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Scruffmeister

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Posts posted by Scruffmeister

    Irvine 53 Issues

    in IC Engines

    Posted

    As foolish as it makes me feel, it looks like the thrust washer is missing! blush

    I've ordered a new one from Just Engines... just hoping that no damage has been done to the engine now by tapping the crankshaft with a hammer and generally turning it over a few dozen times while this symptom persisted.

    Just need to wait for the postman now...

    Irvine 53 Issues

    in IC Engines

    Posted

    OK, did some more investigation - with the prop off, I can push the prop shaft back/forward approx 1mm. When pushed right back I scan hear a scraping noise which sounds to be coming from the back of the engine. When pulled forward the noise is gone, but I can't tell how freely it rotates since my fingers can't turn the engine over with only the prop shaft to grip. When the propeller is put back on, no play is noticeable and the issue remains per my original post.

    I tried a couple of sharp tap with a hammer as suggested but it had no effect, positive or negative!

    So, how much work are we talking to dismantle and engine like this, get to the bottom of the issue and fix it? Although I've got experience of running glow engines I've never tried to fix one that was in a sorry state. This was meant to be a quick Winter hack for my local field as I don't tend fly glow models normally - with other build issues on the model itself I won't bore you with, it's turning into the project from hell!

    Edited By Scruffmeister on 16/09/2017 16:53:35

    Irvine 53 Issues

    in IC Engines

    Posted

    Hi All,

    I recently acquired a brand new Irvine 53 Mk2 (Japanese version, silver cowl). Ran it in on bench with about 1L of fuel per instructions, got the ABC lining nice and warm for short periods etc. All absolutely flawless. After run in would turn over nicely and freely with a finger and had a nice compression.

    I put it in a model and tried to start it, it popped and looked to start but I noticed the prop was slipping a little so obviously stopped to tighten the lock nut. Issue was that the prop was locking against the spinner backplate but not the prop hub on the engine allowing the latter to rotate slightly. (I ran it in without a spinner on my bench).

    So, the issue... I tightened the prop nut until the spinner backplate and prop hub actually locked. This required more torque than I would normally expect but done by only a small 6" spanner so I didn't think excessive. However, now when I go to turn over the engine it is stiff through the entire cycle to the point you can hardly detect it going over TDC. In no way does it feel like it would be safe to start.

    I've check it without spinner, e.g. just prop on hub + nut and exactly same stiffness so something has changed mechanically in the engine. I've check there was no contact with the cowl inducing friction and I've checked the engine wasn't flooded (it wasn't and did turn over, just suddenly very stiffly).

    So, I've broken it - but exactly what have I done!?

    Edited By Scruffmeister on 16/09/2017 15:50:34

    • Like 1

    Oil and Seizing 2-stroke Engines?

    in IC Engines

    Posted

    Bit of a random one here chaps...

    I've got a two-stroke engine here that has been in its box for a few years but is brand new, never run. Turns over nicely, no signs of rust etc.

    I wanted to give it a little oil before running, so picked up the nearest light oil to hand "Wahl Clipper Oil" and gave it a squirt in through the exhaust and glow plug hole and turned it over a few times.

    Later it occurs to me that perhaps not all oils are going to like the heat of an operating engine and may infact thicken and cause engine to seize during running in...

    So, question is - am I worrying about nothing or should I infact try to flush the clipper oil out of the engine before starting for first time and running in!?

    Edited By Scruffmeister on 28/07/2016 09:30:30

    Servos for Phase 6 Wing?

    in Slope Soaring and Dynamic Soaring

    Posted

    Just a sanity check please ... am building a Phase 6 (sport version) and have a couple of Multiplex Tiny-MG servos lying around that I would like to use for the ailerons. Am just doing a standard build, one servo per wing.

    The Tiny-MG gives 3.0 Kg/cm (42 Oz/in) at 6.0V. Will they be up to the job or do I need more torque, and if so how much!?

    Thanks

    Wot4 Mk3 Wing Puzzle

    in Traditional kits

    Posted

    I've just joined the wings on my Wot4 Mk3 - and something is puzzling me...!! Have I messed this one up badly, is it normal!?

    My building board it perfectly flat. When I lay the wings inverted on the board, the entire trailing edge both wings tip-to-root lies flat on the board as shown and there is no visible gap under the entire length of the wing:

    img_20150625_195255.jpg

    However, when I put the wing upright and put a weight on one tip, the other tip clearly rises. Is this dihedral expected in a Wot4 Mk3 as I wasn't expecting it based on how carefully I laid up the wing inverted for gluing!

    img_20150625_195321.jpg

    Cheers.

    OS81FSa needs a home

    in IC Engines

    Posted

    Thanks all, loads of great ideas! Just incase I increase in bravery, are there any well refined designs for this engine size for sport aircraft as plans that you would recommend?

    Edited By Scruffmeister on 09/06/2015 21:59:27

    OS81FSa needs a home

    in IC Engines

    Posted

    I have a brand new, un-run OS 81FSa sitting on the shelf. It was intended for a Wot4 at one point before I decided it was too heavy and went a different route for that model.

    I'd like to do another kit build after I finish my Wot4, but I'm still building up my confidence and have limited time available so I'm looking for something along the lines of Sig kits, Chris Foss etc. rather than a plan pack.

    The Acrowot seems like a good choice as I know many people like a Saito 82 in it, but the OS 81FSa weighs a good 3.5 Oz more than the Saito so is that just going to be too nose heavy or just heavy on the wing?

    What would you put it in if you had this engine and my constraints?

    Edited By Scruffmeister on 08/06/2015 18:59:52

    Help Glassing UC/Firewall

    in Sport, Aerobatic and 3D kits

    Posted

    Would finishing resin be the same thing as "low viscosity epoxy laminating resin (not 5 minute type), mixed with appropriate hardener" that Chris Foss notes in the manual for joining the wings?

    Would something like this be suitable for both wing joining and glass application around firewall/UC?

    http://www.bucks-composites.com/products/bucks-formula-50-laminating-epoxy-resin-hardener-24-hour-cure-time

    Help Glassing UC/Firewall

    in Sport, Aerobatic and 3D kits

    Posted

    I'm just getting ready to apply some glass cloth to my Wot4 kit build around the firewall and undercarriage bays for a bit of strengthening. I've not tried this before so would appreciate some pointers, especially:

    1) The material seems to fray when I cut it and when I tested epoxying it to a piece of wood and spreading the epoxy the fraying became worse leaving detached fibres. Any tricks here?

    2) Should I thin the epoxy (I have standard Zap 30 min) mix?

    3) Do you put glue, then glass on or then more glue. Or glass down dry then apply glue or something else?

    Thanks!

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