Roger M. Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Hi Tom very interested in your progress, think Santa might be bringing me one of the same shortly. Have you decided on what engine to use. I am just little worried that a 40 four stroke might be a bit marginal for the size and weight. Roger M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted December 14, 2012 Author Share Posted December 14, 2012 Hi Roger thank You for input. I am going to use OS .40FS, already got one - if it will be marginal, Ill just repleace it, but want to see, how prototype performed. Right now build is suspended - we moved a few weeks back, now everything is getting back to normal. For me Santa will bring covering iron, few meters of Solartex and some other bits and bobs. I dont think I'll touch it this year, but she only needs covering and aileron servos... Regards Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 I look forwards to seeing this one done, she looks fabulous! I think the OS 40FS will be fine for this one, DB recommend 35-40 four stroke. You have done a lovely job on the aeroplane, keep up the good work! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted December 16, 2012 Author Share Posted December 16, 2012 Thanks a lot CSB!! Let's hope she can fly as same as she looks on the photos... And doesn't matter I maidened the Spit and Sharky and feel quite confident, I am not even gonna try - instead will join the club at last and of course will beg Josh for help. Cheers Edited By Major on 16/12/2012 17:35:36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 After short brake it's time to get back and finish her. I visited Blackburn model shop today, got some white Solartex, glue, bolts, and some other bits and bobs. Today I hope to cover tail and ailerons, glue and sand some fairings, but as I never worked with 'tex before, need to read some info. Some pictures to follow in few hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Gibson Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Nice one Tom I'm looking forward to those pictures.... Dale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 So I did have little fun with Solartex... Covered both stabs and rudder, but I'm not quite sure if I did it right. Could anybody tell me, what exactlly means "drum tight" in case of 'tex? It looks streched, when I tap it, seems to be fine, it also does reacts for strong blows from electric fan. Not to mention, it also bends surfaces when applied to one side, so I would say that will do. But under the pressure from finger it is still soft, I can easily press it down about 2 mm and not pressing hard. Confused... Dale I am very sorry, but forgot to charge phone, now it is totally dead so I can't take any pics. It took me longer than I suspected. But will upload some later. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 So here comes the tail Hinges are in place, surfaces look nice and straight... My pain is caused by curves, can't get them looking good, but it's not bad as well. Next thing about 'tex. In my workshop usual temperature is about 12*. Today I noticed, that covering is a little stiffer than yesterday and I suppose it's thanks to temp. But how it's gonna look like during hot days? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 Moving on... Took me a while, but now I have fixed engine and covered fuselage. I don't know why I glued cabane struts in place before covering, these needed to be removed to make it looking ok. This white Solartex is amazing stuff. Doesn't look that bright of course, my iron leaves black and grey stains, but overall effect is awesome. Tex itself is much easier to work with than I expected, after few hours and few pieces binned, I learnt some basics, but still have a problem with curves. Now I understand what means "under covering everything can be seen" - forgot to sand fairings, luckily it's just one point on each side ot the fuse. I must say, I start to love this covering. So what's left to do hatches - already cut struts wing (covering and servos to be placed) throttle servo undercarriage fairings wheel pants (I can order them, but shape is shown on the plan, I'll make them myself) cockpit (sticker + pilot) fuel tank (by the way - can I use epoxy instead of silicone to seal front of the tank?) and I hope it'd be it. Cheers Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 Brilliant, lovely engine too. By 'sealing it' do you mean holding it in place? If so, I usually pack it in foam. If it needs holding at the front, then silicone so you can get it out again. CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 No, no. I meant "seal the front so no fuel can get into the fuselage". I am grounded at home and can't leave, as one of my kids is sick, but have only epoxy. I think it should do with vibration without any problems, yet I'll be able to take it out if needed, but to be honest - can't find any reason to do so... Thanks for post CSB. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 Some more has been done. Tail is glued to the fuselage. To have better joint, I added two light balsa strips Photo was taken after only one was glued in place. Then tail followed, I also added two light pieces of 1/4 sheet to extend fuselage's line Before and after After that, I put back in place cabane struts, so now my Corben looks like that Tail is fully working now, fus is nearly done. Hatches need to be placed, bottom covered and cockpit fitted. I hope to do it today. Cheers Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Stocker - Formerly, DB Sport and Scale Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hey Tom, What a super job you are doing (You make sure you keep that blinkin door locked) if anyone comes barging in through there you'll end up crying over a pile of bits, I hate seeing grown men cry. This looks like it will be a very nice aircraft when it's done. Eddie. Edited By Eddie Stocker - DB Sport and Scale on 21/01/2013 09:17:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hey Eddie! Luckily most of my modelling takes place during the night, when kids sometimes sleep and nobody comes to us, so the plane is safe. It will be nice aircraft of course, but some of my building mistakes unfortunately will be visible. I am still amazed by Solartex - it just looks great, kinda pure..As to the pile of bits - I hope it's not the fate of her... Thank You very much for input Eddie. Regards Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Stocker - Formerly, DB Sport and Scale Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hi Tom, Don't be hard on yourself over covering or building errors, we all had to begin somewhere, and this is looking pretty good if it's your first proper kit build. Regarding fateful bits, if you can fly a plane OK, the Ace will be a doddle to you. It will fly as docile as a trainer, or you can carve groves in the sky if that is the mood that takes you. When you first fly her, after she gets initially rolling away, you can let the elevator come to neutral and she will lift off by herself when she reaches flying speed. That is due to the flat bottomed wing, you will no doubt find that when she's flying normally, you may well need to introduce a couple of clicks of down trim to keep her flying at a constant level for that throttle setting (as with a full size with a flat bottomed wing) Eddie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 Eddie yes, it is my first serious build. Before this I built 2x Sharkface (both flying well), Scamp, Mini Tyro and some Guillow's kits. Baby Ace is huge compared to any of those, there was a lot of new things and techniques to use (like fairings, dowels as pushrods, metal struts glued by paper tape and aliphatic, using thread etc...). Overall effect is nice, I am happy with it anyway, but I see what could be done better, I learnt new things to incorporate in future builds. I'm not hard on myself, just try to do my best . Thanks for the advice on flying her. However I don't think I will maiden her myself, instead I think about going to the club. I did fly Spitfire from ParkZone, but never had a proper landing - just on the belly, and that of course had its price. Anyway - with this engine I wouldn't try to fly her in public park in city centre - don't even want to think what could happen if things go pear shaped. Regards Tom PS I wish I could purchase form You CNC kit of Cessna 182, but have not seen any on Your website... Instead, I have an Auster in mind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Stocker - Formerly, DB Sport and Scale Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Nice one Tom, About the flying, if you can already take off, do circuits and land, fly it yourself. The reason I say that is because we know of a few others that have entrusted their beloved new build to who they consider to be (an experienced pilot) only to end up with a pile of bits and a comment like "Ugh, the radio failed". That is not to say that there aren't good pilots out there who can and do maiden fly other peoples aircraft, and they are very good at it, but please do your homework on whoever it is first to be sure of a satisfactory outcome. Here is a section of the instructions for flying the Auster, you will see what we mean, the Baby Ace can be compared to it. FLYING Do wait for a calmish day for the test flights, and if you have only limited experience in flying R/C models, get a proficient modeller to carry out the test flights. There is no point in ruining many hours of work in a few minutes through being too shy or too proud to ask. That said, it is very IMPORTANT to try to avoid asking someone who regularly flies in prop hanging fashion, as this person may well have a tendency to do the same with your new model. While this person may well be a very accomplished flier, your aircraft will not fly this way, and attempts to do so will definitely result in disaster. Your aircraft needs to be flown in a normal fixed wing manner of long take off’s & landings. If you have flown a high wing trainer model and you should have learned to fly R/C models before entering into ANY scale model, you will find the flying of the Auster to be absolutely straightforward. It is difficult to write very much about the flying characteristics of the Auster, it performs similarly to the original aircraft slow, leisurely and predictable. Slow fly-pasts, touch and go’s, three point landings are achievable and it is capable of performing all the maneuvers of the prototype i.e / loops and stall turns. It will do more exotic maneuvers but the Auster is not the type of aircraft that looks right cavorting around the sky. You will get ample satisfaction from flying slowly and accurately and giving yourself a chance to watch the model in flight. Regarding a Cessna, it is something that we wouldn't undertake, we already have a very large range of aircraft, more than enough for just me & Jude to keep up with (sorry). Eddie. Edited By Eddie Stocker - DB Sport and Scale on 21/01/2013 19:13:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 You have a good point here, Eddie. But this stick has two ends - I will not kich my butt if something goes wrong, and from other side - I may not perform as good as somebody more experienced. Hmm, we'll see yet, I got time. From this description it doesn't look too hard to perform, I had few take-offs with my FMS Cessna, no problems whatsoever with it. I also trained approaches with and without flapperons with my PZ Spit, and if I only chose weather wisely - everything would be ok, sometimes wind was just far too strong, but no way I'm gonna be so reckless with Baby. I was looking for Cessna kit as 182 is my favourite, but You do have some kits for me anyway, so expect call from me anytime . Cheers Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Stocker - Formerly, DB Sport and Scale Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 "Top Tip" Tom, IMMEDIATELY before flying, stand with behind your plane with the aircraft aiming away from you, check all of your control directions:- If on mode 2, push right stick to the right, the starboard (right) aileron should come up, the port (left) down, push the same stick left for the exact opposite effect on the ailerons. Pull the right stick back, the elevator should come up, push it forward and it goes down. Now using your left stick, push it to the right, the rudder should move to the right, and left for left. OK, you may well already know this, but very often, excitement & a little nervousness overcomes these checks on the field (even long time fliers make such mistakes). If all is as it should be, go ahead. Eddie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 You've done a great job on her, she looks lovely! Whether or not you undertake the maiden is your decision, I'm lucky enough to have test pilot Dad to fly my ones before I crash them! Nice job on the covering, the white over the stringers reminds me of when I was covering my Domino, somehow... CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 That is thing to remember. I almost always do perform pre-flight checks, at home and on the field. I forgot once and found reverse ailerons - my daughter was playing with Tx at home. That was a good lesson. What makes me nervous is just the landing alone - belly landing in tall, often wet grass is a bit different than normal 2-pointer, which I done just few times before . But till then I will have some training with my Spit, before taking electronics from it. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 21, 2013 Author Share Posted January 21, 2013 Thanks CSB. Covering looks really amazing, I am very happy with the effect, but some vinyls will need to be placed onto the fuselage, to cover the signs of tuition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Gibson Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Looking good Tom, really coming together now.....great progress!! Dale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 Thank You Dale. Now also bottom of fuselage is covered, currently I'm working on cockpit - floor, instrument panel (not any scale one, just a sticker) and connecting switch harness. By the way, Eddie, could you tell me please, how to make windscreen? In particular - what glue should I use, or how to attach it to the fuse? Tonight I'm gonna order some servos for wing, and if my lady doesn't moan - additional 3m of Solartex.There is chance she (I mean Corben) will be RTF by the end of this week. Regards Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie Stocker - Formerly, DB Sport and Scale Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Hi Tom, To do the screen, cut a template from a ceareal box and test fit it before cutting the screen material. One way is to cut a basic hollowed out half moon shape (with the straight line of the half moon, curved slightly towards the outer curvarure). It is good to incorporate little tabs as you cut the inner curve so that these can be inserted & glued into small knife slits in the top coaming. Remember, get the template right first. Gorrilla glue is good, or you can use cyano, it will hold the tabs tight as well. Eddie Edited By Eddie Stocker - DB Sport and Scale on 22/01/2013 14:06:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.