Viking42

I have converted my Turnigy Tx with a Spectrum module, just because of the fact of versatility and cost (8 channels)to a cost of 70£ approx) as I mainly fly own scratch-built and lower end less complex models. However, the most frequently used Tx are my Spectrum 6i or 5e, both very robust, together with rx:es from Spectrum and OrangeX, with or without stabilisation. So far no faults have occurred, which could not be related to mistakes of my own. I still regard Futaba as a higher brand ( and I have a 6ch Tx), but nowadays only plan for Futaba in a model of a higher brand, like a thermal glider/soarer, or where I think maximum range is absolutely needed.

Hi Peter M., New gear with larger wheel (2.5"on top picture. Old wheel plus gear surged out with quite an effort on lower pictures. Your wheel attachment design is quite sturdy... Now wee are waiting for the right occation and nice weather gods. Viking Edited By Viking on 25/06/2012 18:38:39

Peter M., Thanks - I'll do so Viking

Peter M., Sopry for my late answer, but I´m currently sitting in the middle of nowhere/somewhere right now and thus have a small communication problem. To squeeze in a larger wheel doesn´t work, so I have loosened the current gear from the fuselage, and will bend a new one, taki ng a 2,5 - 3 inch wheel. In your opinion, will that do?. Pegards Viking

Hi Peter M, hi all! Finally all parameters did match and I was to take my RF-4D into the air. Unfortunately though,she couldn´t take off from our grass field, although well prepaired. Conclusion: wheel to small diameter. Question: Peter, what diameter do you recommend? I have to change/make a new landing gear leg, the commercial one I used, does take max 2 inches diameter wheels only. Look forward also to see the solution of a retractable gear! Regards Viking

Well done, Koen! Beutiful landing! How did she feel concerning CG? Very sensitive or not on elevator? Regards Viking P.S. I have not been airborne yet - hopefully after Eastern

Nice and proper outfit! It´s always good to have safe power at hand ! Good luck! Viking

Koen, My model like yours is also covered to 90% with oracover. Excluded are cockpit and cowling, both painted. I found out, that some car paintings and alikes in spray bottles, did stick on to Oracover, why I bougt one in the closest possible colour to the original, then painted some part of the remaining oracover sheet. I made some masters out of stiffer brown paper, and did cut out after them. Thus the front blue, forward of the canopy, is of Oracover, made after masters. The letters have a different procedure. 1) Write what you want in Powerpoint - save as JPEG. 2) Open in photoshop and mirror the letters. Resize letters to wanted size - save and print. 3) Use Glue stick or paperglue to stick the letters on to the backside of the painted oracover - then cut out. 4) Fasten the Oracóver letters with non-shrinking varnish. 5) When all our with varnish fastened "decals" are dry, give a cote of varnish over them for protection. Of course you can do the same with figures or whatever, dependant upon your skill.. The wings finally, where sprayed - of course you have to protect the rest of the model with drawingboard tape + magazine paper etc. When dry, give a coat of warnish. I found that Oracover is a very good and forgiving covering material, but the painting procedures, i.e. finalization of the model, are difficult, and will ruin many good builds. Yet having decals made by proffesionals is atleast here, an expensive story. That´s why my models look and will look the best in the air. VIKING

Koen, Indeed a very beautiful RF 4!. I put double batteries (2 x Li-ion 2200 mAh) up front just to try to avoid balancing, but will need some lead upfront no doubt. Trial launches will tell how much. How did you cover your machine? All balsa = i.e. also the wings? What sor of paint did you use? VIKING

Bill B and Peter M, Thank you both for your positive feedback! Unfortunately photos do lie at times (I will never be a skilled "decal-designer", and I thus had to leave some lines etc out (as for the Swedish-registered original). What will matter is the flying qualities, which I hope will be as good as Peter´s pictures have shown that they can be. As we still have winter here with snow, flying will have to wait, at least until spring sunshine will prevent finger stiffness and wet lawns! Regards VIKING

Hi Fomidable, Thank you for directing me to the fabulous SE 5 thread! As I already have mentioned, I´ve made new wings to my 30" depron model. If I can get hold of EPP somewhere here in my neighbourhood, I will also change to that material, although I don´t now much about it, sanding and painting qualities etc. However, the good side of any SE 5 is, that she is fairly simple to balance and build and that she looks better in the air than on the ground - at least my does!. She's now hanging in the basement, awaiting springtime weather.... My first SE 5 was smaller, 50cm - , and a partly modified build from an Internet (free) drawing. It flew 2 times even when the design as such was much too weak, why i decided to enlarge her into the 30" size in order to add additional strength to the design. I fully agree with you that Depron, even with some balsa enforcement still is too weak - can for instance not take any pressure - though it is fairly light. With the experience gained, maybe I will rebuild the 50 cm variant for indoors flying, we'll see. Below the 30" variant with her (this time straight) wings. VIKING