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John Stephenson 2

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Everything posted by John Stephenson 2

  1. Hi Andy Nash, brokenenglish and Andy Green, Thnks for your kind words of encouragement. John
  2. Posted by Andy Nash on 18/01/2013 17:21:40: I still have the plan and a very old picture. If you want I could look it out and scan a copy in? Hi Andy, Yes please. John
  3. ....and lastly for today, pic of the underside of engine mount. I drilled 3mm holes for the engine bolts and then, from the underside, I counterbored the holes 2mm deep x 5mm dia (the distance across flats). The nuts were then pulled into the counterbore and look as though they were molded in flush. John
  4. Test fit fuel tank, servo tray, engine mount and lastly the instrument panel, which idea I stole from the Forum. John
  5. It's been a hard choice which model to build cause I like them all - Super 60, Mini Super, Sub Mini, Bi Mini, Micro Super. However I decided upon the Mini Super, although I will have to build the Bi Mini sometime - it's a beautiful model. Pic of fuselage nearing completion - needs nose cone/engine cowl built up with blocks, then a good sand level and seal prior to covering. John
  6. Very sad. Thanks Chris for helping a beginner in need. You'll be missed. Deepest sympathy to your family & friends. John
  7. Thanks for your comments. The air leak could have been me not fitting the carb correctly - I just dropped it in and tightened the bolt. Have now lubricated the 'O' ring and pressed down hard while tightening the bolt. Will give it a run tomorrow - bad day (weather) today in the Highlands. John
  8. Thank you for all your replies. I have checked all bolts this morning and everything is air tight on this new engine. Prior to running in on test stand, I did a trial fit in the model and set up the throttle on the linkage with a very small opening with zero on transmitter, then pressed the cut button and it closes the throttle completely. Looks as though I'll have to live with the very slow tickover when shutting down. John
  9. Have now run 3 x 4oz tanks through engine and it is running just fine. But, it wont stop with the throttle fully closed it just keeps running very slowly - I have to pinch the fuel pipe to stop it. How does this work in the air with the engine stop button on the transmitter. Thanks, John
  10. Hi Ken, I did look at reversing the rubber insert before I cobbled up the reducing bush, but the small hole is only 7/16" dia and not large enough to grip these blunt nosed spinners. I'll try and enlarge it with a cone shaped carborundum keeping it true. John
  11. Asking for help again. Are there reducing bushes made for starter cones. I had to use a piece of water hose and wrapped one end with insulation tape until it was a snug fit in the rubber insert. The hole size is about 5/8" to suit these 20mm spinners. It worked and started my SC15, but it is a bit of a botch up. Thanks, John
  12. SUCCESS !!!!!! Starts first time every time now. What have I changed : 1. The plug I was using looks as though it's marked the top of the piston - not the main body of the plug but the bit where the coil is spot welded to the body. Changed to an OS No. 6. 2. Rechecked settings - main screw 3 turns out and idle needle 2 turns out. The idle factory setting was about 1/2-3/4 turns out with the throttle at zero. 3. Used an electric starter. It's not run in yet but sounds sweet up to full revs and it will idle smoothly. A very big thank you to all who helped with suggestions - without that help I would have given up and bought an OS. Glad I persevered. John
  13. Thanks Paul, Alan, Starloc & Tony, Failed again!!!!! Checked all tubing and jets as suggested and everything clear. The engine pumps fuel. Another couple of hours today and same thing as yesterday - engine runs at slow revs then quits. It just doesn't seem to have the guts to speed up. I know someone in this thread advised against an electric starter but I feel with that little extra push it will burst into life. So, I've ordered one and an 8x6 prop as advised. Plasters on blisters, arthritic fingers playing up and back aching!!!! Beer time again. Will report back next week with results using starter. John
  14. Failed. I have modified the fuel tank bracket, so top of tank is now 3/8" above the main needle valve. Have also taken off the fuel filter. Set up outside - very cold today - the engine still won't run. It will fire up for 2-3 seconds on nearly every flick of the prop and then die without picking up revs. I have varied the main needle + & - from 2.1/2 turns out and the idle screw + & - from 2 turns out with the throttle closed. There was a slight improvement when I turned up the high-low setting on the Micropro power panel for the glow start. Gave up about 5 o'clock after over 3 hours trying to start. Clutching at straws, I stripped down the carb and all is spotless with a very smooth throttle operation. Time for a beer - will have another go tomorrow. John
  15. moorer & Alan, Just checked the fuel tank and the bottom is level with the needle valve, but I can move it down about 1/2" or so on the alloy angle pieces to bring the centre of the tank in line with the needle valve. I note your comments and suggestions and will certainly report back. John
  16. Rusty - Hi - We are at Killin until a week on Sunday, then move onto Newtonmore - just south of Inverness - for two weeks, then we are heading to the North Coast. If I get this engine running, I am planning to teach myself to fly on those quiet northern beaches with my first model, a 48" Ben Buckle Good News. John - will give it a go with the filter off. The black thing is just a plastic cap I put over the intake when making up the test stand to stop sawdust and alloy shavings getting into the engine. John
  17. Hi Peter, Steve & Doug - thanks for your posts. Will get some Taylor plugs - should I order these with the spray bar or without? Didn't get round to engine run today - we're away in the Central Highlands of Scotland in the caravan and it has rained all day - maybe tomorrow. However, I've made up a more substantial test stand. First one was on a small plastic tool box and it moved when engine briefly fired up. I've also cobbled up a glow start lead to operate from the caravan or car. The rechargeable glow start was working but the plug was not that bright. John
  18. Thanks Stephen and Paul for idle info. Have written it down. The previous posts saying how owners are pleased with their SC15's has really restored my faith in this engine. I was ready to see how far I could throw it today - I will love it from now on!!! John
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