stuey

Here is a pic of my velcro arrangement, may make more sense now. Gives me the flexibility of forward and back adjustment, and hopefully security too.

Here are a couple of pics of my F-16, painted in what I like to call a hi-vis camo scheme, if that makes sense!

On my F-16 i have got velcro along the length of the battery and the fuz, with a velcro strap at 90deg to it half way along epoxied in so it looks like a cross. It gives you the chance to move it back and forth, and the security of a strap around the cell so it can't detach itself from the velcro (in theory!!) I will try and add a pic later to make it clearer.

I am using TP 3S 2200 extreme v2, plenty of power for vertical, i run for about 6 1/2 minutes with a bit to spare. Can't say i would want any more power personally.

I dont know what servos come with the set, but if it comes with 4 digi servos i would guess the pack should be capable of driving them without the receiver voltage being compromised??

I think a lot of the high capacity AA Nimh cells have a lot of internal resistance and cannot stand a high load without the voltage dropping. When i was racing 1/10 electric buggies and Nimh cells appeared, they lacked "punch", the ability to deliver power under high loads. It took quite a while for the cells to develop and improve to the same level as the old Nicads. I reckon there is a chance that Nimh cells that have a lower capacity for the same cell size, may have lower IR and may be more suitable for high power servo requirements. Anyone able to test this??

Thanks for all of the advice. I just remembered that i know an engine man who tunes and rebuilds for the 1/8 Rallycross racing guys, has years of experience. I will see if he can help me before i get the hammer out!!

I don't mind getting the bearings, its the dismantling and rebuilding i wouldn't fancy too much. My Irvine 53 seems to have suffered too, it sounds like the front bearing has got noisy in that as well. I have read a post somewhere about the techniques of changing them, i'd rather leave it to someone who knows what they are doing to be honest.

Thanks for the replys guys, suppose theres not much to lose trying it. I will give it a bit of after run without the plug then try starting it. If a load of rusty looking oil comes out that may be a sign!!!

Hi, i have a SC52 Four stroke which has seen better days. It has spent 2 winters in my old workshop/shed, it did have background heating and a moisture trap which may have helped. Anyway, it has not run that much, and now feels a bit notchy. I did put after run oil in when it was last run, but over 2 years is a long time to sit around! I am guessing the bearings may have corroded, along with some of the other internals possibly. Is there anyone around that does engine repairs etc, although it may not be worth doing... would serve me right i suppose.

I would have done that, except i was given the impression that more movement the better on this model!!

I was trying to flick my rates on to calm it down first flight but i had my hands full trying to stop it ploughing into the deck! I reckon i was about 1 second from it going in at the worst point. I wish i had started it on 75% rates but i was told to go for the max movement i could get by the shop i bought it from. I did start with the settings in the manual, found them far too much even with 20% expo. Just glad i got it down to try again I was going to go for a mainly grey scheme with some highlights, changed my mind now i have seen it flying (or not see it more like!) Shaun, did you paint over the plastic covering thats on the wings and tail?

Hi, I have just built and flown my new Phase 3 F-16 and wanted to offer my 2p's worth on it. Firstly, unless i am going mad the instructions on setting up the servos for left and right appear to be wrong, ie the wrong way round. This is from the perspective of sitting in the cockpit. The second thing i did to try and give the underneath some protection was to cover the whole bottom moulding with light weight tissue and poly-c. This seems to have worked quite well, i have used 4 coats, the first to stick the damp tissue on. Another thing i would suggest is if you are using a 170g plus Lipo like my TP 3S 2200 i would move the fan back say 45mm rather than 40mm, as the Lipo did not leave me a lot of room for the receiver to fit behind it (balanced at approx 170mm from trailing edge of wing) The last point i have is regarding the control throws. I don't know if i have a freak model, but the settings in the manual are far too much!!! I nearly lost it first flight what with trying to trim it right and up while fighting the model attempting to do 3D manouveres. I haven't measured them yet, but my second flight was with 60% rates on both with 20% expo. The roll was much better, still a bit too much elevator imo. I hope this may help someone, it seems like a good model once trimmed and calmed down

I have been told by Motors and Rotors the motor will fit an Alfa edf model, could be a good home? I don't know the specs of the Phase 3 motor, even though i have a new F16 in the box, i haven't looked yet!!

"You can actually connect the battery to any socket as the pos and neg are on a strip. If you need to, connect the servo and the battery to the socket via a Y lead" Thats what i thought but i wasn't 100% sure.

I take it this is an electric model?? Is it a 3 function (rudder, elevator, throttle) or 4 (aileron, elevator, throttle, rudder)? The ESC will normally power the receiver through channel 3 via the BEC, unless you are using a seperate receiver pack. In this case i believe you would use a Y lead to connect the receiver pack/switch and rudder servo if its a 4 function model to channel 4 on the receiver.

Nope, just trying to be helpful to my fellow modellers. I work for a well known telecomms company I got the link from a thread on the ezone, dated some 5  years ago. If its a problem please scrub this thread

I haven't paid anything for it, i just clicked on continue and it works. EDIT i think it might have a 21 day evaluation period...

Hi, hope this is ok to post. I found a few years ago now a program which can print out patterns for an EDF tailcone, or other needs. You put in the dimensions of the cone (diameter each end and length) and it prints a pattern. I used this in my Kyosho F16 to make a suitable tailcone for a Minifan and it worked well. The link is http://www.pulserate.com/ Thought this might be useful for someone out there