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BizJet Tech

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  1. Wow! My Build Buddy and I were at Headcorn and were seriously impressed with the aircraft!! the weather was a gusty strong crosswind but it flew beautifully, the flypast followed by steep climb to a wingover was just like the real one except for the lack of noise.!! oh well , You can't have everything. it looked just right , flying at scale speeds. it appeared to me that it was flying aerodynamically not on megagobs of of excess thrust, which makes it better. some of the other models there were virtually supersonic, Anyway, top marks for a beautiful model, Tony i'm looking forward to seeing your 48" special. Alan     Edited By BizJet Tech on 15/09/2014 09:27:56
  2. BEAUTY!!!! but, Vulcan didn't have Reheat (Afterburning to the Yanks) though it IS impressive lovely job.
  3. Hi Tony, Love your work. FWIW I scaled Graham’s plans down to 48nch span and used 6mm Depron for the wing and fuselage ribs and 1 mm ply for the root ribs/nacelle ribs. Skin is 3mm depron with ½ oz fibreglass and poly kote. With the fans and ducts installed there’s a huge empty area in the wing root so as I was worried about strength, I made fibreglass fairings for the jet pipes It has 4 AEO 30mm fans for 2s LiPos. It also has e-flite retracts! I have it about ¾ finished and the weight is looking like it will be about 1600 – 1800 grm. For example the nose and canopy is 60 grm ready for paint. if the weight stays as projected wing loading would be about 13oz/sq ft and there’s decent push from the donks (can't remember how much) so the thing should “fly” aerodynamically rather than by brute force. that's my sixpence-worth, stick to the fans and try some depron Good luck, Alan   Edited By BizJet Tech on 27/06/2012 23:32:47
  4. That is a complete bummer! Have you got any hand launch experts? With that big wing the loading should be low. Holding the thing will be more of a problem. You've beaten worse setbacks. Good luck, Alan
  5. What I did to get the engine fairings was simple. I cut two slots in a 15mm plank (a B&Q shelf actually) I then inset 2 40mm plastic drain pipes using lots of epoxy. The front sections were just polyfilla. I measured the gap between the ribs and drew lines on the wood using a ballpoint pen. I really scored it deep. When dry, I shaped the filler and then applied copious quantities of wax polish and using the pen marks as a guide I fibreglassed the area with the lightest fabric I could find. When set I popped it off. A side result of the heavy penlines was the ink got picked up by the resin and so I had great cutting marks. Fluke! Remember mine is a reduced version of Graham’s. Only 45” span with 40mm fans, so the pipes will need to be bigger. It’s a bit gash but the principle works. The pic shows the first effort and shows the mistake. The pipe needs to be angled into the wood to allow for the wing shape. If you look at a Vulcan underside you’ll see what I mean. So I did them again. The outer surface is really quite smooth but as xxx said a male mould would be better.
  6. I have the same fears, so what I have done on my 45” reduced version of GDs plan is to use the intake bulkhead as a motor mount and have added 2 sheets of 1mm ply top and bottom about 25 mm aft of the edfs and finishing where the jetpipes come through the skin. That has about 1/3 of the gap filled. I made up some fibreglass fairings for the upper and lower skins and they will help a little. I also put 4 carbon rods around the intake. I was thinking of embedding the jetpipes in shredded glassfibre towards the rear of the wing, a kind of bulkhead I suppose. By the way, the jetpipes are 160grm postcard paper wrapped around 41mm water pipe and sealed with a foam friendly resin called Eze-Kote. I put the retracts in the scale position in the removeable wing panels, which in my case will be permanent – it’s only 45” after all and I have a van. I sliced into the ribs horizontally and had to cut one out of each side out to allow for twin wheels. I also sliced into the outer fuselage ply ribs and the wing panel ply rib. I’ll use them even though the wings will be glued in place as they might spread the load. That should secure the wings ok. On problem based on the size of the aircraft is the lack of space for all the wires!! I’ll have to feed them around the motors and possibly embed them in the skin. Alan
  7. Actually, I'm going to sheet over top & bottom with 3mm Depron and rely on the intake being big enough. I'll probably leave the lightening holes.
  8. I went through something similar regarding the intake. Mine is 100mm wide with inbd 35mm and obd 20mm = 2750sq mm. The EDFs are AEO Tech 40mm with 23mm motors giving an FSA of 1700 sqmm for the pair. Now I've got to tune the jetpipes! Alan
  9. Hi. I bought just about all the plans available for the Vulcan and settled on Graham’s. But as I’ve just returned to modelling after over 20 years, I’m fascinated by the explosion in electric power. I remember having an Electric Islander which did a great job of converting volts to noise (just like the real one) it certainly didn’t fly!! I decided to scale down Gordon’s model to 45” approx and build it mainly from Depron. I kept the fuselage sides and the wing root ply. But I only used 1/32” (1mm) ply. The fuselage and wing ribs are 6mm laser cut depron. The stringers are all 1/8 square balsa. Skin is 3mm depron. The nose went together beautifully. I was concerned about the joining so I made it so the skin fitted between the fuselage sides by flattening the sides of F5 and an extra frame which butts onto F6. Looks scale too with the splitter plates like the real thing. Like Andy, I’m concerned by the lack of any structure between the fuselage and wing. I’ve put in 2 sub ribs which are a 1/32 & 1/8 balsa sandwich to support the motors. I’ll use a couple of spots of silicone to secure them. I tried to make ducts from 3mm depron but kept cracking it, so I’m trying to see if 160 grm postcard paper wrapped around 41mm waste pipe and soaked with Eze-Kote to stiffen them. Funnily, the card is heavier than depron. I’ll put a support and another ply sub rib in the rear area. I’ll then paint it all with fibreglass resin which hopefully will strengthen the structure. I’ll try to make a mould of the underwing jetpipe fairings and press out 3mm depron for the undersurface to protect the ducts. I’ll cover the lower surface with light glass fibre/resin for ding protection.
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