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laurent Muchacho

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  1. Hi Guys, I just found out about this today but it's too important to ignore. If this law pass we might not be able to fly RC in the UK anymore. Please consider signing this petition. https://petition.parliament.uk/petitions/168112 Edited By laurent Muchacho on 14/10/2016 21:46:31
  2. I've build my own printer based on the Prusa I3 kit but with a bigger heatbed I recommended the WanHao I3 to a work colleague recently and he's been rather happy with it but it's a steep learning curve Andy as open a can of worms with material. Me I never print ABS I think it stinks (ps Andy don't try printing the plane with ABS highly not recommended) I get most of my filament from http://www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/
  3. Each plane height requirement is Spitfire and P47: 155mm P51: 185mm Glider is 185 too if I remenber right
  4. This is not bad either http://creative3d.co.uk/wanhao-duplicator-i3&currency=GBP&language=en?gclid=CNjGzrDV1soCFeTnwgod6v0CaQ
  5. Requirement to print those rc plane is mostly the size of the build volume and all require a minimum 195mm width x 195mm depth build plate. The height vary from 155mm for the Spitfire to 185mm for the P51 The good things is that the plane print using PLA and it doesn't require a heatbed to be printed then it allow cheaper entry machine. However a heatbed make things much easier. With this being said those are not easy print it take between 4 to 6 days to print all the parts for one plane (I guess if you rush it and have 0% failure rate start the print soon as they finish you might be able to print in under 3 days) There is a lot of 3D printer out there and it all depend where you place yourself a consumer product person or a happy DIY tinkerer bare in mind that with both you'll need to learn about 3d printing and go over the frustration of failed print. Andy is right the most accurate and the biggest print area is the key. My advice is don't go for a "Makerbot" just too expensive and don't buy any machine that run only on their propriatory material
  6. EDIT: I mean 100KPH in my original post not MPH sorry for the mistake
  7. Posted by Mark Kettle 1 on 28/01/2016 11:45:40: Awesome - wow. Andy Meade? Hello, do you have printing time free? Not much free time but I might get started on the P51 soon. Why would you want me to print one of them for you? Posted by Bob Cotsford on 28/01/2016 11:47:46: Fascinating Laurent. What's the flying weight and the power train? Flying weight should be around 700gr to maybe 800gr depending on the setup you'll pick. If you check the video and pdf instruction he went for a rather odd choice of power train but somehow (efficiency wise) make a lot of sense a low KV motor for multicopter and a 6 cell battery Unfortunately this don't work for me as I don't have 6 cell battery or suitable charger. I used to fly E2K Pylon and I will use the power train from those 3536 1400KV and 3 cell 2200mha with 9x6 or 7 prop should give me plenty of trust will definitely be under 100kph but still fun
  8. I've 3d printed recently my first really good rc plane a spitfire http://www.modelflying.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=39779 It's not an easy or quick print but you end up with a really good plane empty weight between 350gr and 400gr for 1 meter wingspan. Capable of speed over 100mph. I will like to add that I'm not associated to the designer I just think this is totally awesome You can view the range of planes available Spitfire, P51 Mustang, P47 Thunderbolt and glider type https://3dlabprint.com/index.php A video of the plane flying https://youtu.be/qCBdvYt-cZU
  9. Hi Dave, Been struggling to find cnc cutting services that will get back to me with a quote for cutting a few uav-flying-wing-1.2.pdf I've found on the rcgroup forum Would you be interrested in cutting a few of this at a fee? Otherwise does anyone know of a depron cnc/hotwire cutting service that could give me a quote The CAD file can be found there **LINK** Many thx in advance
  10. Well done Delta Whisky. Your extra look great! I've found that the COG point is pretty wide and on mine it was battery all the way to back make it really nice for prop hang, knife edge and the harrier arre so easy. With the original COG it felt more like aerobatic then 3D for me. Also the transmitter setup provided by PA are awesome I will search through and get my manual out to post them. Happy flying
  11. My advice is that the PA can be flown really aggressivly and I will not trust plastic gear servos under 12gr for that job but 65MG will do fine for aggressive aerobatic. If you intend to fly yours more gentle aerobatic then yes maybe below 12gr with plastic gear should work. My PA got the voltec servo as I buyed it straight from australia I did get the hardware and EPA kit I know this was an expensive purchase but an amazing birthday present I've used this servos on lot of my aerobatic from 39" http://www.giantcod.co.uk/epower-digital-metal-geared-micro-servo-p-403798.html until the last 4 I receive where no centering and showing really shaky travel I've just receive 4 of the following that I are for a 42" edge540 racer from HK http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=11856&aff=318131
  12. For the landing gear I recommend you to swap the metal screw for nylon one, in fact I've done that on all my plane that have screw on under carriage. The only things you need is a bunch of spare screw when you go flying otherwise on hard landing it will tear the bottom appart causing too much damage. With the nylon screw you are safe, the screw thread will give away or the screw will snap and your fuse remain intact. Lucky for me the damages are not too bad see pix below
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