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RGPuk

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  1. RGPuk
    Posted by Jonathan Lewzey on 05/07/2013 16:09:22: Cheers guys, I was thinking of something like the link, the pictures are useful with the text though so thanks for the link. Not sure when I'll get round to it, if I have any problems I'll report back The technique in the link I've used twice now and it works a treat. Lots of outer layers of lightweight CF is definitely best, in conjunction with slow-ish (2 hour pot-time) cure and runny epoxy. Plenty of time to work and blots well with peel ply and kitchen towel wrap for a nice dry finish, with a good key if more layers are needed. Ro.
  2. RGPuk
    Posted by Jonathan Lewzey on 03/07/2013 21:26:04: Could anyone recommend a way to mend a typhoon fuselage? vertical fracture most of the way round one side of the fuselage just behind the wing. There's very little access internally here, but I really don't want to leave the exterior looking terrible. Any suggestions? Have a look about halfway down this page: **LINK** Ro.
  3. RGPuk

    RGPuk posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  4. RGPuk
    Posted by Jon Laughton on 18/04/2013 17:58:43: RGPuk just sent you a pm Jon Replied. Ro.
  5. RGPuk
    I've had 2 Alps 1700e's. With the right kit in it it flies very well - but gentle it is not. The RG14 makes her very slippery and fast, needing loooong landing approaches when there's not much breeze. Drop the speed to a difficult to predict point, and the tip stall is always a viscious surprise. My kit-out was 82MG's all round, a 1200 kv 274W brushless outrunner, 10x5 Aero-Naut folder, 40A ESC, 3S 2200 40C and she went like stink. Also, their are 2 weaknesses in the construction that really need to be dealt with before ever it takes to the air. The first is the frail fuz around the vent holes near the wing seat. Those vents are uneccessary as there is a quite adequate exit at the tail. Best thing is to glass them over, with plenty of overlap to the surrounding area. Even a slightly misjudged arrival will break the unstrengthened fuz there. The second weak spot is at the trailing edge around the wing-bolt points. The load needs spreading as the TE is merely balsa. My flying buddy mentioned a faint cracking sound whilst I pulled just a moderate turn overhead - the wings detached not long after resulting in a write off. Ply and carbon strip have been used to sort things out on the second assembly. I'd show you a pic, but there's nothing to see as the area has been re-covered. My Alps number two with those modifications has proven fun and remains intact - and the landings are now a little less hot and stressful (but not by much) by using spoilerons. Ro. PS. Number two needed 20gms .. !! .. at one wing tip to balance the machine laterally ... and .... do not force the stab into it's slot. Relieve any undue pressure before epoxying thoroughly in place or the fin will crack at the crux of the slot.
  6. RGPuk
    I'm sure Peter will come back on this but ....... ..... the Typhoon control surfaces are all top driven, the longer tanged horns are for the flaps, the shorter for the ailerons - and you'll have to slot the surface innards just enough so the horns slide into place, leaving the right amount of horn protruding, that clears the fairings with a clevice/connection fitted and with the drive hole as near as possible in line with the hinge line. The horns in the pics at the following link are metal but still give a good idea of the fitting principle: **LINK** Ah - the vagaries of mouldie assembly. All very satisfying when it comes together though. Ro. Edited By RGPuk on 02/01/2013 18:08:03
  7. RGPuk
    Posted by Peewhit on 29/12/2012 16:01:18: .......... I am not familiar with a "flat 4" battery configuration. ......... Sounds like a 4 x 2/3AF cell flat four pack Peter. I run one in Flying Fish - and a more pointy 3+1 or 2+2 configuration in very narrow nosed machines like Tucan. The only downside I've found is that the available cells are far tenacious in extreme cold than Eneloops. Ro.
  8. RGPuk
      Just for info, those original suits unfortunately became very rare, very quickly after that listing. I did manage to get one and based on the fact that I've comfortably worn single, thin layers underneath all day in sub zero's at Horcum, I would recommend looking for a similar fishing suit. It's a huge and aggressive market, so prices are damn keen - especially for outgoing, last year's items. Ro.   Edited By RGPuk on 06/11/2012 20:40:01
  9. RGPuk
    Thanks to Rich at T9 HobbySport, I now have hands on a Mystique. Very nice it is too. Beautifully finished and certainly worth every penny for those it suits. Ro.
  10. RGPuk
    Posted by Chris P on 20/10/2012 19:34:04: Just got mine flying this week and really love it, I didn't cover it as wanted to keep the weight as low as possible, I did ballast it with 3x£1 coins this week as wind was 14mph. Edited By Chris P on 20/10/2012 19:38:47 I'm sure you'll enjoy her immensely. For what it's worth (and I'm sure that someone will pipe-up and disagree), the covering on my second Weasel (previously in the thread - orange wing panels) has helped it fly more efficiently than the uncovered first, as well as keeping it clean of wet sheep poo. She flew yesteday in very, very light conditions, as lift sniffer before chucking the 2.8M Sting off the slope. This session however, with the slope almost to myself, I spent a good time fidgeting the c of g backwards from where I'd previously believed it to be just fine. How wrong I'd been. Snipping lead out of the nose gradually, and incrementally reducing the elevator throws accordingly, produced an entirely different machine. Faster, tracks better, turns better - and simply an all-round nicer thing to fly. We are told that c of g is critical in the manual - but I do wonder just how many people find their actual sweet spot by not making the fine adjustments and merely sticking to the starter position given by the manual. Sure, my Weasel must be heavier than those that are put together with anal attention to the digital scales - but now I'm sure that better set-up is far more important than shaving the odd feather's worth off here and there. Ballast in a blow? If you've left Weasel as a transportable job, just fill the wing spar with steel rod. Far more weight than recommended by the book maybe, but works a treat, even in medium conditions. A great little creation for not a lot of money - and I like her even more now. ..... Ro. Edited By RGPuk on 21/10/2012 15:24:07
  11. RGPuk
    I'm really sorry to hear of the servo issue Mike - especially when the process seemed to have gone so smoothly and avoided the attentions of customs. One can't help but wonder if the faulty units in your Typhoon weren't subjected to a prolonged stall when they were powered up and adjusted for fitting - or if indeed they managed to escape QC during a shortcut from production to assembly of your package. To be fair the six 0255's in my Luna are still going strong after 2+ years of hard work, with only minimal slop in the geartrain having developed. To keep things symmetrical and simple, maybe it'd be best just to get a couple of replacement Savox's from T9, and pursue APH for some recompense. **LINK** Ro.   Edited By RGPuk on 13/10/2012 11:14:26
  12. RGPuk
    Posted by Dale Bennison on 14/09/2012 20:05:09: .......... snip! .......... do I need to learn to fly first before getting into gliders? or can you get gliders suitable for beginners? I have been using Pheonix, and also have a DX6i (which I use with my heli) I live in South Cheshire so days out to the Orme and Long Mynd are not out of the question, don't know if there is anywhere closer? thanks in advance Dale It's perfectly possible to learn to slope soar with no guidance, little expense, or destroying kit. Use the slope facility on your sim to get your thumbs learning, search out and read the basic theories and practicalities of flying slope lift, get a Wildthing from Alan Head at SAS. Soar Ahead Sailplanes Build it exactly to the instructions (your DX6i is just fine to use), head to a hill in the right weather conditions and go for it. Worked for me 4 years ago, although I just used the freebee CRRCsim on the Zipper model programme and a 14 quid USB mock TX. I got a Wildthing 60 rather than a 46, to cope with a wider variety of windspeeds. My next machine was then a Luna II moulded 2 metre, that's still serving me well today, alongside F3f machines, EPP racers, EP soarers and plenty of other stuff my wife doesn't know I've bought. Ro.   Edited By RGPuk on 16/09/2012 00:52:57
  13. RGPuk
    Posted by Jonnor on 11/09/2012 13:53:33: Can anyone help please? I need to know precise positions and spacings of the mounting screws for the Turnigy 2836 Aerodrive 1050kv motor. .......... snip! ............ Check the reviews for the product on the HK website. There is one person who gives the dimensions. They do seem to be the usual bolt holes - 2 at 16mm centres and 2 at 19mm centres, with the x-mount having 4 holes all at 33mm centres. Ro.
  14. RGPuk
    Posted by Mike Pinington on 05/09/2012 22:27:33: Is This the Bargain of the century?????? Fingers crossed customs don't nab the box for VAT and duty. Let us know how you get on and about the quality of the build package. Ro.
  15. RGPuk
    Ripon is not far west of Pickering - north of which is The Hole of Horcum and Levisham slopes, the home of the NYMRSC: NYMRSC The annual membership fee is worth paying for just a couple of visits alone - but a monthly membership is available too. Most wind directions are catered for. Ro.
  16. RGPuk
    Just for reference, I've found the Robbe (and Graupner) circular servo lock products just right for the often used round, wing servo mounting holes in Euro models such as Blejzyk and Topmodel: Servo-lock Ro. Edited By RGPuk on 16/07/2012 01:30:32
  17. RGPuk
    Maybe here: http://www.schmierer-modellbau.de/1-2web-xhtml/index.htm Jürgen Schmierer Modellbau
, Im Brühl 1, 
70499 Stuttgart. Tel. 0711 / 8 87 35 95 Ro. Edited By RGPuk on 21/06/2012 22:29:49
  18. RGPuk
    Maybe this might be useful for you: **Power Pod** Ro. Edited By RGPuk on 22/05/2012 14:36:34
  19. RGPuk
    WT 60 plus 2x Hitec 322HB's at 8 quid each. More than two years and countless, tough slope hours later, still no gear slop and no problems. Ro.
  20. RGPuk
    Posted by PatMc on 04/04/2012 16:26:40: I just pushed the shaft through using a pillar drill as a press on both of mine. When the end of the shaft was flush with the body the second flat was in the right position as was the circlip with the washer in place. Does that mean that the shaft needs not to be reversed as it has two flats - and that the end of the shaft at the first flat then accomodates the washer and circlip? Ro.
  21. RGPuk
    Due to Speedo's convenience, I've ended up fly them in lots of spontaneously found slope locations with less than perfect opportunities for safe arrivals. I've found that having a brass bolt guide tube attached to each wing panel, using nylon bolts and just some ordinary Sellotape to secure things, perfect for letting go more easily to help avoid serious damage. Just remember to have some spare nylon bolts with you - plus a small screwdriver and a cigarette lighter to heat the blade up, in order to slot and extract broken bolt stubs. Ro.
  22. RGPuk
    Posted by Andy Burgoyne on 06/02/2012 19:34:24: Do you see all those screws? ...there's a reason for them reason ...   Andy Ah ha! I did wonder .....  Ro.
  23. RGPuk
    How about converting the old fixings locations to use plug-in Multiplex wing locks? Wing Locks Ro.
  24. RGPuk
    I'm not personally familiar with this particular machine, but like many moulded gliders, I imagine the additional rectangular holes in wings and fuz will be for the wing servo wiring plugs (such as Multiplex 6 pins - either floating or fixed) and the wings/fuz joins at the root are simply taped ready for flight. Ro.
  25. RGPuk
    Thanks for the pointer Austenrover.  The Flight Condition and Throttle Lock combination works just fine, and is logical, quick and easy. No use of convoluted PMixes needed what-so-ever.  Ro. .......
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