 diesel and your attempt at a cure with poor running, you drilled a hole in the cylinder head when it was quiet obvious it had a worn bore allowing the products of combustion past the contra piston!

    I know it sounds like I'm "having a pop", I'm not I'm just giving you my opinion having spent 25 years working in F1, now those engines do operate at the limits of what's possible when it comes to cooling and lubricating.

    As a aside and it may be of interest to some but 'we' once used a modified laser engine as a air pump back in Ayrton Sennas days with the Honda engine ( you may need to ask Neil about that!).

  6. I'm currently covering a model with polyester silk, available from hobby craft for a very reasonable £2.50 a yard (60" wide), it's sold as a dress lining material, very tightly woven and light ( .07mm thick).

    I'm using covergrip to apply it, shrink taught with a medium hot iron then 3 coats of thinned dope to seal, goes round double curvetures wonderfully.

    Much lighter than nylon but just as strong imho.

  7. Posted by barryt on 25/11/2019 15:04:25:

    Google lightweight Vilene interfacing. Glue and shrink with dope. Does not shrink much with heat. Compound curves easily covered. Cost effective and worth experimenting with. Available at haberdasheries. Consult wife for further info.

    Sounds interesting! can it be died with fabric die? or do you add colour with dope etc?

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