Tim Donald
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Posts posted by Tim Donald
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I'm trying to set up a Wot 4 Foam-E but want to use a channel for each aileron so that I can adjust the throws individually rather then using the supplied Y-lead. I have set it up as aerobatic model on the Tx but if I use aileron differential in the settings it wants the second aileron to be on channel 7 (it's only a 6 channel receiver). Anybody know how I can do this? It's only using 5 channels so don't want to use an 8 channel receiver just because the Tx will only use channel 7 for the second aileron.
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Thanks Chris, I had just worked it out but it took me a while !
Cheers.
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Just assembling a WOT4 Foam-E and there is a clear sticker sort of butterfly shaped (not one of the decals but seperate) but no mention of it in the instructions. Anybody know what it's for? There are two holes that look like they are the same spacing as the tow under carriage bolts but it doesn't look like it fits there?
Edited By Tim Donald on 04/03/2020 16:12:23
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Thanks Capt, that is effectively what I have done. It's ok but took a lot of faffing. I'm 50/50 if it was the best choice but its done now.
Thanks Jon, yes I did consider a centre hinge and looking back I think that is what I used to do. I didn't want there to be a gap on this one spoiling the top surface but it probably wouldn't have made a lot of difference.
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Thanks John, that is what I am going to do. I have built the wings now but not cut the servo holes yet as I might use smaller servos but I've spaced the torque rods to allow for standard size.
One problem that came flooding back to me was that if you mount torque rods high enough to top hinge it makes covering the tube or mountings difficult. If the torque rods are lower then they pull on the hinges. Never really worked out a good solution to that, it always feels a bit bodged. Any solutions to that would be good to know.
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Thanks again everyone. I'm going with torque rods and twin servos. The ailerons are fairly still so I don't think flexing would be an issue as it might be with thinner ones or foam. Good point to remember for future though. The supplied torque rods seem pretty strong so hopefully the finished mechanism will not have too much flex or slop. It's funny that I only ever read about how torque rods are so out dated but actually lots of people seem to still use (and prefer) them.
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Thanks Jon / Alan. That settles it then, torque rods and two servos it is.
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I'm building an old slope soarer kit (SAS Apache) that originally used torque rods for the ailerons driven by a single servo. I was thinking about adapting it to use two servos so that I can alter the camber etc. but the design doesn't lend itself well to wing servos (low wing so servo covers and control horns would have to be on the top looking unsightly). I am now thinking just keep the torque rods but use one servo for each. I know torque rods are not in fashion now but are there really any benefits to using wing servos over this method?
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Thanks Eagle / John. I will have a google at them.
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Is there a general consensus on the best all round charger for receiver packs (small NiMH and LiPo) and electric power packs (bigger LiPos)? I'm looking for a good all rounder that is going to be reliable. Overlander have recommended their RC6-VSR but I have read on here that people have had problems with them. A quick check on ebay brings up an iMax B6 for about half the price. I just want to buy a good one and be done with it if possible rather then having the hassle of them breaking (if there is such a thing).
Thanks.
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Thanks Frank.
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Thanks, there is no hum at this travel so hopefully ok then. I know what you mean, it's not 40% more linear travel but being a spoiler with the servo on its side the angle of movement sort of rotates and the extra makes all the difference.
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Does running a servo (ripmax sd100) at 140% throw do any damage? It is the only way I can get a spoiler to work properly. I have tried to change control horns etc but I am at the maximum size that I can fit in the space available. I have set this throw in the transmitter menus (Futaba T10J).
Edited By Tim Donald on 27/11/2019 21:37:03
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Thanks Peter, I will give that a try on some scrap as Don suggests.
For this model I have persevered with strips of oracover and it has worked ok now but I still don't like that method much. Maybe I just need to practice more !
It is a built up balsa model Bert, a 2m F3-RES glider called a Slite.
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Thanks Don, that sounds more reliable then trying to cover / hinge all in one go. Thanks, I will give it a try.
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I find trying to use film (oracover etc) very hit and miss to hinge control surfaces. Sometimes it works ok but often one side shrinks too much and then everything is mis aligned. It's ok, just not perfect. What other options are there? Years ago I used to use either magic tape on one side or small mylar strips stuck in with CA glue. Any better recommendations? This particular model is light weight one with transparent film so don't want to spoil the looks or add too much weight.
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Thanks again. Yes I think you are right. I have just glued it in place and it is not as bad as originally thought. I was looking at the front center ribs where there is some sheeting to be glued! Silly boy, I should have studied the plans more. Hopefully some light sanding when complete will sort it.
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I am building a Slite v2 but have found that the spoiler box sits proud of the wing ribs by a couple of mm. This seems strange given how accurate the laser cutting is and the way the kit goes together. Can anybody recommend the best solution? I could either try to lower the recess in the ribs but this seems fiddly now they are in place or sand the top of the box which would mean thinning the spoiler too (not keen on this).
I took some photos but can't upload them for some reason.
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Great thread Andy, I have just started building a Slight v2 and these posts really help particularly with the instructions in German. I have one question about the Oralite covering : the outer wing sections that were covered in separate top and bottom pieces, how did you do this with such a thin leading edge? I have built lots of old style aircraft and covered with solar film but they always had a balsa LE. Is the tiny carbon LE enough to stick oralite to and how much did you overlap top and bottom surfaces? Thanks.
Edited By Tim Donald on 11/11/2019 15:44:42
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Thanks Alan, I have sent you a pm.
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Cheers Pat. I can probably find out if people still fly at Bewaldeth as I know the chap that runs the paragliding school there. I will ask him. I have been there quite a few times in the last couple of years and not seen anybody myself but he is there all the time so would have a better idea.
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Thanks Steve. I got an email from the Eden club, there are about 40 members who regularly fly so I’m going to go and see them. I’m surprised there is no web site but maybe they like it that way (or maybe nobody can be bothered building one!).
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OK thanks Denis, 2S it is. Was worth asking
How to set up ailerons on separate channels (T10J)
in Futaba
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Thanks all. Yes Futaba T10J Tx.
Not sure about slaving ch5 to ch7 Bob but I will have a look at doing that thanks. It must be a very common thing for people to want to do (unless it's a sneaky ploy by Futaba to make you buy more expensive receivers !)
Thanks John, trying to avoid messing around with the mechanicals as it came pre-assembled. Also wanted the option lowering both ailerons for flaps.