tim mock 1

Martin I made the assumption that rcm and e forum was obviously uk based, my mistake. I will try fighter aces as you suggest thank you.

Would any of you zenoah 62 guys know where I can get a billet type carb velocity stack in this country or reliable source overseas. Thanks

Thanks guys that will get me in the right direction with people that know about such things. Regards. TIm

do any of you guys know of any suppliers of manifolds/header pipes other than Toni Clark as I'm looking for one that will have 90 deg bend but also drop down 50 mm to as to get tune pipe under a high wing sports plane with engine upright. Many thanks Tim

Dear All I recently posted for sale in the Classified section here a model for sale. No takers for several weeks then an email enquiring about it. The questions seemed reasonable but the use of English was poor. A dialogue took place over a few days via email. Then an offer to purchase was made. Alarm bells rang as soon as the purchaser said he was going to send me a cheque for several thousand pounds that was owed to him and that I should bank it, keep the purchase price plus £100 for my trouble and then send him the balance. Before all this he needed my bank acct details, address, and phone number. Needles to say I didn't proceed. An obvious scam but more importantly the model wasn't advertised anywhere else so these scammers are reading this forum and trying it on, Please be careful and never release information. Cash on collection only unless you don't mind paying fees to the other type of robbers !

Jez Fitting the insulator between the head and bend will cause a cold bend and throttling problems due to condensing cold air just like full size aircraft and the need to select 'carb heat on' when taking off and landing, both critical occasions when a reliable throttle is needed. It will need an insulator between carb and bend to stop a hot carb vaporising causing difficult hot starts and poor throttle pick up from idle. You might have to fabricate something to satisfy both to keep the carb within the cowl. The bend is easy enough but the pressure pipe might have to be an external fitting with tygon tube direct into the crankcase. Another mod you might consider is fitting a pressure compensating pipe to the carb.When engines are fully cowled a pressure difference can occur in a dive etc within the cowl that affects carb metering. If you look at the carb on one side there is a removable plate with a small venting hole in.This is the atmospheric hole where the diaphragm beneath it responds to atmos pressure. The mod is to solder a small brass tube into the hole(removed)and push on tygon tube and lead this back into the fuz and undisturbed air ie normal pressure. Hope this helps Been there, done that, crashed and figured it out ! Regards Tim

Jez I'm a bit disappointed that you have made negative comments as to the value of my Heron Tigermoth kit as advertised in the classifieds. I was under the impression that forums were for the general good of the subject and as a fellow modeller I find this less than helpful. Your opinion that a part build model is of less value than a virgin kit may well be true to some but this kit/model has an interesting history and provenance that could to some increase its value beyond your perceived valuation. Although I chose not to include that info in the advert, I wasn't expecting to have to defend the advert to uphold its credibility. Your offer to help with the audit of kit contents is most welcome. Best Wishes Tim Mock

Hi Jez I was searching the forum for some info on the very same classic scale kit I have had for 3 years. I bought mine for about the same money with a deal on my DB Nieuport in exchange. Its partially built but some parts missing, like the engine mount but with the wings and fuz built its not to daunting. Do you think you could measure up the mount for me so I can make one up please? any other issues that you might have may well be already completed on mine if I can help. Regards Tim