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Thanks for your advice guys. It looks loke I will be ordering the CNC pack then

You guys have realy inspired me. I realy love planes from this era. This will be my first balsa build, having made many planes from depron and EPP. Just a few questions though: What is the best glue to be using for the bulk of the build, C.A. or PVA? Dose anyone have the CAD drawings on a computer file they can share? I can then get them cut out at work on a laser CNC cutter we have. That way I will not have the incorrectly cut parts in the kit and it will make the plane feel more like mine.

Finaly flew mine last saturday. The all up weight is 600g with a 1:1 power to weight ratio and C of G at 12cm. 3mm reflex. Launched on three quarter throttle and it went vertical once released. With full down trim on the elevator at half throttle it was still climbing and when full throttle was added in climbed at a very steep angle. This is going to need some down thrust on the motor to sort out. Went into the first turn on the recommended low rates. Not a chance. Switched to high rates which I had some expo dialed in and this was more like what I usally fly on low rates. The plane flew very well. Loops and rolls were nice. It even flew well on a quarter throttle and kept its altitude well. The shape can be a little disorientating at times and my colour scheme didn't help. After 7 min I went high to try the stall out before landing. Disaster, I went out of radio range.   So the moral of this story is if you are thinking of buying one of the cheep orange receivers for your spektrum radio, don;t. They are not copies of AR6100. The range is on were as good. They are only any use for indoor flying. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

I have also had problems with the wing skins. UHU POR was not strong enough to hold the skin down even when left over night. I ended up epoxying the leading edge of the skin and leaving over night then epoxying the rest the next day. Once it was dry it held fast, but the balsa dose warp the wings slightly because of the force exerted by it trying to go straight again. After I had finished I thought why not use 3mm depron. It is easier to bend and costs a fraction of the price of balsa. You could use UHU POR as a contact glue with this and be done in minutes.   @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

A XP67 sounds great. I would like to have a go at making that. I was going to glass it to make it more resilliant and should make a better finish after painting. I belive from what other people say that glassing will only add about 4oz . I was going to fly with a 1300mAh battery so with the extra weight of the glassing it should be like flying with a 2200mAh battery which in your build said worked ok. It should draw a bit of attention at the field as well which is always good. @import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Thanks for the help guys. I have made a few foamies over the last couple of years but none that look this good.   I am thinking of having a go at glassing this one. I have some very light weight glass cloth on order and am going to order some ploy-c to give it a go. Been wanting to have a go at glassing for the past year but not made anything that was worth the effort and expense. This one though I think will be worth it, I like the unusual planes.   Love the colour scheme you used Glenn. What make/type of paints did you use and what were the colours called, I would like to do the same colour scheme.

I have started to cut mine out but have a couple of questions. Dose the wing have a spar in it at all apart from the winglet at the end? What is the best glue to use for glueing down the balsa top sheeting? I hope someone can enlighten me. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);