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Scruffmeister

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  1. Scruffmeister
    Consensus, if not a lot of options
  2. Scruffmeister
    I have a brand new, un-run OS 81FSa sitting on the shelf. It was intended for a Wot4 at one point before I decided it was too heavy and went a different route for that model. I'd like to do another kit build after I finish my Wot4, but I'm still building up my confidence and have limited time available so I'm looking for something along the lines of Sig kits, Chris Foss etc. rather than a plan pack. The Acrowot seems like a good choice as I know many people like a Saito 82 in it, but the OS 81FSa weighs a good 3.5 Oz more than the Saito so is that just going to be too nose heavy or just heavy on the wing? What would you put it in if you had this engine and my constraints? Edited By Scruffmeister on 08/06/2015 18:59:52
  3. Scruffmeister
    Thanks Steve. I managed to swap emails with Graham at Bucks Composites yesterday and he's sorting me out with some Formula 50, but the other links you sent look good for next time! I'll post some pictures when I've finished making a mess.
  4. Scruffmeister
    Makes sense Ken for strengthening - but given I need to join wings I'm assuming finishing resin really is the only way to go here?
  5. Scruffmeister
    Unfortunately the Bucks Composite product I linked is unavailable. Any recommendations for a good quality finishing resin?
  6. Scruffmeister
    Thanks.
  7. Scruffmeister
    Would finishing resin be the same thing as "low viscosity epoxy laminating resin (not 5 minute type), mixed with appropriate hardener" that Chris Foss notes in the manual for joining the wings? Would something like this be suitable for both wing joining and glass application around firewall/UC? http://www.bucks-composites.com/products/bucks-formula-50-laminating-epoxy-resin-hardener-24-hour-cure-time
  8. Scruffmeister
    I'm just getting ready to apply some glass cloth to my Wot4 kit build around the firewall and undercarriage bays for a bit of strengthening. I've not tried this before so would appreciate some pointers, especially: 1) The material seems to fray when I cut it and when I tested epoxying it to a piece of wood and spreading the epoxy the fraying became worse leaving detached fibres. Any tricks here? 2) Should I thin the epoxy (I have standard Zap 30 min) mix? 3) Do you put glue, then glass on or then more glue. Or glass down dry then apply glue or something else? Thanks!
  9. Scruffmeister
    kc - Nothing ready cut on bulkhead in the recently purchased Wot4 I have. Just a mark to aid positioning of motor mount. Peter - would you mind elaborating on the double-clunk method, I've not come across this?
  10. Scruffmeister
    While we're on the subject of tanks, I thought brass tube was a bad idea as it can be corroded by nitro? It looks like the Sullivan tanks come with brass tube, so do you swap it out for some other material? http://www.slecuk.com/balsa-wood/10oz--275ml--Fuel-Tank-SL857_R.html   Edited By Scruffmeister on 09/05/2015 09:42:20
  11. Scruffmeister
    Quite embarrassingly I've never actually had to purchase a glow fuel tank before - I've always used the one included with my ARTF! But now, I need one for my kit built Wot4. Are there any tanks I should avoid, or any that are head and shoulders above the rest? Obviously I need one that fits the Wot4 (around 10oz/300cc), and I'd also like it to at least allow a two line option as I may not bother with the cowl... Edited By Scruffmeister on 09/05/2015 00:01:27
  12. Scruffmeister
    Thanks for all the advice so far chaps. If anyone has any photos of the firewall / engine mounting on their Wot4s could you post them please?
  13. Scruffmeister
    I'm starting to think an OS 46AX might be just the ticket. I had one of the ARTF Wot4s a while back with an OS 55AX and it was overpowered (although great fun!). My only concern is that the ARTF will probably come out lighter than a kit built Wotty due to foam wing so perhaps the 46AX could be underpowered on the one I'm now building!?Edited By Scruffmeister on 03/05/2015 16:44:41
  14. Scruffmeister
    Thanks all, judging by the number of responses there is clearly lots of experience out there for this design as I'd expect! I'm not committed to engine choice yet, so I'd be interested to know what would be your ideal currently available engine for the Wot4 I'm building and why? I'm looking for something that can do big loops, tall stall turns at around 3/4 throttle but doesn't have to be a speed daemon!Edited By Scruffmeister on 03/05/2015 13:50:36
  15. Scruffmeister
    Ian - just to check, I assume you didn't get a firewall in two parts and it really is just the case that the instructions are a bit out of date from the actual parts supplied? Rob/Percy - many thanks for your tips. I'll keep you posted!
  16. Scruffmeister
    Just started the build of my Wot4 Mk3. I've not built one of these before nor am I an experience builder so please feel free to chip in. I do have a few questions to get things started: 1) the instructions say the bulkhead (firewall) is in two pieces that need to be joined, but a single 1/8" part seems to have been supplied. Presumably this is a change since the instructions were last updated, but the real question ... - is 1/8" sufficient for the OS 81 FSa engine I will be fitting? 2) Has anyone got any info on mounting the elevator servo in the rear. This seems like a viable option with an engine at the heavier end of the scale? Edited By Scruffmeister on 02/05/2015 20:44:37
  17. Scruffmeister

    Scruffmeister posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  18. Scruffmeister
    Apart from the ease of sanding aliphatic resin, is there any good reason to use white PVA instead aliphatic resin or vice-versa in a typical build? I understand aliphatic is more brittle, but is this really an issue - both are presumably far stronger than the wood itself?
  19. Scruffmeister
    Am considering getting a Wot4 Mk3 kit to build. If anyone can help with the questions below would appreciate it. 1) Does it come with wings cut for 2 aileron servos, or will I need to make this mod? 2) How does the GRP version's u/c compare in weight, durability to an aftermarket one made by Carbon Copy (which in my experience are very high-quality but possibly a touch heavy)? Thanks!
  20. Scruffmeister
    Looking for ideas of ARTF models to put an 80 sized four stroke in. I've already got the Ripmax/Foss kits on my radar along with another power plant so looking for other suggestions. Main requirement is for it to be an enjoyable Summer evening flyer that is quick to assemble and get in the air (which may rule out bi-planes and models like Cubs that have wing struts)? What would your ideal model be for this? Edited By Scruffmeister on 31/03/2015 18:37:33
  21. Scruffmeister
    Sadly after some testing I think they are flaws in the covering itself. Don't suppose anyone knows the make and product code of the orange film used on the Ripmax Foss models?
  22. Scruffmeister
    My new Wots Wot ARTF has some strange blemishes on the covering. Some reddish in colour, some more black. I've tried removing them using denatured alcohol but that did nothing - anyone got any tips for removing them?
  23. Scruffmeister

    Scruffmeister posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  24. Scruffmeister

    Scruffmeister posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  25. Scruffmeister
    Has anyone tried replacing the balsa core/metal outer wing tube with something lighter such as carbon tube? Out of the box the wing tube weighs a massive 68g. Since it's located all but on the CG lightening it shouldn't be a big issue for balance so I can only assume this weight penalty is a cost-saving measure.
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