Don Fry
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Posts posted by Don Fry
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And to keep costs down, an orange DSM2 6 channel receiver will do the job, cheap 20C lipo to power it, and anything in the recommended range of capacity. You will be knackered before the battery runs flat. If you decide to go for the flap option, get an experienced flyer to trim it. Without flaps you should get an experienced flyer to trim it. If you break it, replace it with an airframe only kit, and change the bits over to the new airframe.
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Plug and fly Bixler 3 from Hobbyking, very forgiving.
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And if the conditions aren't perfect walk away with an intact model. The most difficult bit in this game is resisting the evil little devil in your mind 'oh go on, it will be OK'. If you ever meet an experienced flyer who says he/she hasn't broken one braking this rule, you are talking to a fibber. Best of luck. And don't give up, it will be worth it
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I have a artf P40, same problem, as the makers assumed the motor if a 4 stroke would be sidewinder, when the cowl is plenty deep enough to hide the motor/silencer inverted, the downside is the tank position comes in too high, about 2 inches. The feed loop on mine runs to near the top of the cowl, then down to the engine. It works fine, fuel it, open the throttle, apply starter to draw fuel, apply glow power and away it goes, no problems. And it is simple and cheap. KISS principle applies.
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Pete B - Moderator, is a genius and all round good egg. My maiden flight plan is saved. As an aside how do folk get to know such things, as I have found the supplied instructions with this transmitter to be sparce to say the least.
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Hi,stupid speaking. I am trying to program a motor glider. It has 5 flight modes. Fine so far. However the warning on the transmitter that the throttle stick is high when you power up disappeared in this memory. So I went to the warnings menu in system setup and tried to set up a warning re throttle high on power up. I was having trouble working out what boxes to highlight, and ended up highlighting all the flight modes and motor position 1. now when I power up all I get from Doris is "warning flight mode (whatever flight mode I am in)" or "warning moter position 1", and the transmitter will not power up any further so I can get at the menu to change things. None of the switches override the warnings and I can't find the DX9 version of Ctrl/alt/delete on a PC. Any ideas from anyone aged 6 years or older. anyone under six please do not reply, too humiliating.
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Many thanks David, your system will go on my try list. It looks good, is cheap, and is reversible, a good list when working on a almost finished model which has already cost a lot of effort. I think I will knock up a 2 foot wing section, cover it and experiment
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Tony, I am most grateful for the advice and the time you took. I was working under the assumption that the fabric was prepainted prior to covering, daft when you think. I am of an age where dope and nylon was the standard finish on models and should have remembered that it would be impossible to put predoped nylon on a wing, and linen would be no different. When I looked closely at some of the photographs in my Winsock datafile, rather that the colour plates, I could see that the rib positions were visible because of paint strike off the brush. The artist didn't do this and all I was doing was drooling on the colour jobs.
I will speak to Fighteraces re colours.
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Thank you jrman, but if I read the colours right are they not WW2 colours?
Tony, as you say, wonderful workmanship, but can you see what I mean about colour blinding up in the rib lines.
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Thanks. The streaky finish predates the use of lozenge finish. It was done in the factory, as you say by a man in a hurry, on the canvas before installation on the aircraft, by dipping the brush in the paint, and then brushed on til the brush ran out of paint. There was no brushing out, over painting, or messing about to improve what it looked like.
I take on board that there is little structure under the wing, but the stripes do not go fore and aft, but at a, I guess, fifteen degree angle, so if done as suggested would give me a solid bar effect on each rib position which would not look right. The fus is also streaked. There is a lot of structure under the covering here.
What I think I need is a method of colouring the fabric prior to covering, but I have no experience of how to do this.
Its too hot here, driven from the field yesterday when it hit 32 centigrade, and only half eleven in the morning. Thank god the workshop has stone walls two thirds of a meter thick! Went in there and sulked.
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I am aboutt to start covering a quarter scale Fokker DR1. I fancy doing it in the factory standard "streaky" brushed painted finish. From the windsock datafile a scale brush would be 2 cm wide. The problem I see is that you can't paint it when covered as the brush will strike the underlying structure and leave solid paint where it does so. I have a few ideas on how to over come this, and will try a few experiments on pre finishing the covering prior to application. But does anyone know how to achieve this finish. Also where do I get, or a mix recipe, for the turquoise colour of the wing underside. I throw myself on the knowledge of the community.
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I want to learn that the walk of shame when I carry the wreckage into the house is in my head. The neibours are not watching, and in any case do not care. Also learn that high speed low inverted passes cause the above condition.
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A severe worry for me, at the age of sixty two years two months, is only a small proportion of sixties will still be flying in their seventies. Thank you rcm@e, I will be depressed all day now. Don
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It's the walk of shame gettting the bits out of the car when you get home that gets me, the missus is never very sympathetic.
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I have recently cost the French government a fair bit in physiotherapy costs to sort out tennis elbow caused by my habit of starting engines by hand. Getting old and knackered. Thats the engines, I am still a sex god, but accepted a mishapen one. Is there a bit of electric gagitry, electronics whatever which would allow me to strap a lipo batter under an electric starter to get a self contained unit and protecting the battery from excessive discharge.
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Just do not make a comment on shoe purchases. And by the way, a piece of knowledge, when the price of shoes is mentioned, the price can be quoted for each.
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Quite a lot are both I would think, along with self mutilation, house brick heading, sticking ten pound notes up your backside and lighting them, and anything else daft, expensive, and potentially painful. I would exclude our glider bretheren, no pain for them, but they are just odd.
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Thank you for the aliphatic resin trick. A relevation.
Re the sand solution my thought is that the small dense lead rolls hold the sheet down, but are small enough to see the job/joints and when done I walk away, secure in the knowledge than the job will be good in the morning. No stress. Does a sand bag not hide the joint. have not tried it, but being idle, any thoughts anyone. Shifting my idleness, from the internet, I found relative density figures, lead is 11300, steel 7850, loose sand 1440. I worked out that for 2 mm loose shot about half its volume is air, sooo relative density becomes (about) lead shot 5500, steel shot 3900, sand 1440. This gives the relative radius of the weight rolls used to squash down the sheet is, in savage rough terms as lead 1 unit, steel not much more, sand 2 units. So good bye lead, too dear, perhaps steel, half the price and near as good, but sand, and I never thought of it, is free.
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Re aliphatic resin. Am I getting this right that you can apply it, let it dry, then reactivate it with a hot iron like solarfilms' balsa lock works on solarfilm.
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Two years ago, autumn time, I opened the workshop door, to see an adder sliding under the workbench, quite likely to hibernate. Big sod too!. All winter I if I dropped something under the bench, it stayed there, and I fancied that my buttocks looked very trim by spring, And do not ask if I looked. The mess under there at the best of times is horrendous,solar tex wrappings, balsa shavings, and the thought of trying, no no, not going there, feel post traumatic stress coming on even thinking about it.
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What is aliphatic resin? I take it this is different to the yellow sanding frendly stuff we all use on structure glueing.
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I use lead shot in cloth rolls to weigh sheets to structures while the glue dries, great for curved sheets like leading edge sheet, and does not distort the sheet as pinning does. Am about to buy more, and on searching e bay and the like have found in the last 20 years it has become expensive. I see on e bay that people sell steel shot, and it is a fraction of the price. Less dense than lead, but does it do the job? Anyone any experience of steel shot, or even views on how to attach leading edge sheet without stress. Stress leaves callouses on the soul.
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ah, the memories of youth before fags, drink, and sex. I remember myself well, chest stuck out with a flat stomach, rather than the other way round.
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Also be careful regarding engine cooling, they overheat at altitude. (less mass of air going through cowl) A slightly smaller prop can help, the engine does not produce the power (no oxygen) so is less powerful and can no longer swing the big prop.
Epoxy alternative
in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
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I use Gorilla glue (expanded polyurathane) instead of epoxy. Never had a problem on up to 180 size airframes (I don't fly bigger than that). If on a really stressed area you want belt and braces, drill a couple of shallow holes in the glue faces, the glue will expand into the holes, and physically key the parts together. Otherwise white PVA or aliphatic has no allergic responses. You could probably drink it in moderation. I also read somewhere of a bloke who used old fashioned balsa cement in conjunction with white glue, balsa cement for fast grab while the White glue sets to form a strong bond. His models did the job.