Jump to content

Grant Darnley

Members
  • Posts

    159
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Posts posted by Grant Darnley

  1. I had this model for a few years and it was fun, but hovering was a pain, and it's too twitchy for a real imac sequence. As a good throwaround model to keep assembled in the back of the car it's great. There are pics in my gallery if you want a look, and if you go to RCGroups 3d flying section you'll find a 40ish page thread on the model, along with a few videos on youtube. One point of note is that spares back up will be non-existent as freestyle rc are now closed and no new european distributor has been appointed yet.
  2. I've a DL50 on a BCM inverted pitts in my extra, and once it's started it's terrific. Only problem I have with it is drawing fuel for the 1st start of the day but that's apparently an easy fix by re-seating the choke plate. After that it runs perfectly and turns a 23x8 at healthy revs, and it's not even run-in yet. Can't speak highly enough of it and when I got it from peakmodel.com it cost £193 delivered!
  3. If this is the leccy version then they are additions, probably for tailplane struts which mine flew fine without, and it's probably best contacting Freestyle RC to find out why, they weren't in mine.  Only problem is FRC are closed until the 19th so an email to extreme flight in the US might return a quicker response.

    If this the I.C. profile then I'm even more baffled as there isn't a bit of carbon on it.

    Rob, the pushrods are metal on both the above,

  4. The clik is available from Expressfly.co.uk and is a fantastic flying indoor pattern plane.  If you fancy something more toward 3d then try the afriel from angelwing designs.  Both of these come with fantastic customer support, Richard and Andy respectively.

    Kit the clik with a hacker A10-15S and 5A esc, or the afriel with a A10-9L and 7A, both with flightpower 350 evolites, best servos are Ripmax SD100 but these are overkill for general fun flying so blue arrow 4.3 would probably suffice, and the smallest Rx you can find to suit your radio, spektrum 6300 is 2g with the wrapper off but needs servos soldered on or micro jst plugs, 6100 is 4g and uses normal plugs, GWS 4ch would be fine on 35MHz.  Build it light, build it straight, and then if you're like me lighten it even more   As Jonathan says lightness is the key, gives you so much more time to avoid the walls by flying slowly.

    If you look at the f3p/indoor pattern forum on RCGroups there are lists of weights for some of the more common components that will also help, and hundreds of plans for your next one

  5. Eric Bray wrote (see)

    Moles - refer you to a Jasper Carrott clip, if you can find it, where he went mole-hunting with a 12 bore!

    BABOOM!!   Deader

    Gasser has a busted prop from last weekend so got two indoor flights with the Clik before a wing strut popped out, not a major job but doesn't fly as straight without it, and I can't get odourless locally so have to wait to put an order in before that gets fixed either  Leaves me with a grand total of no flyable planes

  6. I prefer UHU POR, using the smear first then leave for ten mins, then stick method.  Has always worked well for me.  Hot glue is probably just Daves preferred method.

     Actually, is this the flat carbon strips or diagonal bracing?  If its the strips then por will work, bracing needs something firm to hold onto hence the hot glue.  If you're still not keen then use a small disc of 64th ply(or another thickness of 3mm foam) over where the carbon enters the foam and use cyano

  7. Can't remember if this works with these carbs but got to be worth a punt.  With the main needle at the manu. rec'd starting point, put a long(clean) piece of fuel tube on the carb nipple and blow into it, then wind the idle needle in till the air noise stops, then slowly back out till it JUST starts again.  This will get you close, then its just a matter of running it and tweaking in ever smaller increments until you get there

×
×
  • Create New...