Scruffmeister
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Everything posted by Scruffmeister
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Thanks @Philip Lewis 3, much appreciated.
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Thanks @Philip Lewis 3. Out of interest, do you take the approach of wicking the glue just as you would with CA, or do you coat the hinge itself before inserting into the slot? I'm finding that Super 'Phatic doesn't give a huge amount of time to reposition with balsa/flock so juts perfecting my technique!
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I am trying to build up the courage to use Super 'Phatic glue to secure the "CA" hinges in my current build (a 60" electric 3D/aerobat). The testing I have done with scrap wood and hinges has been successful and the joint seems very strong. The wicking properties are evident and can be seen in the top half of the hinge in the attached photo. However, I am unsure of the long term properties of the joint when subjected to constant flexing in this environment. If you have been using Super 'Phatic (or indeed any aliphatic) glue for "CA" hinges, please could you let me know your experiences, failures and longevity? Thank you!
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Thanks both, the paint appears to have taken nicely and isn't flaking. Indeed it seems fairly tough as much as I dared scratch it with a fingernail. I cleaned the surfaces with methylated-spirits before painting. Just want to give it the best chance of a long life with some kind of water-based finish/varnish. Edited By Scruffmeister on 11/04/2020 20:44:29
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Hi All, I've just painted a Dreamflight Weasel slope-soarer using Liquitex acrylic spray paint. I'm pleased with the result but think it is going to need sealing to try to stop the paint flaking and some water-resistance for when it lands in wet grass. Can anyone recommend something that can be applied from a spray can please? Extra points for a link to an online shop as I will need to mail order due to isolation! Thanks
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Hi All, I recently obtained a Seagull Challenger ARTF. Having just got it out the box it appears to have a very odd characteristic that suggests it has been incorrectly built... The port side of the model seems to have been built from 3.5mm balsa, whereas the starboard side is 5mm. I've attached some photos to show what I mean. Can anyone confirm if their Seagull Challenger ARTF exhibits this same characteristic please? Attached some photos. Many thanks!
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Just want to check this one, where a plan specifies dihedral, you would presumably measure this from the chord line if not specified? Below is the Chilli Wind plan I am working from, it does say "under" each wingtip so perhaps the intention is to put a 1" block under each tip when joining at the point shown on plan? I need to commit to an approach before I cut foam cores! Edited By Scruffmeister on 17/11/2019 21:16:04
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I'm going over the plans for the Curare 60 and Dirty Birdy with a view to putting one or the other in the build queue at some point. At this point I'm trying to identify suitable retracts and electric motor setup that I can redraw into my plans. I would be interested to hear what retracts and electric motor/prop/battery combos have worked well for models of this class/size for you? Thanks!
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Flaps is a nice idea, I definitely plan to cut the ailerons out as it's easy enough to do with the full skin I am planning... can always make a couple of different wings for it!
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Thanks Nigel, good info. Might give that a try as it simplifies the wing design!
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Nigel, did you keep the dihedral as per the plan? Just intrigued if you just joined the wings "flat" or used only bandage without ply dihedral braces...
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Thanks All!
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Thanks all. Alex, do you have any build photos or even a wing plan you'd be willing to share?
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Hopefully a nice easy question, I know ribs should be cut from 'C' grain stock but what density is recommended? SLEC and Balsa Cabin both offer soft/medium/hard. If it is helpful, these ribs will be for a Mike Delacole Chilli Wind with an own design built up wing (the original was a foam core I believe) using 3/32" ribs. Thanks
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The Rival, and its big brother Big Easy both look great - many thanks for pointing me toward those. The Rival is 55" designed for 0.46 The Big Easy is essentially a scale-up, 66" and designed for 0.60-0.90 So, with that in mind maybe 58" is the correct scaling for a .53 !? In a more general sense, is there a rule of thumb for IC of HP to wingspan for various styles of flying - e.g. the equivalent of the Watt/Kg rule used in electric flying?
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I only have an Irvine .53 engine available for this so changing engine not an option. I like the description that you would "need to throttle back for a stall-turn", but that the model would not have unlimited vertical. Ultimately this model is intended to allow me to hone my drafting/(limited) building skills and provide my kids with a hack they can use as they move beyond their BMFA A-test to hone their skills. It needs enough power to get out of trouble if I'm on the buddy box with them though! Perhaps 60" is about right? I've used this Irvine .53 on a Wot4 (ARTF, 53" and it goes like a rocket - quite a bit more powerful than I envisage for this model. I know the original Kraft design was 60" on a 60-size engine but I imagine the Irvine .53 is fairly powerful compared to a .60 of the time the plan was drawn.
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Hi All, I'd be interested to get some thoughts on this please. I'm planning on taking the classic Ugly Stik design and adapting it to suit an Irvine .53 engine. By adapting I really mean scaling although I will probably redraw the plans to hone my CAD skills. I'd like the model to be fully aerobatic to a minimum of the BMFA 'B' (Loops, Rolls, Spins, Stall-Turn) but not overpowered. My initial thoughts are to aim for around 55" wingspan, maybe 12x5" prop. What would be your ideal wingspan / prop combo for for Irvine 53 on this model? Cheers!
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Thanks all, this is really useful. PatMc - I love those marking jigs, simple yet perfect!
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Hi Broken Prop, thanks - good tips on squaring. How about marking and cutting angles take are not 90deg - this seems to be the real crux of the issue?
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Hi Geoff - I have a balsa stripper, but that's not the issue. I'm not trying to create stripwood, I'm asking how to accurately cut the uprights/diagonal braces to fit between parts such as the fuselage longerons.
