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Stephen Stokes

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Posts posted by Stephen Stokes

  1. Try and set the ESC half way between the motor and the battery otherwise you might get timing problems, and don't forget some cooling holes to keep the battery and ESC cool.

    On my Mk 1 I ended up with 100g of lead in the nose, Mk2 only needed 30g as I did as you have and moved the EDF unit as far forward as possible and stuck the battiers (2No 4s 5000mAh) in the nose.

  2. Test flew on Saturday last week with recommended set up and movements.
     
    She would not clime and control was almost impossible and she crashed, braking her neck and tail.
    Solution move motor thrust line through C of G
     

    Added another sheet on top, curved to give a wing profile and increased the ailerons by 75mm.
     
    Result she flies …….
     

    Now to paint
  3. Hi Pirune
    I found a local supply of an alternative to Blue foam, Jewson stock cavity insulation board called …..Recticel cavity batts. It is an extruded polystyrene with foil both faces. The Foil is easy to removed. The foam is very light weight. When sanded there are a few open cells but they can be filled with one fill polyfiller.
     
    I then glass clothed is with 0.6oz cloth and Ezee coat by Delux Materials.

  4. Hi Guys I started my own building blog and should have checks to see if one already existing. I have built two of these beasties and my mate test flu the first one while I have been on holiday.
     
    As there was no guidance on the drawings I set the initial trust angle 0 degrees, with the motor parallel with the wing. She went for ground on power and broke her neck.
     
    Second flight at around 15 degrees, motor pointing at the tail she wouldn't climb under power.
     
    Glenn, Clark and Simon all report similar problems did you solve them….help…

  5. You may have noticed I have actually built two of these beasties.
    My mate test flu the first one while I have been on holiday.
     
    Initial reports are the thrust angle is wrong and the C of G needs to be 10mm back from the recommended position.
     
    On the maiden with power on the thing headed for the ground, initial trust angle 0 degrees, with the motor parallel with the wing.
     
    Second flight at around 15 degrees, motor pointing at the tail she wouldn't climb under power and ailerons non responsive.
     
    The drawings have no recommended thrust angel so time to seek advice can anyone help?
  6. Well I test flew before paining and the thrust angle and C of G were all wrong

     

    On power and she headed for the ground and broke her neck.

     

    Will glue the head back on looking up thus setting the motor pointing to the tail rather than parallel with the body.

     

    Will up date again soon.

    Edited By Stephen Stokes on 22/08/2010 08:38:37

  7. No rods in the wings, there is a 3mm rod in the head and the tail.
    I have used 0.6oz glass cloth wrapped around the leading edge and around the tail. This has made them very stiff, and light.
     
     
    The shiney strip on the wing is 25mm glass tape, dont think it need it.
     
     
  8. Painted the head with deluxe materials Flexikote

    Glued it to the body

    To get the motor thrust angle I pushed a 1m long 8mm tube into the motor mount tube in the back of its head. With this I could check alignment.

     

     
  9. Well a bit of progress.>>

    Found a local supply of an alternative to Blue foam, Jewson stock cavity insulation board called …..Recticel cavity batts. It is an extruded polystyrene with foil both faces. The Foil is easy to removed. The foam is very light weight. When sanded there are a few open cells but they can be filled with one fill polyfiller.
     

     
    Also made some claws,
    Used garden wire and a pot of chemical metal from Halfords.
     

     

     >>Didn’t like the Cyril Carr version for a head so drew one myself, my 12 years old son also had a go and as his version was better than mine that’s what I built.

     

     

    Motor mount to the back of the head with a 10mm aluminium tube glued in to hold the bell motor. Just push the motor into the tube.

     >>

    As you can tell my model shop supplier so far is Jewsons and Halfords…nice and cheep.
  10. Started building the Propellosaurus by Cyrill Carr (RCM&E April 2009)
     
    Cut the depron but before I glue it together I have to shape the main sheet to set the dihedral. The write up says affix some parcel tape to it bend it then remove tape.
     
    I don't see how the depron will hold the shape....
     
    Any advice any one.
  11. Must make my apologies, motor mount still not fixed and I've double booked myself to help out with my club flying at a local college science fair.
     
    So even with the loverly weather forecast and the chances of getting a pic of the planes in the Mag I won't be coming
     
    Have a great day, no mid airs and safe landings.
  12. Hi Guys

    Getting very little air time with the Fury. Found the APC 16x10 a little under power in the clime outs so tried a 17x10 on Saturday. (Shaun I am on a 6s Li-Po set-up)

    This was better but there were some vibration issues. I had carefully balanced the prop and for this test flight did not bother fitting the spinner.

    I called a landing and on finals didn't flare in time, landed a bit heavy and nosed over. 

    Now the wooden prop was ok but the steel engine mount split on 3 out of 4 of the mounting points. All I can think was on the previous test flights the plane kept nosing over on take off. And this may have stressed the mount, being hidden by the big spinner I would not have seen any cracks in the mount developing.

    I am assuming the vibration problem was the mount braking up and I was lucking to get her home in one piece.

    New mount on order
    Retracts need bending back in to shape
    Still hoping to make the RCM&E Fly-in ( no guaranties at the moment sorry )
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