Michael Baylis

Hi, I'm on holiday next week right by the Great Orme. Does anyone have any advice about sites, restrictions etc? My dad and I are only taking our wildthings. Cheers, Michael

The electric wingman ones are slightly cheaper and larger capacity than the puffin ones Thanks Brian

Thanks John.

Hi, has anyone found a uk supplier for life receiver battery packs? I'm struggling to find one via google, getting results for manufactors like logic rc but can't find anyone how sells them. I could wait until Wednesday and ask them, but I am impatient Looking for 2s around 2000 mah pref with Futaba connectors. cheers michael

Managed to find a bit of time to make some progress. One of the bits of advice I have read on the phase 6 blogs is to put the closed rudder loop in place before you glue the sides together. However, there is no information on how to route the cables through the fuselage. With them apart is not obvious on where to glue the guides, or where to drill the exit holes. Does anyone have some advice please?  Cheers, Michael

Step 3 complete. Work finally allowed me time to finish the longerons:-

Decided to go with Gary's tacking, working very well. 1) Spread the epoxy on the longeron. 2) Position part of the longeron 3) Tack with cyano and kicker at the narrow part of the longeron where it touched the fuselage.4) Hold for a minute for the cyano to set. 5) Move up the longeron and repeat.  Thanks Gary. I wanted the epoxy strength with the instant grab of cyano. This method fits the bill perfectly.

I've got a load of pins from Slec, but they are not upto hammering without bending.  Gary, I have seen your build blog, which is one of the reason why I decided to get a Phase 6. Unfortunately it didn't mention the difficulty with the longerons. Though, reading the instructions, this appears to be the only difficult bit.  How did you "tack" with cyano?  I have cut slots into the longerons as per instructions.  The pin by hand method works for about a 3rd of the length, so the other option I have is to glue a third of the longeron at a time. I have 20 min epoxy, so should be done with the hardwood longeron by tonight. 

Not confident on getting it in the right place first time. Need time to position it correctly because of the s-curve.

Ok, first newbie question:- For the 1/4" hardwood longerons that curve with the fuselage bottom, how on earth do I pin it to the ply fuselage? Without hammering I can't seem to penetrate the ply. The instructions suggest a impact adhesive, but I'm not experienced enough for that yet.  Can't believe I'm stuck on step 3! (step 2 has been deleted from the instructions)  Cheers,  Michael

Hi Folks, Finally got all the bits and bobs together to make a start on my Phase 6. I've checked I have everything in the box, sanded the ply and begun glueing the fuselage sides together. Which for one of them I had to do again, despite having a flat weight on it, it still managed to misalign! Not a good start. 

Thank you guys for the advice, almost got the build tools together, will start very soon

Hi Andy, I meant 2 servos per wing side, ie 2 for port wing and 2 for the starboard. I've just got a 8FGSuper so I want to play with all the mixing opportunities that have become available ie, flaperon, crow braking etc.  A number of people have recommended glassing the front and from what I have seen from the landings at Garway it is probably a sensible idea. Looking forward to this build and as there is not a build blog on this forum for a phase 6 I thought I would add one. I'm comfortable with what I have to do, it's just the covering I am concerned with.  I was looking at the HS-81 as a possible candidate, you don't believe metal gears are required then?  Cheers, Michael

Hi Folks, I've just received my Phase 6 kit and will start a build blog once I have bought all the tools required. But before that I have a couple of questions:- a) Any recommendations for servos for the ailerons and flaps (yes, I will be doing a 4xServo wing)? Are metal gears required? Which of the hi-tech range would be suitable?  b) I know I will have to glass the front half of the fuselage, but I have no idea on what I will need to do or what is required, is there a guide somewhere?  Cheers, Michael

Looking a lot better, thank you guys. Now to wait for a calm day to try it again

Ok, the rad is glued back together, it went very well using CA. However, when I put the canopy cover back on I notice that the nose foam has compress by about 5mm. Is there anything I can do to expand the nose back to it's normal length so that the canopy fits properly again? Cheers,  Michael

Cyano and kicker it is then. Will have to wait until I am back home to try it. This forum is brilliant for us new guys, and it is much appreciated when I get the help I need so very quickly, thank you.

I've never used this method of spraying the kicker before. Would you recommend a product please. so I plug it all together and then apply the cyano into the tiny gaps. give it time to wick in. then apply the kicker, which I assume will also wick in. BUT very very quickly, clean up the excess on the outside.

Thank guys, small problem though, I may have misrepresented a "clean break". I meant that there is no missing chunks of foam. The break it self is a bit of a zigzag and will require slot in and a bit of manoeuvring to get in position, therefore contact glue will probably not be the best choice as I may require a couple of attempts to get it right.

Hi Folks, Had a little accident with my new Radian Pro and I am seeking advice on how to go about repairing it:- The manual suggests that "Thanks to teh Z-foam construction of the Radian Pro, repairs can be made using virtually any adhesive (hot glue, regular CA epoxy etc)."Well, thanks for the choice, but I don't which would be better. The break is fairly clean, there was not any bits of foam lying around.  Any advice on which adhesive to use, method to use to put it back together and if I need to strengthen would be greatly appreciated. Cheers,  Michael  

Ah, but we aren't allowed to drive to the top of Garway Hill. Not sure I would trust the range of my 6EX from within a closed car.

Perfect, now all we need is heated socks and winter will not stop us climbing to the top of that hill.

Could we find something like these :- Motorcycle heated gloves I'm sure we have enough LiPos to provide the power.

Just phoned Horizon and they said they have received a shipment of Radian Pros which should be sent on to the retailers next week.

Blimey, the Radian Pro seems to be out of stock everywhere. Does anyone know of a supplier that has one?