david james 1

Had it out yesterday. All seemed well.

You are right - not too difficult. I remembered I had a little booklet "A guide to OS model 4/strokes" which helped with your advice. Polished up both followers and their holes with superfine (1200 wet and dry) soaked in 3in1 oil. They seemed a lot better and the engine now runs fine. Won't know for certain until I have a trouble free session at the field. Thanks for all your help

Doubt it - it is almost certainly aluminium. I may have to take the cam out. The follower I can see when i take the side cover off has a build up of gum/carbon at the bottom where is protudes into thec am area and is quite hard to push up and out. I imagine the one I can't see (which is giving the problem) will be as bad.

Its back to the workshop!!! I took it out again yesterday. Three of four flights working fine then a deadstick.I have checked and the follower is struck again. I have bitten the bullet and taken off the head - TIP - put a drop of paint remover on the top of the allen screws and leave for an hour or so. It softens up all the gum and allows you to clean out the socket so the key fits really well. I have freed up the follower but I would really like to take it right ouf and polish it up with a bit of superfine or scotchbrite. To push it out from underneath, I have to take the cam out. Needless to say it is the one furthest from the removeable side cover. I have then got to worry about re-timing it , which would rather avoid. Any other suggestions?

I seem to have sorted this without too much dismantling. I found a can of Carburetteor Cleaner in my workshop and dribbled a bit down the push-rod tube. After leaving it a bit I tapped down on a short piece of piano wire in place of a pushrod. This moved the tapped down. I rotated the engine to push it up, then tapped it down again. After doing this three or four times the tappet was free enough for it to go down with a light push. I replaced the pushrod and the rocker assembly and now the valve spring is enough to allow the valve to close. I have put some fuel down the tube and run it over on the starter to make sure it is completely free. I have adjusted the rocker clearance and job done.

It is not the valve that is sticking -it is the cam follower. I have taken the rocker assembly off and can feel the outlet push rod going up and down as I rotate the engine but not the inlet.one which is stuck in the up position.

Yesterday I took out a model powered by a Surpass 70 which hadn't run for some time. It would not start but I soon diagnosed that the inlet valve was stuck open. A bit of fuel down the pushrod tube and it freed up and I had three or four flights with the engine running fine. The day ended with a deadstick and I have found the inlet cam-follower (tappet?) is now well and truly stuck. I have even put a short bit of piano-wire in place of the push-rod and tried gently tapping it with a hammer. Any suggestion? Do I have to take the head off and remove the push-rod tubes to get at them? I know from experiend the cap-headed cylinder head screws can be very hard to undo - i have found id it easy to round off the allen key sockets so I would like to avoid this if possible

Looking at the photo above - is there any reason why a needle with a cross-bar would not fit? Do they have the same thread as the screwdriver type?

Would be grateful if you could have a look!

that is my fall back position I can't find one on ebay or google

It is a Kalt KG 22 The carb is a Walbro 288

It is the hi-speed needle. It is about 12-15mm long with a 4m thread. It has an enlarged head (to retain the spring) with a screwdriver slot Hope this helps to identify it

I tried to give my DR1 triplane a spin last week and could't get the engine to fire up. On closer examination, i have found that one of the carby needles has been lost -don't know how - Iv'e never touched it. I think the needles are the same on all walbro carbs, so does anyone have a scrap engine/carby and would like to donate/sell a needle?

Thanks for your help

I didn't think you could range check a 2.4 gig Tx aand was surprised to find my friends doing so using a special button. I don't have a manual for my 7C so can anyone tell me if I can range check it and how.

Posted by Jim Carss on 09/03/2012 21:29:38: Just started on my new Premier 66"kit today for a Saito 80. didn't know you can still get these. I flew one for years on an OS91surpass My only tip would be to use better ply for the lower wing dihedral braces. My chinese pilot (Wun Wing Lo) broke these a couple of times

I should have asked how does it fly? I fitted an OS 200 4 str - plenty of power, I would have thought. The original owner had a radial but my friend was too mean to buy that with it.

Many thanks to Peter saving my life. what we did we do before the internet? David

Thank you - should have thought about that -don't use the forum very often-only when in a panic!

PM me for mail thanks in advance Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 15/04/2012 19:03:37

I fitted the engine in one of these for a friend. In the process, I seem to have mislaid his instruction book. Could someone who has one scan and email me a few pages. The plane is fully built and we only need the pages covering rigging and set-up (control throws etc) please.... or I will lose a friend...

I have to rebuild the front fuselage of my Tiggy since I had a major woopsie. As I bought rather than built it, I don’t have any plans. Can some kind soul lend me the relevant sheet to copy? As I am in the UK, it would be easiest if it were a contributor from this side of the Pond. Thank you David Edited By david james 1 on 04/10/2011 17:45:32

I wish i had received the good advice about arranging the cowl so you can take it off without disturbing the exhaust. If I had followed that, i don't think i would ever have got into this mess.   Anyhow, after consulting some American web-sites, my son-in-law, who is visiting the US, is going to post it to Clarence Lee for repairs at a cost of about £30 incl postage back. I could probably have got one of my mates in the club to rethread it to a larger size and make up an adapter but, at this price, a professional repair seemed good value. Just Engines were no help.

I have ruined the thread holding the exhaust to my saito FA-180 cylinder head   The thread is unusual (14mm by 1mm pitch) and i don't think helicoils are available.   I know these can be repaired in the states. Does anyone know who can repair them here.   Thanks