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Jeffrey Cottrell 2

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Posts posted by Jeffrey Cottrell 2

  1. Hi Guys, couple of thoughts

    Currently putting together a pair of Chilli Wind wings, using the rib templates supplied by HarryD.  Have to say those templates are very good and perfect for use. He also prepared a wing layout drawing, with rib positions marked, so in conjunction with the templates all you need.

    The Wind plan can be downloaded from Outerzone, so all you need for free (cheapskate, moi?)

    Changing the subject:

    Few posts back, RedBaron mentioned a model called a Bean. Agreed, silly name. Looking for some more info revealed a smaller one called Dwarf Bean. Even sillier name. Somewhat reminicient of the Crossfire by Howard Metcalfe.

    Anyway, fancied a closer look. Supposedly a free plan in RC Model Flyer, June 2013. Searched June issue, and also May and July but couldn't find anything.

    Can someone help?

    Jeff

  2. Hi Wilco

    Not sure if there ever was a plan for the Blob.

    Ir was originally a kit from SAS (Soar Ahead Sailplanes) and came with pre-made foam wings and pre-cut parts, so a plan would not be necessary.

    However, I have just received my kit from NJR modelling, and won't be building for a while, so any dimensions/shapes which would be of use to you, I can trace from mine.

    Let me know

    Jeff

  3. Hi Graham

    Following your thread with interest. Somewhere in my schedule (no 178, I believe) I have one to build which I intend to electrify same as yours.

    Could you let me know which motor you have used?

    Done a bit of research and most found the narrow nose made fitting a motor problematical, but your seems to fit with space to spare.

    Did you widen the nose at all to fit it in?

    Thanks

    Jeff

  4. Hi Guys

    Anyone remember the old SAS Blob slope soarer? Had a couple in my time, huge fun with a 15 engine up front.

    Anyway, long time back (try February) I got in touch with a company called NJR modelling, who were planning to re-introduce the SAS range and put my name on the waiting list for a Blob.

    In truth I'd actually forgotten about it when I got an e-mail out of the blue to tell me they were ready to ship.

    So, got one coming. Anybody else fancy one, look here.

    Only question is, when I got the e-mail, Nick said shipping was included in the price. When I came to place my order I found an extra £12.50 aded for shipping.

    Got an e-mail in to Nick to clarify this, will let you know.

    Jeff

    Got a quick reply back. What he actually said was shipping was included in the PROCESS. Odd choice of words, which I misread to mean included with the price. My bad.

    So, if you want one, expect to pay £12.50 for UK shipping on top of the kit price.

    J

  5. On 12/10/2021 at 07:52, Nigel R said:

    I think you've identified a bit of a non-problem, to be honest.

    Hi Nigel

    You could well be right on that. Didn't like the idea of cutting chunks out of the ribs without a plan, but no-one else has come up with anything better, so that's the way to go. Thanks.

    Andy

    Sticking with the wing mounted u/c, for the old fashioned look. Even considering a central servo and torque rods for the ailerons. Can't get more 'old school' than that.

    We'll see

    Jeff

  6. Hi Guys

    David

    'New Wing'. Had the same thought myself, but the old manual also has instructions for the built up wing, so it's not that. Had a chat with Chris at SLEC, and he says it's a change in the spar webbing.

    Apparently the older model had top and bottom spars which you glued the ribs to but then the spar webbing was in sections to be glued in separately. The newer design has a one piece slotted web of cnc ply. The lower spar  is glued to this first, then the ribs added and the upper spar glued to the ribs and the webbing in situ.

    Should make for a massively strong structure, but I'm not sure about fitting the upper spar to the webbing and ribs at the same time. Depends how well the slots have been cut. Time will tell.

    As Redex pointed out, the wing does have slight dihedral. One odd thing. Neither manual gives how much this dihedral should be, just suggests using a book or similar to hold it at the correct angle.

    Not sure if I'll need this. Ken built one with a flat wing, no dihedral, and I'm seriously thinking about going that way too. Not sure whether it will spoil the looks of the model, but I have its stable mate, the Limbo Dancer, which has a flat wing and flies very well on it.

    Jury still out on that one.

    Not sure about anyone else, but the change back to glow came about through a series on coincidences, and a bite of the nostalgia bug.

    Some months back I went to the Wings and Wheels show, with the firm intention of not buying anything (yeah, right). Came back with two second hand models, one or which was a big Excelsior from the DSM stable.

    It had a whopping great Thunder Tiger 120 on the front, but came at such a good price I just couldn't resist. Anyway, having been all electric for so long needed to source the ancilliarys, starter, fuel etc.

    Had a couple of flights with this one, until a hard landing resulted in large bits falling off. Not too happy with the way it had been put together, so that's in the repair shop for a full refit.

    Left me with all the gear and nothing to use it on.

    Looking through the BMFA classifieds, scored an OS 40 LA for a very reasonable price, so that only left a suitable airframe to fit it, hence the FunFly.

    That's my story anyway, and I'm sticking to it.

    Jeff

    DSCN0002.JPG

  7. Hi Nigel

    Thanks for the quick reply and the details. Pretty much what I had in mind, although I'd probably use 1/8 liteply to reinforce the ribs.

    However, what's exercising my noggin at the moment is this:

    Your example was from a tricycle u/c, which puts the blocks behind the spar where the aerofoil is relatively flat. On the Wind, it's anything but.

    Blocks are fitted in front of the spar where the rib curvature is at its highest, and given the tapered wing this gets even greater as you go outboard.

    So, fitting the blocks level with the top of the ribs is a non-starter.  That's my issue, any ideas?

    Jeff

  8. Hi guys

    Started on my Chilli Wind build, using templates supplied by Harry, and they really are excellent.

    Basic wing structure is built, and I'm pleased with it, but run into a stumbling block with u/c mounting.

    The plan shows a foam wing, and even then only shows the position of the u/c wire, without any detail as to how to mount it. With my built up wing I have even more of an issue.

    So, any suggestions as to how to go about it would be most welcome.

    Asked the same question on the Built up wing thread, here, so ideas on either thread would be most welcome.

    Thanks

    Jeff

  9. Hi Guys

    Started a Chilli Wind build with built up wings, and I could use some help. I used some rib profiles supplied by HarryD here and they are excellent, however I have run into a question over u/c mounting.

    The plan shows details for a foam wing, and even then only shows the position of the u/c wire with no detail of how it is mounted.

    With my built up wing I am even more at a loss, so any suggestions would be most helpful.

    Thanks

    Jeff

  10. Hi Guys
    Funfly kit arrived this morning. Only had time for a quick peruse but first impressions good.
    Arrived in a box jam packed with what looks pretty good wood.
    This kit cost £105 inc postage. Considering you would pay twice that for a couple of lumps of re-cycled ceiling tiles, seems like pretty good value in my book.
    As noted, comes with tank and engine mount, but also loads of other bits of hardware, including even a spinner.
    Only omission was a pair of wheels. Looking at the box, doubt whether they could have fitted them in anyway. Got loads of spares around, so we'll forgive them that.
    Even included some plastic sheet to cover the plan.
    Yes, there is a plan, but only for the wings, but that's where the puzzle is.
    Two instruction books included.
    First is, I presume, the original one for the kit. This has written building instructions but no illustrations.
    A supplementary one is also enclosed. This has pictures at various stages of the construction, which will be very useful, but it is titled ' Building Instructions, New Wing', so wondering what's changed.
    Main construction appears to be cnc cut lite ply. Ribs have lightening holes, but it also uses cnc cut sub leading edges, trailing edges and shear webs, all tab locked in place.
    Should make for a quick and accurate build, but I would question the weight.
    Obviously will be tracing round the parts before the build, so, if need be, simple job to make a new wing out of balsa.
    Anyway, so far so good.
    Nigel
    Sorry, forgot to mention, I picked up a used OS40LA from Martin Thompson. That arrived today, seems to have loads of compression, so won't know more until I get it running, but should do the job.
    Also you mentioned using 'T' nuts for the motor mount/bulkhead.
    SLEC are ahead of you, and include those in the kit. Bit puzzled when I found another set in a bag. Turns out these fit into the u/c plate for the retaining saddles. Most kits would use self tappers for this, so +1 to SLEC.
    That's all I have so far. Will highlight any issues as I build.
    Cheers
    Jeff

  11. Hi Nigel, thanks

    You must be reading my mind. Having not built an ic model for 20 years or so, my first question would be about fuel proofer.

    I do have a couple of sorts of epoxy resin in my goodies box, but would you think that Rustins product might be better.

    SLEC website says fuel tank and engine mount are in the kit, so I'll see what I have when it arrives.

    Still hoping to hear back from Ken as to why he built his without dihedral. Sounds interesting.

    Work in progress

    Jeff

  12. Hi Guys

    Don't know whether anyone's still following this thread, but if so, can you help.

    About to start my FunFly build, and first ic model I have done since Gods dog was a puppy.

    Any handy hints I should know about in advance?

    So, first question.

    Ken

    Back in the dark ages you posted that you didn't bother with the suggested dihedral, and enlarged the rudder.

    Was this by design or just because it looked right?

    I have a Limbo dancer from the same stable, and it's done me proud for many years with a flat wing.

    So, your thoughts?

    Jeff

  13. Hi Nigel, thanks for your interest.

    I did solve it, but more by luck than judgment.

    Always in the past used my default browser, Firefox, to open pdf files.

    In an earlier post kc mentioned he used Acrobat DC to open his files. Delved around and found I had that as an option, so tried it, and printed out perfectly.

    Lesson learned, will be using that in future. Still have no idea why it worked, but do I care?

    Now to get building. Balsa and sharp knives. At last something I know about!!!!

    Jeff

    • Like 1
  14. Peter

    Is there a demo copy of Compufoil I can download, just for a play.

    All I can see is the base program, at $39, but if I want to generate intermediate ribs I have to have the 'Lofting' module for another $21, and if I want to add spars etc, a 'Spar Slot' module fort another $13.

    I can see why you, as a prolific model designer, would find almost constant use for this software, but all I want to do is to have a play with this, see whether I can get some sort of handle on how to use it.

    Jeff

  15. Gentleman

    I wish you would stop saying something is easy, where for me at least it's certainly not.

    So, downloaded free copy of Profili, in the computer as Profili XT.

    Found a suitable aerofoil for a play. Printed that out ok.

    Went to the next tab and added spars, le, te. Went to print that and confronted by a message saying unregistered user could not print at that stage.

    Ok, I'll fall for it.

    Filled in the registration form which said a registered copy would cost 60 euro.

    Not for me it won't.

    So, what am I doing wrong?

    Jeff

  16. Hi Guys

    kc

    After all your help, that's the least I could do. Expect a pm shortly.

    Need to get in touch to tell him I've found a solution, so I'll pass on your suggestion about Outerzone.

    Brian

    Not sure if it's a bit cheeky to make his design public. What I'll do is to pm you the information, same as kc.

    Expect pm shortly.

    Jeff

  17. Hi Guys

    Problem solved, or at least kc solved it for me, in a roundabout sort of way.

    Here's the deal.

    When I click on the  pdf file I get a some options. One is marked 'save file', pretty obvious, and another is marked 'open file in Firefox (my default browser).

    What I've never used is a third option marked 'other'.

    Anyway, clicked on that and one of the options was 'Acrobat DC'. After kc's mention, thought it was worth a try, so clicked on that.

    Print page came up with all the options already set, except for cut marks, which I'll tick on the next run.

    So, tile printed on that and it came out exactly right. Woo hoo!

    Still can't get my head round why Acrobat produced the right result, where Firefox didn't, but I'm not really worried.

    Thanks to everyone who contributed, but especially kc who set me on the right track.

    All I have now is the minor issue of building the damn thing. This will involve balsa and sharp knives. At least I know something about those.

    Cheers

    Jeff

    • Like 2
  18. Hi Piers, thanks

    Couple of good thoughts, but neither applies.

    I did try a couple of on-line printers. True, they only wanted about £1 to do the print, but when you add in minimum charge, shipping and handling etc it comes out to more like £10.

    Ok if I knew this would solve the problem, but I still don't know where the issue lies.

    Also, once I get a correct size file I will cut the templates out, stick them to the balsa and cut round them. Assume I goof with one (not unknown with me) and need a new template, will I have to go through the ordering and cost process again?

    As regards my settings.

    I have set the size on the pdf to 'Actual Size', then I tile print on A4. Prints on to 4 sheets which I the sellotape together. Don't think 'fit to page' applies here.

    When I go to my printer dialog box, I have the choice of either scale printing or poster (tiled) but not both, so I don't think it's  scaling issue.

    Thanks anyway

    Jeff

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