Jim Davy Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I am in need of some advice. I bought a second hand kit, a Kyosho Soaris Spors motor glider, at a swop meet two years ago and I'm just getting round to setting it up. I have an EM Cyclon 30 class outrunner I am planing to use and I have a 60A Turnigy speed controler which I hope will be up to coping with the setup. Acording to the spec that came with the motor it will take 25A continuous and 35A peak, with a 20 degree timing.I am thinking of using a 3s LiPo to keep the diameter of the prop down. What I need to know is what prop diameter and pitch would be suitable for this set up? Next question is what make of folding prop is the best . I've heard that motor load and performance can vary for two identical props of different makes. The diameter where the nose terminates is 42mm, so I suppose a 40mm spinner is what I should be looking for? I'd be grateful if any of you guys can give me some advice. Cheers, Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Well as its a powered glider you are probably looking for short bursts of high power only to get you up and away, so should be OK to get up to around the 35A figure - this unloads in the air anyway, by as much as 20% or so. This motor has a fairly low Kv of 960 which should swing a biggish prop ( which is what you want for a glider - large diameter, low pitch for plenty of "grunt" ) Not sure what you mean by "I am thinking of using a 3s LiPo to keep the diameter of the prop down." I would reckon somewhere around a 11 x 6 prop on 3s should be Ok - but you really should use a wattmeter to confirm the current draw. I like the graupner folders that puffin models do, complete with nice ali spinner with cooling hole.... they also do a wattmeter for very good price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Davy Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Thanks for the advice Timbo. I’ll give an 11x6 a try and see how many amps she draws. I have a tong amp meter I could use. I have heard that it should be connected round the plus lead between the battery and the speed controller, is that right? As for using a 3s LiPo as opposed to a 2s to keep the diameter down, I reckoned that with a 3s I would get more revs (KV x volts) and should reduce the diameter so as not to overload the motor and speed controller. However I’m pretty new to this electrickery stuff and might have got it wrong. As far as determining how many watts the setup draws, isn’t it just a matter of multiplying the volts the LiPo gives times the amps shown on the tong amp meter, or is that oversimplifying things? Another thing I’m not too sure about is that the bumf that came with the motor states it can be timed between 20 and 30 degrees??? What does that mean, and how do I go about changing the timing? I’ll have a look at Pufin’s spinners to see what they’ve got, though I will have to see what cut the GPO (do they still deliver post?) takes as I left Manchester many years ago and now live in Stockholm, Sweden. On another note, I must offer my sympathy having red about the incident with your Jart………It’s surprising how crowded the airspace can get even when there’re only two models flying. Keep up the great work with these threads; it’s a great inspiration, informative and entertaining. I only wished I had taken up flying whilst I lived in England. My parents lived in Devon and when I see what great slope soaring sights you guys have access to I can’t help but feel a little envious. The only consolation I have is our clubs annual sojourn down to Skone in the south of Sweden. That’s where you have to stop to avoid getting wet before hitting Denmark. Those sea breezes are just incredible compared to the slopes we have where I live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Hi Jim - I think you may have copied and pasted some text here, as we have some strange symbols appearing in your post! Its probably just your terminology re: the prop size and cell count - your not trying to keep the diameter down - your trying to keep the amps manageable FOR THE PROP YOU WANT / NEED. Watts equals current times volts YES, it is as simple as that Most outrunners prefer "hard timing" 20 - 30 degrees will be fine. harder timing can sometimes produce more power, but at the expense of efficiency, and higher current of course. o change the timing you need to know the programming sequence for your particular ESC. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Davy Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 Hi Timbo-Just to let you know I checked out Puffin models, and a few others around the globe for availability and price and indeed they do a real good deal. In fact I gave them a call yesterday and ordered two spinners and a few folding props, (I have another powerd glider on the go as well) Postage was extremly reasonable, and a good reception from the staff. Thanks for the tip.-Jim PS HTH ??? ( I'm not too familiar with this chat short hand.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 HTH = hope that helps John Emms at Puffin is usually good, and they actually have excellent prices on A123 packs too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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