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JayCee

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Everything posted by JayCee

  1. JayCee
    Thanks Greybeard for taking the trouble to explain the concept. If I understand it correctly it makes life easier because I can make up the landing gear as per the instructions for a ridged fixing and add the 'floating' axial afterwards. JC
  2. JayCee
    Yes sorry should have done that. Bouncing Rabbit based in the UK is here http://www.bouncingrabbit.co.uk/ JC
  3. JayCee
    Have just found 2mm bungee cord thinnest I can find, as its only £2.45 for 5 meters with free delivery I have ordered it anyway. Still unable to get my head around how it's fitted! JC
  4. JayCee
    Hi thanks for your prompt response, don't suppose you have any pictures? Or a link to any pictures? As I said I'm a novice builder and a picture is worth a thousand words! <grin> JC
  5. JayCee
    HI I'm building a Flair SE5A the build blog is here http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=74098&p=1 This aircraft is 1/6 scale and the design landing gear is fixed I would like to try and design a more forgiving undercarriage but at only 1/6 scale is to small for a bungee set up. This is my first traditional build so basically a novice in this department so any help and advice would be appreciated. JC
  6. JayCee
    Hi there! Update to my progress in building the Flair SE5A with electric conversion. I must admit I found this part of the build tricky to say the least. Not having done it before I decided to make a thin card template, I'm glad I did and as i was able to cut a hole for the front carbane but it didn't seem possible on the rear so a small piece of ply was inserted later. The front cowl I found easier to make inverted on my building board, and decided to fit magnets for easy and quick access to the battery. This is where you can have a laugh at my expense, as you know I'm a novice this is my first traditional build. I duly marked out and fitted the magnets being very careful to clean and rough up the surface for epoxy fixing, left them overnight went to drop the cowl in position waiting for the reassuring 'clunk' only to find the cowl flying upwards! Yep I forgot magnets have 'poles' Well according to the instructions next on the list is the undercarriage, again this may take a while as I don't want a fixed ridged affair, need a bit of bounce for my landings. JC
  7. JayCee

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  8. JayCee

    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  10. JayCee

    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  11. JayCee

    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  12. JayCee
    Thanks Trevor Will look forward to seeing what you have done! Hopefully will be posting some more pictures on my build blog later tonight, slow but gradual progress. JC
  13. JayCee
    Hi Danny One side is still open, but you said 'Bolts' mine were No 6 self tapping screws into the hard wood formers! The second side of cladding is not going to be so easy as I won't be able to clamp to the top spar can you remember how you did yours? JC
  14. JayCee
    __Hi For anybody following this build have another couple of pictures. Had a couple of hours before football and made up and installed the battery tray, needed to do this prior to ply cladding as I wanted to extend it past F2 which after cladding will no longer be accessible. However all the fixings will be between F1 and F2 so will always be accessible. Then started the tricky bit, was able to glue the bottom edge of the ply cladding before going out, when I got home it was dry enough to bend over to the top spar had to use just about every clamp I had! Out all day tomorrow so no more building untill Monday. JC
  15. JayCee

    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. JayCee

    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  17. JayCee

    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  18. JayCee
    With a 0.8mm ply cowling, JC, it should be sturdy enough to stand on......... I guess your right all my mates say I go over the top! never yet got a plane to come in at the correct weight. Never got my head around 'Weight is God'! always seem to end up with a bigger battery and large prop <grin> but they certainly move!! JC
  19. JayCee
    Thanks Trevor If you have any pictures............you know what they say a picture is worth a thousand words <grin> JC
  20. JayCee
    OK open house! The undercarriage on this plane is fixed ridged I would like to get a bit of 'Give' like a bungie effect I was thinking of fixing a second axial to the first and attaching it twice in the centre of the original thus being independent, bit difficult to explain will give it a try and post some pictures. Away this weekend, football Saturday, golf Sunday so apart from the odd hour here and there wont be doing much until next week. Was meant to be a winter project it's only October <grin> JC
  21. JayCee
    Thanks Danny I can make the battery tray virtually as long as I like because it can go through F2 were the fuel tank would be. Difficult to know so early in the build to have any idea of CG but have been told the WW1 war birds in general need loads of weight up front but I'll make sure I cover all the options JC
  22. JayCee
    Hi Pete Thanks for your comments, my first try at a conventional build, enjoying it but a steep learning curve! The cowl is 0.8 light ply, might be easier to make a judgement when I've completed it. The next bit looks a bit tricky from F2 back one piece of ply that has to be shaped and cut around the angled carbanes JC
  23. JayCee
    Hi All Well a few more pictures of my SE5A build and electric conversion and thanks to Danny for his idea relating to the motor mount. As I said previously I have had to vary the build sequence, I needed to make sure that I could install a suitable fire wall for my chosen motor, and more importantly where was I going to site the rather large Lipo! I had rather hoped that I could fit the Lipo below the motor and have the floor pan removable but there is not enough room. However, above the motor will work out just fine, the battery tray (yet to be installed) can stretch from the front cowl through to the fuel tank compartment if necessary giving me loads of adjustment for CG. The only downside is having to remove the complete cowl every time I change the battery. Four fixing screws dosen't appeal much, the cowl is to fragile for magnets the amount of force needed would in time damage the cowl....any ideas? JC_
  24. JayCee

    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  25. JayCee

    JayCee posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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