gangster
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Posts posted by gangster
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I guess when we refer to a Super 60 we are generally talking 3 channel. However the 4 channel and the low wing Super 60 are all their own models. The low wing version is a real pleasure to fly. The Junior 60 Is another animal all together but it is fun to use a whole different set of skills. Fly in the wind? Oh yes it’s fun. Hover it, nearly vertical take off and landing fly backwards. This has made me want to get mine out and gear it up and get it out there. Plan is to gear it up with vintage RCM&E or Micron gear
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On 07/02/2023 at 12:43, Martian said:
Dont forget a first aid kit ,who hasn't mannage not to operate on themselves whilst using a scalpel ,only last week I added to my countless scars whilst using an orthopaedic v20 easily cut through skin,vein into bone just as it was made to do ,copious amounts of blood healthy colour to .
Many years ago a mate of mine told me that if you get blood on a model during building it it’s will fly well. You know what 40 odd years on I think he was right
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Yep just me being thick/ blind. I can see the inlet on the plan now on closer inspection and it is visible in the photos I have now also seen the note on the top of the plan. Thanks for your help and for humouring me guys 👍
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Thanks Trevor. I better have another look at the plan and mag article. Don’t know how I missed them unless they were not on the free plan.
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Ah shortened cowl. That explains it. Will just make a larger hole below in front and also have a think where the heat exit will go Probably in bottom sheet. Tempted by the servos at the back and hopefully the balance issue will be offset by the moter being a tad further forwardThanks for your ideas
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3 hours ago, EarlyBird said:
1 hour ago, EarlyBird said:Same motor turnigy 3536 900 kv. I built the cowl to fit the motor. Like this
What motor have you used? On mine there seems to be less clearance around the prop shaft The front of my motor extends into the front of the cowl with a tapered hole to allow it clearance to rotate. I have used a turning 3536/8 spaced from the bulkhead 6mm
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47 minutes ago, EarlyBird said:
What motor have you used? On mine there seems to be less clearance around the prop shaft The front of my motor extends into the front of the cowl with a tapered hole to allow it clearance to rotate. I have used a turning 3536/8 spaced from the bulkhead 6mm
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36 minutes ago, EarlyBird said:
The outlet can be seen on the right hand side of the blue bit, half of it, but it's the only picture I can find in my build.
Thanks for that. It looks like you have gone for a single cockpit version and rearranged bulkheads accordingly and put nice big cutouts in them to improve airflow.I like the extra hole in the cowl, I had that in mind. possibly slots in the lower sheet behind the firewall. Not sure if I have sufficient holes in the formers to exit through the cockpit
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In the process of completing an Ohmen. I notice there appears to be no provision for airflow over the motor or esc. The motor is a close fit in the cowl and the spinner pretty much obscures the hole in the front. There appears to be no exit vent. I recall an article by the WOO describing, by means of an analogy to our own digestive system, that the exit needed to be much larger than the inlet
Have other builders made provision for cooling or had issues?
For newer readers the WOO was a very respected and knowledgeable contributor to the mag (search WOO or Brian Winch on this site
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My money is on Copydex. It is a latex glue so it won’t eat the foam but will grap like an impact adhesive I has been around for ever but is still available.
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I have never enjoyed sheeting over curved formers, I have tried cyno,pins and sticky tape and a few other method. Alway ends in tears before I get it right
Today I was sheeting the top deck of an Ohmen and came up with the idea of double sided Velcro . Wide straps are less likely to cut in and unlike sticky tape can be removed and adjusted without damage.
So chuffed I felt the need to share.
If however there are better ideas I would love to hear them-
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Look in my dogs bed. It will be there
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Sounds like you have a great set of tools for modelling. I shiould not be too concerned not having an electric f etsaw you will do most things with the bandsaw and the sander. Have you thought about some of the RCME free plans look at the Peter Miller or Lindsey Todd designs. Fantastic models and if you do wish you can get the ribs laser cut from Sarik. Your choice if you get the pack or cut your own If you are not sure compare the cost! Lots of good designs to go for. Have a look at the Dawn Flyer. Hound Dog or Ohmen. Lots of othe good ones too. Don’t forget that there will be build threads on this very forum, together with lots of fellow modellers on here that have actuallly built them. If you choose a design put the name into the search function on here or even Google. If there are any amendments, plan errors or mods they will be on here
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21 hours ago, Nigel Heather said:
Just renewed mine. Went okay but I found the BMFA poorly implemented in place - the biggest issue was that when you have finished and dare to click the button requesting a PDF invoice it locks up the application.
One mistake I may have made purely down to my misunderstanding is how I have handled the Operator registration.
I decided to do the CAA test for Flyer ID rather than the BMFA one and I assumed that meant that I would have to pay my £10 direct to the CAA. So when it came to BMFA renewal I did not check the ‘pay CAA’. I now suspect that I could have checked it and paid the CAA through the BMFA even though I did the test with the CAA. But it seems that it is too late now because as far as I can tell the BMFA app does not allow me to go back and pay the CAA fees.
I assume now that somehow I will be contacted by the CAA to make payment to them when my Operator ID expires.
Depends whether you have paid or not. If you have forgotten to add BMFA or CAA you can go back by simply removing the whole thing from your basket. Then start again
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4 minutes ago, John Tee said:
You can add the plastic card. It comes up after the member renewal. Only problem I had with that was last year a couple of members who renewed themselves wanted the club to do the card which caused a few problems when they shouild have done it themselves.
John
Thanks John sounds like it comes up with the same page as it does if you pick them off one at a time which only takes a few seconds
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9 minutes ago, RottenRow said:
If you are already able to renew the memberships of club members other than just yourself then you already have admin. rights on the membership portal.
There is a tile on there, under My Club, titled Bulk Renewal. Click on it and you will be able to see how it works for yourself. Much easier than trying to explain things step by step.
You can renew any membership (BMFA or CAA) as long as it is within the period allowed for renewals. You can't add the plastic card as far as I know but we don't have anyone with one so can't say for certain. At present the CAA renewals are greyed out on the bulk renewal page (due to them not expiring within the next 28 days, hopefully something that can get sorted out soon).
Brian.
Will have to have a look I cannot see how it helps over the process of doing them one at a time and the greying out of the CAA seems to make it harder. The renewal portal seems great now they have ironed the bugs out
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1 hour ago, john stones 1 - Moderator said:
We have internet banking now, more pay online now than any other method, worth doing Gangster.
Something to look into for the new year. I suppose I am lacking enthusiasm to change the account based on past experience. I was treasurer for a different organisation and changes were impossible That organisation was not represented in the high street. They ignored letters and the phone was answered by monkeys. To change club officers involved getting a form which the mmonkeys would not send and if you did get one they ignored it. This went on time after time . When I went to draw from the deposit account it transpired that they had never changed the signatories and I had a struggling to find all three ladies who had long left the club . They needed to authorise the change although they had not been club members for years. There had been numerous changes over the years that the bank had been notified of. To further complicate things I had recently set up a second deposit account only a couple of years earlier and it transpired that they had set it up with the same three old dears as signatories. In reality how does internet banking work for a club where you need two out of three signatories for a payment. That is where it could fall down for our club even if the bank made it work
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22 minutes ago, Cuban8 said:
Use the bulk renew facility. I put 95% of renewals through in one go just after Christmas.
To encourage people to renew promptly before New Year, ages ago we put our subs up by £15 but then offered a discount for paying before 1st January - works like a charm. Always call it a discount rather than something negative like rejoining fee, late payment charge or something similar that will irritate people- everyone loves a discount!
Never tried the bulk renew but how does that work that we have options like plastic card CAA etc
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How about using a voltage regulator BEC. Check out Nexus they have a whole range of voltages/ variable maybe you can find something that will regulate to 7.4 volts. Another thought that goes through my mind is whether the servos can be powered by the big battery but the rx powered by either a smaller battery/ bec. To do this would require some isolation eg no connection to the red wire I haven’t tried this but I bet it has been done or whether such an isolation box is available. All sort of magic boxes for larger models.
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Personally as a membership secretary I would be happier to do the BMFA/CAA for the whole club as that gives a confirmation that everyone complies. As far as the renewal portal is concerned that has evolved well and I find it very user friendly. Someone on here mentioned the bulk renew fir a club. How does that work? Not everyone rejoins and now there is the added complications of plastic cards and CAA. Yes the closure of banks is an issue but paying in cheques is possible via the Post Office. We do not have internet banking at the moment, it’s a Luddite hobby and I suspect less than half the club would pay by transfer and setting anything up with a bank for a club seems to be a tedious process. Sadly members do not realise the sheer amount of work involved the membership secretary role. Like life in general those who think it simple are always those who sit on their hands at the agm when the jobs come up.
Another plus for the BMFA. Who remembers the old sticker system? That was brilliant for its time way easier to use than the method used by another similar sized governing body in another sport
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Welcome to the hobby. I am so sorry that you have wandered into this can of worms. You have been put into a difficult situation. As a starter you will feel the need to respect the advice of your new colleague’s but on the other had you could be affected by their predudices. As someone has already mentioned you cannot get a bad make of radio. That T8J is a nice radio I have used one for 9 years and in my mind has a perfect range of facilities. I also have the old Spectrum DX8. Same age and again I love it and again it’s never given a moments concern. At the risk of upsetting the Futaba diehards I have always felt the Spectrum felt better quality. So my way forward would be hold fast to your Futaba, don’t let the Spekky nuts in your club tell you the Futaba is no good. That make has more dedicated followers than any other make. If you need to link to Spektrum for training I would look to one of the work arounds that have been suggested Maybe get a secondhand Spektrum DX6 use it for training or as someone else suggested an older model Futaba for them to train you with as master TX. You have got a good radio so personally I would see it as a waste of money to change your radio based on someone else’s predudices Having said that I bought a set of Futaba and a Spektrum at the same time so If you can afford to do that then there is no reason not to
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6 hours ago, BSR said:
I have the Bowman Sportsman, been lovingly restored right down to the fake aerial running over the back and with period SLEC fittings and 148 servos. Engine will be a TT54 Fourstroke once I get it running smoothly. Had a 48 Surpass but didn't have the power. I have the plan too, all be it faded somewhat. Cowl was smashed and its the last piece of the puzzle. The Sportsman was actually issued under a few brands from what I can see, Bowman Models, Olympic Models and Hegi. If anybody has a cowl I could borrow to make a mould.... 🙂
The Olympic Sportsman was one of my first RC models. I got very excited when I went into Anglia Models just after they moved. That model was on a list of sale models they had. Sadly it was gone
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5 minutes ago, leccyflyer said:
Only one connector needs to remain in place in the transmitter though, so if concerned with frequent making and breaking of that connection, with a 2s1p lipo typically fitted with three leads, it's possible to do a balance charge with the lipo still connected to the transmitter battery port.
Quite so … but This could start a debate as to whether the battery should be fast charged whilst still physically residing in the TX. I will put me tin hat on and watch from a distance. I know one supplier advocated charging in an hour 4 Amps.
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13 minutes ago, Peter Jenkins said:
Replace a 4.8 v NiMH with 2S LiPo. OK provided the Tx circuitry can cope with 8.4 v against 5.5 v from a fully charged 4 cell NiMH. If it can then fine but if not......then use a 2 S LiFe 7.2 v max off charge.
It’s cosher with the DX8 the manufacturers supply one as an option. It slow charges via the standard charger and claims to deal with its own balance and regulation. Display actually shows 8volts Third party suppliers sell 2s lipos for them but they need to be charged out the TX. Not sure that the connector really benefits from too much connection and disconnection
Motor Size
in All Things Model Flying
Posted
So if you have calibrated the esc to the 0 to 100 range then reset the travel to , say 50%. Surely the esc will see it as the stick being pushed only half way up , but in reality you will have the full throw of the stick. Worked on my super 60 and I had 120 watts max out of the 450 watt motor no issues at all. Must be calibrated to 100% first.