Codename-John

im guessing a "wireless" trainer system wouldnt need a buddy lead ? never seen one tho and ive looked around quite a bit for a lead for my 7c tx

make up an ARTF, say it was scratch built and your garenteed an A when they see the quality lol

like eck i get mine from my LMS when i call in or wh smiths or tesco etc, im keeping folk in business but excluded from half the forum

For an interactive lesson why not join a club and learn properly ? lol your plane will last longer too with someone to stand by you and help with set up, trimming, and any difficult situations you get yourself into

ive just started using one of their jen .47 engines, runs sweetly now ive put a few tankfulls through it, but even tho i paid £15 for the running in service it was still very tight to begin with, id recommend the engine but save yourself the £15 cos ya still have to run it in more anyway

Hey stig, Like yourself im fairly new to the forum, im learning with a seagull boomerang too, theyre a great plane, i did have a sc 46 engine in it, was easily enough power, normal circuits didnt even require half throttle, but was having running problems which was no good for confidence building so ive jus got a jen 47 to go in it insted, havent tried it out yet but fingers crossed, ive also found it a lot easier to set some exponential into my transmitter to make it even easier to control for a while until my thumbs get gentler lol, theres bound to be some more info on doing that on here, As for the artf mosquito, what ive done is get a proper kit and take time building it for after the boomerang to further your skill, gets rid of the itch to buy things for a while and gives you something to get your teeth into, mines a top flight p-51  

thanks for replys, o rings in carb look ok, clubmates checked all through it, took needle out blew down it etc, took feed nipple off to check there all fine, clunk doesnt have a filter, its filtered when being pumped in, plug is an enya no 3, tried 2 different ones, its the front carb version, (so i can trim my finger nails while tuning it, who says men cant multi task ! lol) ill cut the first few mm off the nipple ends of tubing and try the brown envelope, for next time and let ya know, many thanks neil

afternoon folks, as the title suggests my sc 46 keeps dying after a few minutes running, its only about 10 hours old max, bought brand new about sept last year. on the ground it runs sweet, tunes fairly easily most of the time tho sometimes does falter when opening up the throttle from tickover, my clubmates have spent quite a while trying to set the needles but it seems to change its-self somehow, the last time i flew it first flight was great, nearly 20 mins without a problem, second flight ran for 5 mins then died, on landing there was air in the fuel line, started again and had another 10 mins problem free, 3rd flight 5 mins died, landed started again took off then weirdly it runs ok during straight and level flight but during turns starts spluttering, then died. called it a day there and went home with advice from clubmates to check tank, fuel lines, clunk etc which ive done, checked tank and lines under water all fine, clunk is free away from edge of tank etc so its not a problem with tank. ive taken the carb off to check it over for debris, worn o ring, loose screws etc and all looks good one thing i have noticed is that is no gasket fitted between the backplate and the engine case and was wondering if this is correct, or without it maybe its expanding when its heating up and letting air in, hence the air in the fuel line, and general sickness ? any advice welcomed, cheers, neil

Ive had a couple of good experiences lately, tonys models was one, over the xmas period, ordered a few bits servo`s, a kit, covering iron etc, had an email next morning saying as only some of it was in stock did i want to cancel order and be refunded, wasnt in a rush so i said it doesnt matter carry on, next morning had one delivery off them of the bits that they had in stock, just after new year another delivery then another a few days later, so as soon as they got them i had them the next day, didnt ask for any extra postage or anything and kept me well informed throughout. Galaxy ive ordered from a few times and always had good service, again if things are out of stock when ordered ive had the bits they do have straight away and the rest asap. The one problematic order ive had was with moor models, no return email or other contact to confirm my order so after two weeks of waiting i emailed to say if they had recieved the order to cancel because it was no longer required, still no reply, then 2 weeks after that they money goes from my card and the bits ive tried to cancel because they didnt even acknowledge the order arrive at my house

dont eat yellow snow !

here, i have the same tx, as far as i know most futaba sets are compatible,whatever the other is they just have either a round or square jack at the back, you can get a square to square or square to round cable, and an adapter either way too i think i saw, kings lynn model shop i had my set from, and they seemed to have everything so might be worth a try Edited By neil whilding on 22/02/2011 21:14:59

you did better than me today anyway dude, i got up earlyish this morning, got everything ready, made sure batteries were all charged, loaded the van up, drove the 15 mins or so and our field was deserted when i got there ! i was wounded, stayed for half an hour and still nobody turned up, weather was ok up there too, dry, a little bit of wind, good visibility, but nope, not a soul

oh my days, surely its gonna cost more for a new wheel and to repair the damage to the hub and bits of hot metal flying off it, than to get towed to a tyre place

Great looking build so far, im doing a Topflite kit, the P-51 D Mustang 1/7th scale, can i ask around how long it took to receive your retracts after ordering cos ive just ordered mine direct from robart like yourself, worked out about £100 cheaper even paying $60 postage ! also can i ask where you get waxed paper from, im using baking / greaseproof paper under mine an it sticks to the cyano joints everytime cheers, Neil

thanks lads, it is a beautiful flying site, tho a little windy at times, im useless with names tim, id know him if i saw him probly, but how will a pic of a motor help me get the best of the forum lol ?

this is getting petty now hamish, your hands are naked when they are in the water, whats the difference if its one part of your body or the whole thing ? Approved document p of the building regulations states that with regard to a dwelling, if any new circuits are added to an installation or any extensions or alterations occur to any circuit within the kitchen, bathroom or outside must be reported to the local authority building control, this is not a requirement just to comply with bs 7671 2008 so yes there is additons in document p, satisfied ?

i am but youd have to ask backer ? lol the problem is as you say nusiance tripping, if your out for the day / week or whenever and your rcd trips the whole installation your freezer defrosts and all your food is spoilt, but as long as nothing is faulty in the installation or plugged into it its a miniscule problem anyway that you never really hear of, but its specifed in the regs that if a socket is specificly marked and only used for certain items you can omit the rcd protection

but if you have to get picky of exact definitions for part p of the building regulations it is included hamish, how are you less at risk in water in kitchen than the shower you dont normally wash your hands in the kitchen sink with insulated gloves on

hey been a lurker for a little while so im just introducing myself, im a member of Wrexham m.a.c. since late last year, i used to fly years ago with an mfa yamamoto and a few precedent kits as a boy but didnt get very far, and started up again last year, re-learning with a seagull boomerang to do my A test with. I enjoy building "proper" kits too and ive just finished building a galaxy scorpion for a follow on to the boomerang after lots more practice,and just to keep me occupied have a top flite 1/7th p-51d kit just started but thats gonna take all year probly

hamish its more or less anywhere you might encounter water see http://www.competentperson.co.uk/files/consumerbooklet.pdf for more detail, regarding the freezer, it would have to be its own circuit, with the cable either not buried less than 50mm from the surface of the wall or with an earthed mechanical protection, such as the conduit mentioned. then a dedicated labelled socket just for that, or better a fused spur with the freezer permanently connected, things like smoke detectors as well dont have to be protected thats why on the better new boards theyre split 2+5+5 or so, 2 non rcd ways and 2 sets of 5 protected ways, you could still use a "16th edition" board if you were using surface mounted trunking or conduits and just have socket and special location circuits protected

under the 17th ed regs any sockets for use by ordinary persons in a house must have rcd protection, and any other circuit must have rcd protection if it is in a "special location" ie, kitchen, bathroom or outside, then, in england and wales, under part p of the building regulations any new additional circuits or alterations to existing circuits in a special location must be tested and certified in accordance with the 17th ed regs, and reported to the local building authority, which costs around £180 for you to do or £1.50 for a registered electrician on a competant person scheme, terence it sounds like you have an earth system called a TT system with a spike in the ground outside, and the earth fault path would be too high to certify unless an rcd was added, and to get around this sometimes the MEB put a 100mA rcd in to protect the supply, domestic circuits need a 30mA so its worth checking to see if its correct