colisace
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Posts posted by colisace
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Thank you Alan, will post a picture when sorted.
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Thank you all, the only way I can see forward is to cut more out of the centre wing section so the wheels will sit further in at an angle, wheel size is 4.5 inches so quite large. Because the wing is pre cut at approx. 15 degrees and raked forward it is not an easy solution. The plan states the prototype used a set from Unitract International but no other details, I have contacted them but not had a reply as yet and also used their tail retract unit. I have kept your drawing Alan for future reference if that's ok. and will persevere to find the perfect solution.
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Finally started a Chiltern Models 72 inch Hawker Sea Fury with fibreglass fuselage and wondering if anyone else has done this kit. My main query is the retracts which have a pre cut slot in the foam wing and are angled forward approx. 15 degrees so would have to turn the same when down. Anyone come across this previously? I know its an old one but looks good and have got a nice 30cc engine to stick in it.
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Hi to all the experts, I have been looking at this plan on Sarik and wondering if anyone else has built it. At 120 inch span not sure if it would fit in the car as the biggest I put in at present is 90 inch and the description does not say if the wings split, the picture looks like a one piece wing. Happy building.
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My Baronette has been flying for many years now. Converted it to electric, moved the C of G further forward than plan and mixed rudder with ailerons, flies a dream.
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That is how I had my ESC connected and worked fine, once you have flown it try it with a 3000KV motor, it's fantastic.
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I have posted some pictures previously on this thread but the mk2 is in the building queue at present. Will post as soon as I can. Try a 3000 motor and you will not be disappointed.
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Mainly inserts to take the undercarriage in the wings, a steerable nosewheel but has to give the nose an upward angle. The 3000Kv motor and 2500 battery. Separate servos for ailerons and elevators. Next one will also have a rudder and all moving elevators coupled to ailerons.
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After many flights I uprated mine to a 3000Kv motor and wow what a difference, I called it my rocket on rails. I had to fit undercarriage on mine as we fly off concrete. It did not lift off one day due the angle of attack with the air and it disintegrated at the end of the runway but will be building another with the mods incorporated that I tried on the Mk1. Overall a fantastic flyer.
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They are great, I got two of which one is powered and one is for the slope. I also still have my fox which is powered and is a delight to fly for fun.
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Tried a new 3000Kv motor with a 2500 lipo in my can doo yesterday and all I can say is WOW!!!!!! what a plane this is now. Its like flying a rocket but on rails but will still fly at a snails pace if wanted and all I can say is its a tribute to the designer. Will be building another with my mods for undercarriage built in and a rudder and thanks again to the designer for giving me such fun.
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These things can happen as I was having my first flight of a junkers, trimmed out and was flying perfectly when it suddenly decided to spiral from a good height with no response from the radio. Everything was still working perfectly on arrival and the Junkers was placed in our obligatory first flight bin bag. All the components are happily flying in different aircraft with no signs of any failure after bench testing so who knows what goes wrong sometimes?
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Cheers and will pass on the information to my flying buddies who for some reason have an aversion to balsa wood.
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Flew mine today in latest experiment. Used a 2700kv inrunner with a 5inch prop to give more ground clearance but required a small amount of weight at front. Took off great from runway and only required a small amount of extra up, flies great and now my club mates here in Spain all want one but want to try it in Depron so who knows what next is for the Can Doo?
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Could find how to add text to pictures but the rear wheels are just held on with U clamps and a ply support on the wing top. The front wheel is an old tail wheel simply taped on for trials. It requires quite a run and does not want to lift off when suddenly it is away. It does have a nose down stance which does not help but requires clearance for the prop and landings are a dream. My next trial will be to fit an inrunner which was on the mig from RCM&E free plan with a 5inch prop to give better ground clearance and lift the nose up.
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Finally plucked up the courage and fitted two wheels at the rear and one on the nose. Tracked in a straight line and rose off the ground beautifully. With a little trimming it flies great and feel as though it flies just the same as with no undercarriage. Landings are a little fast but who cares when landing on a concrete strip.
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I think that was what I saw and it does look good, thanks for the info and back to balsa bashing.
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That's what I was thinking but wondered if anyone had tried it as I would think it may upset the flight characteristics.
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No it just looked like a motor and fixed to motor mount or rails but looking at that one I suppose the front could be modded to enclose the motor as they are normally open.
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Anyone done it wheels as I have taken mine to my club in Spain and of course there is no grass?
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I remember seeing a while ago an article about an engine which was actually an electric motor. Anyone seen it as I have started doing some old timers and would like to try them as electric but they would not look right?
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New iron obtained and harmony restored but will carry on experimenting with old one. Teflon has already started to come off new one.
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Tried the high temp paint but it just wipes off so a failure will carry on experimenting. The problem I have with using it in its alloy state is the alloy appears to be coming off onto the yellow solartex I am currently covering with and marking it. I have not tried it as yet with solarfilm.
Chiltern Models
in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
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Thank you Alan P, I do like a challenge, I think I have a plan for the retracts and are ordered. Must admit the instructions and plans could have been a lot better but prefer the older kits as newer ones are less challenging, plan packs are even better.