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Daniel Cardona

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Posts posted by Daniel Cardona

    ACRO-WOT short nose or not? liteply bulkhead or not?

    in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans

    Posted

    Hello to all

    I currently started building a chriss foss acro-wot and I'm planning to use a laser 80, actually i was going to use a laser 75 but after putting it on the scales i saw that its a bit heavier than the 80 so since there have the same dimensions i opted to use the laser 80.

    anyway my dilemma is that the instructions give's you the option to shorten the front end to about 1 inch if large or heavy engines are going to be used. i guess this is to avoid the use of lead in the tail, apart to let the cowl fit. but i read somewhere here that acro-wots with a laser 75 flew well and without shorten the front end. so is its necessary to do so? the cowl seems that can be fitted without issues as well.

    also the front bulkhead is 3mm liteply sandwiched with 1.5mm birch ply, it seems many modellers avoid using it and replace the liteply with birch. were there any problems with the original design?

    i know that once chriss foss fitted a laser 75 to power his acrowot, i wonder if he did any of these mods

    any thoughts

    Regards

    Daniel

    Acrowot Build

    in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews

    Posted

    Hello to everyone

    i'm going to start my build of my acro-wot, can anyone pls help me with some questions?

    do i have to chance the front bulkhead? since its 3mm liteply sandwiched with 1.5mm birch ply

    seems everyone is changing them with a 6mm birch ply bulkhead. does there were any problems with the original design?

    i'm planning to use a laser 75 or maybe a laser 80 on mine.

    regards

    Daniel

    Acrowot Build

    in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews

    Posted

    i always use finishing resin for my hinges from the PACER brand, what i do is to drill a small hole in the middle of the hinge slot, pour some resin in the small hole so you can fill a bit the hinge slot and then some resin onto the hinge itself. i use the hairy type mylar hinges from greatplanes.

    the finishing resin is very strong once cured and gives plenty of time when hinging, but at first could be a bit messy so allways have rags and alcohol or white spirit nearby, so you can wipe out the excess from the model.

    regards

    daniel

    Acrowot Build

    in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews

    Posted

    Hello Guys

    I've recently got my acro-wot kit, i have and old but thrusty laser 75 doing nothing so i might using on this model. i have also a laser 80 but i think the 75 would be enough, my question is if i need to shorten the nose to accomodate the engine. does anyone can tell if it is necessary to shorten the nose when using 4- strokes on the acro wot?

    any toughts?

    regards

    Daniel

    Harlequin

    in Peter Miller plan builders

    Posted

    Nice akromaster jim! thats one of my favorite. a design very rarely seen. but i like a bit more the lines of the cranfield a1 too. nice british design

    1770780.jpg

    indexfzk.jpg

    expecially the one that used Hanno prettner, image a similar one with a 55 inch span a SC32 or a 40 fourstroke. nice for pattern style aerobatics

    i agree with kc aswell a peter miller day would be nice

    regards

    Daniel

    Harlequin

    in Peter Miller plan builders

    Posted

    I'm Maltese Jim, Sunny Maltacool. Peter cost me a little fortune too, but i dont regret anything. they all fly magnifically and they were all reasanble easy to build without needing a laser cut kit.

    keep it up peter! i wonder what's next......a Cranfield A1maybe? :-P or a Spinks acromaster? who knows

    Harlequin

    in Peter Miller plan builders

    Posted

    Jim your lovely harlequin may be costed you the same as an ARTF but now you have a unique model and the pride that you build it your self and to your own specs. something that an ARTF will never give, they certainly made progress to our hobby but with every progress come some regress as well.

    did you flew it? how much is the total weight of the model? btw those fairings that you add to the undercarriage came really nice

    regards

    Daniel

    Building the Nigel Hawes Whizzza

    in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews

    Posted

    If myhobbystore will produce a woodpack or even a laser cut kit i will be interested, IF the postage cost to malta will be fair enough YES for sure. i think it could be a winner. looking again at the plans it's really a straight foward model to build and does not need a lot of wood to be build either.

    i was also looking my stock of wood and for example i have the 4.5mm balsa sides that weight more or less from 43 to 48 grams, sheets longer than 36inch, i dont know if they are ok or not, maybe i would try to buy lighter balsa sheets.

    regards

    Daniel

    Building the Nigel Hawes Whizzza

    in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews

    Posted

    Hello to everyone

    I'm very tempted to build a whizzza after seeing a video on youtube of a finished model, it really flies great and precise. the problem is that i'm worried about the all up weight of the model. here in malta light weight balsa is not so common. medium weight and hard balsa are more available. how much the model must be in weight? and whats the limit? will it fly well on 3lbs ready to fly?

    regards

    Daniel

    SC 30 FOUR STROKE

    in IC Engines

    Posted

    Thank you guys for your kind support, yes patients is the key in these kind of things. but apperently after searching into other forums seems that ASP and SC 30 fs dont like to idle below 3000rpm and dont love a 10x6 prop altough its a willing engine, mine already had a 5 litres of fuel, starts almost imidiately and sounds great i'm sure there are no defects. i could maybe use a bigger prop with a low pitch lets say a 10x4 and see what happens.

    SC 30 FOUR STROKE

    in IC Engines

    Posted

    Hello to All

    I have a problem regarding my SC 30 FS, i currently ran it on my test bench as i'm planning to use it on new freshly build model.

    i was using a 9x6 prop and also used a 9.5x6 and even a 10x6 the fuel used was MODEL TECHNICS SUPAGLOW with 10% nitro and brand new OS F Glow plug. i always ran the engine a bit rich and make sure id does not run too hot. I find it difficult to set the idle, at 3000rpm was all good and transition from this speed to 9 or 1000rpm was fine. since i'm not very used to 4 sroke engine or lets say engines of small capacity i dont know if this is normal or not.

    i was aiming to get at least about 2500 rpm on idle but the engine wasn't reliable when throttling up even on nose up addittude. I'M not a newbie in setting up glow engines but as i say i'm not used to small capacity glow engines

    any toughts and advive anyone??!

    regards

    Daniel

    Alex Whittaker's Bushwacker

    in Trainer kits

    Posted

    Does any body knows how much should be the dihedral angle under each wing of the Bushwacker?

    i was reading through the back issues of the RCME were there was an article of the building stages of the bushwhacker wing. Mrs whittaker states that he popped up one wing at 4 1/2 inch under the tip giving a dihedral angle of 2 1/4 under each wing.

    now the dihedral brace shown on the plans actually gives a dihedral angle of just 1 3/8 under each wing

    which one is correct???

    Alex Whittaker's Bushwacker

    in Trainer kits

    Posted

    Why change it? because it's fun..making a model with your personal spec's and taste it the fun part of building. it's like having two hobbies instead as one, building and flying.

    anyway i'm still thinking if i do the mods or not, reading your msg to my answer i tempted to leave it as a 3 channel model, but does anyone here build one ? doesn't seem to be a popular model....well after all it's a trainer. but i would like to see a flight review of this model

    anyway here is the progress so far

    http://www.modelflying.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=23269

    regards

    Daniel

    Alex Whittaker's Bushwacker

    in Trainer kits

    Posted

    Hello to all

    i've just started to build a bushwacker ,and i'm still in the early building stages. i started with he fuselage and i trying to add some optionals to the bushwacker. i'm planning to build it to accept I.C power and E power as well. i'm thinking to build a removable tail too

    does anyone can tell me how the model fly's with 3 channel only? i never had a 3 channel model so i dont know how they behave. i was considering to add barn doors ailerons but should i leave the dihedral as it is?

    since know the building i s really fun, the model is quite simple to build. i love the retro style of it and should be nice to have something relaxed to fly

    cheers

    Daniel

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