David Davis

April 2

Oh I'm not beating myself up about it Leccy but in addition to the models mentioned above I have five unstarted kits still in their boxes: a Hawker Hurricane, a Stampe Monitor, a Supra Star, a Super Kaos Junior and a quarter scale Fokker triplane. Then there's that DSM Aerostar in need of refurbishment and that Flying Flea I inherited when my best friend died over twenty years ago but as you say it's a hobby not a job.

No wonder the garden's in such a state!

April 2

I don't suppose that this applies to everyone but it does apply to some of us. Why is it that if we have a model to finish, or several models to finish, that we start to build another?

Take my case. I just need to fit the radio, engine and undercarriage to a Galaxy Models "Mystic," I have a DB Sport & Scale Auster in a similar condition and I need to repair the wing of my Guidato after the dog had jumped on it, and yet I am tempted to start building another Junior 60! If I build it, it will be the fourth which I have built and that's not counting the Junior 60 which I helped my protégé Frans to build. I have both an OS 26 FS Surpass and an ASP30 FS which are currently unemployed but I'm tempted to build it very light, cover it in doculam and tissue, which will be a first for me, and power it with a 15 two-stroke. I have a roll of Micafilm which I could use but that looks awful! So I have the materials and the plan and the temptation but I'm kicking myself now for having given away a brand new Enya 15 last year! Mind you those old Enyas require an awful lot of running in so the neighbours have been spared!

The Junior 60 was my first successful RC model so that may have influenced my thinking. There are better trainers, not that I need a trainer these days, but I just love the way the Junior 60 just seems to hover in calm air.

I'll let you know if I start cutting balsa. Two of my previous J60s below, one with my much younger self! My first one was covered in olive drab nylon. The dullest-looking Junior 60 you ever saw!

PS. As for the dog jumping on the Guidato's wing, it was my fault. I had incarcerated her in the van for too long when I was in England for a few weeks last year, and she made a bid for freedom damaging the Super Sixty's wing and that of the Big Guff too. I've repaired the Super Sixty and the damage to the Big Guff's wing is only superficial.

PPS. In all of the Junior 60s I have built I have used standard servos, mostly Hitec HS 311s. For this new projected Junior 60 I plan to fit lighter servos. I have a Savox SH-0255mg sculling about. If I were to buy two more, would they be suitable for the Junior 60?

April 1

I was once on the phone to Mr Eiflander, the manufacturer of PAW model diesel engines. He told me that his main business was in making parts for machines which are used in hospitals, so the engines were just a sideline.

I built and flew my first r/c aircraft in 1988 having built free flight and control line models in the Sixties. In 1988 every model on the flight line was built by the pilot or purchased second hand and they all had an i/c engine in the nose. Today most of the models at my club's flying field are electric powered ARTFs. C'est la vie.

However, some of us like engines for some unfathomable reason and enjoy getting them to run properly. Some of us don't mind cleaning a little oil off the side of the model at the end of the day and some of us like the sense of satisfaction you get from building a model from scratch and watching it take flight, but we are a disappearing minority.

Those of us who like engines may bemoan the paucity of new ones which are available but given the fact that so many good second hand engines are available at very reasonable prices, our needs will be catered for for some time to come.

I've just worked out that I have thirty-three engines ranging from a Mills 75 to a Laser 160V. Having turned seventy-six on 11th March I think I have enough to be getting on with. For the time being at least.

March 31

Model Shop Leeds is taking over the distribution of the spare parts.

March 30

1 hour ago, Frank Skilbeck said:

Gravity, once the engine is running the carb will venturi effect will draw fuel in and the exhaust pressure will also push the fuel through as well.

That's what I was thinking! Most of my engines are like this.

March 29

Welcome from me too Chris. You've made the right decision to join a club.

March 28

Every year I compete in a daft competition for a three-channel French trainer. It is known as La Coupe Des Barons or the Barons' Cup in English. You are allowed to make alterations to the structure and dimensions of the original model providing that they remain within 10% of the original design. I have two Barons, Boris in Ukrainian markings and Bertie with the British roundels. If I were to crash one shortly before the event then I'd have a reserve aircraft. This actually happened last year! This year I built a new wing for Bertie, using depron for the wing ribs. The completed model is fully 4 ozs (113 grammes) lighter than my Ukrainian Baron which is stock and built from a kit.

For the 2025 competition I am thinking of building a new lighter fuselage and tailplane for Bertie using depron for the tailsurfaces in order to save yet more weight. The stock tailplane is made up of 1/4" (6mm) balsa. The model will be powered by a 52 fourstroke because I always compete in the fourstroke class and have given a prize to the leading pilot flying a four-stroke Baron for the last few years. I guess that I am quite famous being the only British entrant and a fourstroke devoté to boot!

My question is, "How do you make a tailplane, fin and rudder out of depron sufficiently robust to withstand the flight stresses ofr a Baron in competition when powered by a 52 four-stroke?"

Pictures below of the construction of a stock tailplane and the depron wing, and of Bertie and Boris ready for La Coupe.

My dog is such a diva that she just had to get into the act!

March 27

Both Bertie and Boris Baron are ready for La Coupe. There are a few cosmetic jobs to do but they are in serviceable condition I'm just waiting for the wind and rain to stop before flying them.

Technical details:

Bertie has a wingspan about 2.5 inches or 6cms bigger than standard, (my fault I changed the internal structure of the wing!) the airframe weight is 2.1kgs and the model is powered by a Magnum 52.

Boris has the standard wing, weighs 2.2kgs and is powered by a Thunder Tiger 54. I'm told that my models are rather heavy. The weight of the four-stroke doesn't help of course but I used basswood for the fuselage longerons and though they have added weight, both models have crashed without the fuselage being damaged.

My dog is such a diva that she has to photo-bomb at every opportunity!

March 23

I must admit that although Bert thinks that the first question is clear enough I have no idea what José is writing about. If the original text were displayed maybe a fluent Spanish speaker could give us a better translation.

March 23

"Edited 28 minutes ago by Martin Harris - Moderator
Originally posted in Spanish. I have Auto translated it but the first question is unclear to me. PLEASE NOTE THIS IS AN ENGLISH LANGUAGE ONLY FORUM - please post any updates in English."

Perhaps we have some Spanish speakers on this forum Martin who could do a better job of translating the original post.

March 23

On 21/03/2024 at 19:34, kc said:

Those Sarik sets of parts are not the same as kits - they vary but may be just be plans with laser cut ribs and some other parts. I don't think they ever have the wire parts bent to shape and supplied as one would expect to get in a kit or supplies of fixtures and fittings. They don't necessarily have the wood selected for exact use ( i.e. lightweight balsa for tailplane etc ) - except for the lasercut parts you will be on your own in selecting wood.

A proper kit will have all the parts needed except engine, radio and covering - you would expect to find wood selected for correct density& grain to suit each part, building instructions, tank, engine mount, undercarriage wire parts bent to shape, wheels, collets, horns, hinges, possibly decals included. For the inexperienced builder a good kit ( for example the SLEC Fun Fly which has all those items) will be better. Sets of cut parts are more for the person who has a stock of balsa and fittings to hand together with the knowledge of the type of balsa to select for each particular use.

While you are absolutely right in your post kc, the OP is looking for a scale/semi-scale kit of a light aircraft suitable for his Saito 49. I regret that there are none of which I am aware but there are kit cutters who will supply most of the difficult parts for just about any model you care to mention, (I hate cutting out wing ribs myself!) leaving the builder to chose his own wood as you suggest, and to bend his own undercarriage.

The OP's initial plan was to build a SLEC Sky 40 for his OS 40 FP, but I believe that he has now bought one ready made. He also planned to build a glider or electric powered glider and then to tackle a Ben Buckle Super 60 which will be powered by a PAW diesel engine. By the time he's done all of that, and with the help he may receive from his clubmates, he should be able to build a model from a short-kit.

Just my opinion of course.

March 21

If I were in your situation I would chose the RWD5 or the Luton Minor. Both of the designers are very well known. Nothing wrong with the Clipped Wing Cub except that they are so commonplace! 😏. Some of the models shown are designed for electric motors so you'd need to beef up the nose structure if you wanted to convert to i/c.

March 21

How about this one? I've seen one fly and it flew beautifully.

https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/cessna-120-62/

March 21

28 minutes ago, Hoochykins said:

As much as I like the above I think I have fallen in love with the KK Southerner Major:

That is a stunning looking model. I'm hoping it's not an advanced model to build...

Not wishing to rain on your parade but it is quite a complex model with its eliptical wings and crutch-built stringered fuselage, besides it's a three channel vintage model and you'll already have one of those once you've built your Super 60 so it won't help you to advance your flying skills.

The Barnstormer may be built as a four channel model with ailerons. I would suggest that you build a high or mid-wing model four channel model before the Cherokee. These fly well and would suit your engine: https://www.slecuk.com/funfly-kit

March 21

11 minutes ago, Shaun Walsh said:

72? is that age or speed

Riding a sports bike at 72 kph Paul! No wonder you're too tired to drive to La Coupe Des Barons!

March 20

Those were the days.

March 20

PS. I sold my last bike last year. At seventy-six my knees are no longer up to managing a big bike especially with luggage and a pillion on the back. Mind you, one of those little SV 650s look interesting..

March 20

This biplane may be a bit more suitable for your engine if it's not too basic looking for you. It's not currently in stock but a call to the owner will let you know when it's going to be avaiable. https://www.dbsportandscale.com/tinker-kit-7871-p.asp

March 20

Welcome to the forum Craig. I'm glad you're going to join a club because you'll probably meet many like minded souls who'll help you in your aeromodelling career. I'm pleased that you've chosen to build a model stick by stick because that's what I enjoy doing. However, if you'll take a bit of unsolicitated advice from me, please learn to fly before you try to fly the Nieuport. Flying an r/c model is not as easy as it looks and I'd hate you to crash the model after you will have put so much time and effort into the build. Even the real Nieuport pilots didn't learn to fly on Nieuports did they? Leave it till your third or fourth model.

The Sale club may well have a trainer which you can learn on while your transmitter is connected to an instructor's transmitter. It saves a lot of heart ache!

March 20

I feel that both the biplanes are a bit small for a 49 four-stroke. Furthermore both models are designed for electric motors, consequently you will have to beef up the construction in the nose to allow for the greater vibration of an i/c engine and starter motor torque

The Aeronaut Sky Maxx is a more appropriate size for your engine and it appears that there are instructions for building the model using an i/c engineso if it floats your boat go for it!

March 20

Hooch, the OS 40FP has a cast iron piston in a cast iron bore, quite traditional technology though the cylinder is nikasil plated. While you will not wear this engine out very quickly, they apparently require quite a bit of running in but as you have bought this engine second hand, this has probably already been done. You may find the following interesting: https://sceptreflight.com/Model Engine Tests/OS Max 40FP.html

March 19

Yesterday I hinged the rudder and elevator to the model. I used large Kavan pinned hinges and for the first time I used De Luxe Materials Superphatic glue as the adhesive. I had been impressed by the quality of this glue when building a wing for my Baron which featured depron wing ribs, also a first for me. Previously I had always used epoxy as the glue for hinges and I'd always applied some form of grease to the pivot before applying the glue. I usually used butter for this purpose! As Superphatic is a water based glue I did not bother with greasing the pivot. I placed five spots of Superphatic on each side of one leaf of each hinge. These were then inserted into the tailplane. Five more spots on each side of the other leaf then I fitted the elevator. I did the same with the rudder. By yesterday evening I was able to lift the model and wag it about holding on to the rudder and elevator! Thats without any pins or cocktail sticks. Note the usual immaculately tidy workshop!

Having turned 76 earlier in the month I have decided to treat myself and the model to a white GRP undercarriage from Carbon Copy.

March 18

11 hours ago, Mike downs 1 said:

I have always built my models and fly using Futaba radios

I have come across a nice A10 Warthog which is tempting me .I believe it comes with a Spektrum receiver.

What would I need to do in order to fly with my trusty Futaba 10 CG

Would just changing the receiver do the trick?

Cheers

Yes.

March 17

38 minutes ago, enquisiter said:

Muscle mem pretty good as been on sim for a while now. Reaction times good too I'm a biker of 40 odd years 😆

Like Ernie I live too far away to be able to offer advice as to where to find a suitable "open flying area." However, I've lived most of my life in Shropshire and I used to fly from a farmer's field but preferred the companionship of a club. I only got permission to fly at that field because my best friend had a Private Pilot's Licence and he knew a farmer who also had a PPL and who had built a model aircraft as well.

I wish you the best of luck in finding an "open flying area" but I can't understand your reluctance to join a club. In my experience any restrictions which a club imposes, not flying over certain areas for example, are there for the safety of club members and the general public.

Perhaps you'll let us know how you get on.

PS. I've held a motor cycle licece for sixty years.

March 17

I flew my Baron yesterday. I still need to make a few adjustments to the throttle pushrod but otherwise it flew fine.

I also took up my mate Frans on the buddy box on his electric powered Radio Queen. He's still putting in signals which are too coarse even after two years of instruction. Perhaps he needs a different instructor.

I plan to fly my Super Frontier Senior, a SIG Kadet Senior ARTF clone this afternoon.

I always thought that Spring started on 21st March.

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