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Graham Davies 3

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Posts posted by Graham Davies 3

  1. My old OS40FP was the first R/C motor I bought. It has powered all manner of models including a Telemaster 66, An Inwoods Improver, A Flair Baronette and various excellence/ Gangster hybrids. I love it. It is powerful enough, light enough to use as a hot option instead of ball-raced 25s, and throttle superbly. I still have it, and this thread has started me thinking about what I can build for the venerable old girl!

  2. I remember years ago discovering that there was small amount of uncured CA on my fingers. How? I had taken a 'comfort break' from the building board... I felt the moment of 'tack' and fortunately managed to free myself. Otherwise it would have been a very embarrassing trip to A&E looking like a life-sized adult-themed Toby Jug...

  3. Hi Simon,

    Thank you for the kind offer. That's what makes this forum so good.

    Unfortunately, had I realised this was going to be such an issue and the original bent adapter so scarce, I would have left it alone. I attempted a repair and I would now not trust it, so it's purely a 'space model' now.

    The sad fact is I can get a new motor for between £17 and £50 depending on which route from China it takes (!). The bit that irritates is the variability in specification and supply. I hear a lot of chat about Chinese purchase routes; I personally would prefer to pay £40 for a motor I can get spares for than £25 for one that becomes an ornament after yet another of my creative landings!

    But again, thank you for the offer; that really is good of you,

    Graham

  4. Thanks Keith,

    Nope, nothing there.

    They do have replacement shafts that may fit, but this would really only be to salvage the motor into some other model as reversing it and using a collet adaptor is likely to need extensive rework of the model. Still, if I end up replacing the motor, at least it stops the old one becoming a paperweight!

  5. Hi KC,

    Thanks for your reply.

    Sadly, no. I bought one! It has 14mm BCD and the recess is 10.5mm, so no dice.

    I tried to straighten the adaptor, but it's very hard to identify where the bend starts without a few things I don't have (ideally, I'd put it in a lathe and use a dial test indicator to find the onset of the bend. I sold my Myford a few years back. If I still had it, I could not only straighten this one, but make some spares!)

    Back to the drawing board!

    Graham

  6. Morning all,

    Due to some localised Geography issues (The ground was 6ft too high and at 45 degrees to where it should have been at the point of landing...), I have bent the prop adaptor on my Tempest.

    The motor is an (otherwise excellent) unbranded 4250-600kv, from a now dry source. So going to the manufacturer isn't an option.

    The adaptor is a a 3 bolt design with the following dimensions:

    Thread: M8

    Thread length: 25mm (would prefer 30!)

    Rear recess diameter: 11.0mm

    Rear recess depth: 7mm

    Bolt hole diameter: 2.7mm (x3)

    Bolt centre diameter: 13.15mm (Measured; likely specified at 13mm)

    Boss thickness: 9.7mm

    I have shown edge to edge dimension between the bolt holes as this is easiest to measure.

    Does anyone know where I can get a similar boss? I found what looked similar on HK, but there are sufficient differences to make it unsuitable.

    I cannot use a collet boss because I had to cut the shaft to get the battery far enough forward.

    I don't want to buy parts in the hope they will fit, as it's close to being cheaper to replace the motor.

    If anyone can recommend a part, or has one in their spares box, I will be eternally grateful!

    Graham

    adapter.jpg

    adapter 1.jpg

    adapter 2.jpg

    adapter 4.jpg

  7. Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 05/08/2020 18:22:00:
    Posted by Erfolg on 05/08/2020 18:04:01:

    Increasingly it is a software update or change that is required to modify the performance of equipment, rather than a soldering iron. I have read this is the case with the Spektum Tx.

    Increasingly, the EU being an example, the use of regulations are a non-tariff barriers to importation.

    I understand within the EU (I also expect the UK) the importer must ensure compliance with regulations. That in itself does not ensure you using a product is safe from prosecution, you are responsible for compliance of the equipment performance (such as a Tx).

    It has high lighted many times on this forum, anything you sell in the EU must comply and show a CE mark (if appropriate). Yet I have read that you can legally buy Wi-Fi boosters (above permitted levels), yet the out put can be illegal. Many things are not as clear cut as I would like.

    Now in the USA, who knows?

    Bear in mind that the EU 'CE' process is self-certified by the manufacturer and is not checked by anyone else. Therefore it is meaningless.

    Edited By Richard Clark 2 on 05/08/2020 18:30:37

    Sorry Richard, that's not entirely true. Whilst CE is self certified by the manufacturer, it must be backed up by a technical file. CE is a good, regulated mechanism to ensure compliance to relevant standards. It is entirely reasonable for consumers to expect manufacturers, importers and distributors to comply.

    Good, reliable EU distributors will not place non compliant goods on the market. The issue is we are all in a 'race for the bottom' and will go for the slowest price regardless of the implication. This means we buy the cheapest Chinese product from the cheapest Chinese distributor. Whilst this does not necessarily mean poor quality, it does mean that your quality or compliance is not regulated. If the consumer takes this route, you have to be careful what you wish for...

  8. Slightly previous here as it's not quite ready for maiden today, but this is my refurbed Wot's Wot. It's been in the loft of may last 3 houses, so hasn't flown for 25 years. Last flew on an ASP61, now has a nice SC91FS up front. Covered with the Richard Wills approved brown paper method, and sprayed with discontinued Halfords car paints at just £3 a can. It's going to get a bit more trim before it flies, but should be up in the air again next weekend. I think it looks OK..

    Graham

    wotswot 020820-1.jpg

    wotswot 020820-2.jpg

  9. Hi Tosh,

    I've bought two similar package deals via Ebay. I have two unbranded 30A ESCs and a 40A job The 40A one has had quite a bit of flight time. Touch wood, all three have been fine.

    I gave mine a bit of run time to weed out any infant mortality problems, otherwise, cheap smiles!

    Graham

  10. Posted by Barrie Lever on 24/07/2020 12:04:18:
    Posted by Steve J on 24/07/2020 11:18:03:
    Posted by Graham Davies 3 on 24/07/2020 09:47:07:

    One line that did surprise me is:

    OrangeRX DSMX DSM2 Compatible 2.4GHZ Transmitter module V1.2 (JR/ Turnigy/ Taranis compatible). Part number 9171000915-0

    If memory serves, one of the issues is that they were importing stuff with fictitious FCC numbers.

    I cannot believe an upright and honest Chinese company would do such a thing !!

    Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit used by the lowest form of people, but fitting in this case.

    B.

    Sadly, the only form I'm any good at!

    In my experience, even upstanding Chinese companies can fall foul of less upstanding compliance agencies!

    Let's give them the benefit of the doubt!

  11. Posted by Steve J on 24/07/2020 08:42:08:
    Posted by brokenenglish on 24/07/2020 06:41:00:

    Surely HK can't be the only company marketing this stuff?

    HobbyKing are big enough to be worth going after and they were blatantly sticking two fingers up to the FCC.

    I think there's a degree of corporate naivety. The FCC article states that Hobbyking were aware of non-compliance, but defended by claiming that the products were not marketed in the US. This was a very weak defence, and easy pickings for the FCC (Hobbyking put up a banner on 3rd July wishing it's US customers a Happy Independence day. That is enough for the US authorities to shoot down the marketable territories defence).

    I'm going to look into this in any case, as I am constantly vigilant on Chinese product compliance. If I find anything that should concern us, I will let you know.

    Graham

  12. If you read the full FCC article it lists all the non-compliant product in the appendix at the end.

    Here:

    https://docs.fcc.gov/public/attachments/FCC-18-71A1.pdf

    Most seem to be AV transmission related for the FPV market.

    One line that did surprise me is:

    OrangeRX DSMX DSM2 Compatible 2.4GHZ Transmitter module V1.2 (JR/ Turnigy/ Taranis compatible). Part number 9171000915-0

    Keeping an eye on this. I'll post anything of note.

    Graham

  13. Bad luck old chap.

    I had a similar problem many moons ago where the elevator was set to 'push' for up and there was flex in the pushrod, which was also anchored with insufficient number of points. It was possible to hold flu up elevator and then push the elevator down by hand. Doing so showed the snake outer moving inside the fus, and the final section before the horn bending. Similar can occur with elaborate bends in pushrods to exit the fuselage.

    Worth checking; it's always nice to find the smoking (or steaming in this case!) gun in such situations.

    Graham

  14. MAIDEN!!!

    So the Tempest flew today. After a couple of aborted attempts to get it rolling on our rough field without nosing over, she took to the air and apart from a few clicks of down, flew like on rails. Landing was smooth and uneventful. 4 minutes and I still had 60% capacity remaining.

    Second flight was nearly as good had I not nosed it on landing. No major damage though, so a successful evening.

    I have just noticed the dates on my photos; I took the first picture the day I started the build on 22nd June. That's a month, start to finish.

    Warbird convert here...

    Graham

    Before:

    tempest 210720-1.jpg

    After:

    tempest 210720-2.jpg

  15. Evening all,

    Today I had the pleasure of hosting my dearest friend, and over a few cuppas, we put the world to rights. And he added some detail to the Tempest.

    So, ESC connectors arrived today, and my left undercarriage leg (Thanks Richard), so once they are fitted, she's ready for maiden. Which means I'll spend 3 evenings double checking everything while I pluck up courage.

    Remember, this is Richard's 'entry level to Warbirds' kit. 55" span, less than 5lbs, and around 5 weeks start to finish. So for the time and effort to build a sports model, you get a warbird...

    Graham

    tempest 180720-1.jpg

    tempest 180720-2.jpg

    tempest 180720-3.jpg

    tempest 180720-4.jpg

    tempest 180720-5.jpg

    tempest 180720-6.jpg

    tempest 180720-7.jpg

  16. All looking good Steve, good to see you having fun!

    Regarding cooling, Peter is quite right. Wind (and cooling draught is only wind, missus!) relies on a difference in pressure. To get a draught from the front of the model to the rear, the pressure must be higher in front than behind. To achieve this, you need a bigger outlet than inlet. Otherwise, not much happens, apart from drag.

    It's also worth considering what happens to the moving air inside the model. It needs to go past the hot bits and the tendency is to take the shortest and easiest path. Creating what appears to be small gaps is beneficial, because to maintain constant pressure, if volume is decreased, velocity must increase (we know what happens when you put your thumb over the end of a hose). So don't be afraid to add baffles.

    There are some great shots of really effective baffling on one of the Laser threads. I think it's Jon's Hurricane. Jon has baffled the engine very tightly, and he knows a huge amount about cooling!

    I have done similar for my Tempest. The design has a massive chin scoop, that would have been useless for cooling! The exhaust area is much smaller, and the path to it was direct. Instead I am using the cutout behind the spinner and creating an air path around the battery and ESC to exit in front of the leading edge.

    Physics lesson over, as you were...

    G

  17. Thanks again Gents,

    I am not normally so prompt; it's really testament to Richard's excellent design. It is genuinely quick to build.

    I must admit, the completion has crept up on me! I realised last night just how close it is to being ready to fly. As I pre fitted the control runs and servo mounts when I built the fus, the radio installation is not going to take very long at all. I'm going to replace the non-standard white external hinges with the inferior 'fitted' jobs this week, and sort out the cockpit and exhaust stacks, and we are one evening of radio gear fettling from being ready to fly.

    I have a pleasant day booked with my great mate to apply some panel lines and weathering on saturday, and that should be about it!

    Graham

  18. Best to have flown and crashed than never to have flown at all!

    Personally, I think airframes are best when they meet their end in a spectacular, and preferably amusing or memorable way than as an oil soaked carcass left in a corner of a loft.

    Time is a great 'improver of facts' too. I had a 60 sized pitts way way back. I was nowhere near ready to fly this thing and bought it secondhand, where it had been through many hands by then. I refinished it, and made it look pretty good (a bit like how a mortician would treat a cadaver...), before smashing it into several million shards of GRP, balsa and foam within 20m of it first rotating. The wreckage was strewn further than the flight lasted! I can still see the spectacular explosion of particles even now, and I'm sure Ramsay MFC members are still picking them out of the grass 25 years later!

    Gutted at the time, it seems pretty funny now!

    Graham

  19. Thanks Gents,

    Ron, it was the best I could do at short notice. Scout had agreed to be a take off dolly, but then couldn't be bothered. I think it's quite scale though; there are lots of pictures of V2 take-off ramps featuring a nice mosaic bistro finish...

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