Bucksboy
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Posts posted by Bucksboy
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Can I be a late joiner to the party please? A FW 190 with red 23 markings please. It can be my Christmas present!
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I’ve got two of these excellent radios. I’ve used a 2 cell lipo in it for years without any problems. I used their white plug, I never did find where I could buy another one.
Mike Ridley repaired it when my son managed to ram the plug in the wrong way round and shorted it. Despite the clear red/ black sticker and the plug making it so that can only go in one way round. He managed it. 😳
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I talked to one of the big traders at Wings and Wheels earlier in the summer about their September shows. They said that Popham had changed dates to the 2/3rd September which clashed with two other big shows. They were already committed to the Southern show and couldn’t attend Popham. The other big trade stands list the shows they’re attending and none seem to list Popham. I really enjoyed the first two shows at Popham but I do like to take advantage of the trade tents too.
The website has long promised a list of attendees but as Futura says, the list has never appeared.
I’ve never organised a show and have no idea about the amount of work required. I’ve no doubt that there are good reasons why the date has to be the same weekend as two other big shows. But sadly for Popham, I’ll go where the trade tents are. -
I've got a dog tracker and it's switched on all the time and worn on his collar. Most of the time it detects the home wi-fi and uses very little power ( the thing lasts well over a week) When we go out away from home wi-fi the tracker starts transmitting its location every 5 minutes, but, as most of the time I can see or hear him, I don't need it. When I lose sight of him I use the app on my phone to activate it to 'live' and it transmits its location every 5 seconds. I can then see where he is on a map and it draws a line so I can see his route.
The advantage for modellers is that it has its own built in sim card so works everywhere there is a phone signal. Secondly, most of the time it's not transmitting very often and has very low power consumption. Should your plane go down, simply activate the 'live' setting and you'll be able to see where it is. It's about the size of a matchbox, self contained and splash proof, it's designed to fit on a dogs collar after all.
I've got no idea if there would be a conflict with the various signals by carrying this thing in the aircraft. I don't use it on the plane but I thought I'd explain how my tracker works, it's a Tractive brand, but I think they are all similar.
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A group of us go in May and have done for several years, we’re booked to go again this year. We wouldn’t go back if we didn’t enjoy it. I look forward to it, a relaxing time, good weather and a chance to fly.
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Flyball, could you add another photo of the underside of your Spitfire. It looks very similar to one from Sportsman Aviation that I had years ago but sold on. It flew very well but had non scale undercarriage as the undercarriage retracted inwards rather than out. It gave it a much wider track which was good. It also sported a vivid blue colour on the underside so a photo would help.
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Gents, my mistake, there were 19 boards for £27/28. I’ll use the Hobbycraft paper backed where I feel I need extra strength or rigidity, the plain stuff for the rest. No need to peel any paper off at all.
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Right, I'm slowly getting there. I'm using the HobbyCraft paper backed board, I've been unsuccessful at removing the paper. I've used an iron and every square inch of paper puts up a fight. I've tried various temperatures and even ended up nearly melting the foam inside. So, life is too short to peel paper off foam.
My local B & Q was out of the Vitrex underlay so all building was put on hold over Christmas and birthdays. The next nearest B & Q was shown as holding stock so I visited them, I couldn't locate the stuff in the store. When I found someone to ask, they found it high up totally out of reach to customers. It was about £26/27 for 9 sheets.
So I've tried again with more success. I had made two wings from the paper backed board, one was flat on the bottom and one was symmetrical, not good. I've built another wing today using paper backed board on the bottom and the black foam for the top skin. I rescued the foam spars and reused them. Both wings appear the same now. The one from two layers of paper backed weights in at 115gm and the black foam/white paper backed foam one is 95gm. As I intend to cover them both with brown paper and PVA, I don't think anyone will notice. I've added two ply braces between the wings and guessed the dihedral angle.
I'll look again at the fuselage, this has been cut from the paper backed board but I'll be using the black foam board to skin it. I might remake it or just make do with my first attempt. I've still got to cut lightening holes in it but don't have pictures yet.
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Thanks gents, I've read most of the build threads, I'm using UHU Pro rather than a hot glue gun and I've sourced paper free foam board from amazon. I've also bought the paper covered boards from Hobbycraft. I'd missed any motor recommendations though, I'll contact Four Max in the New Year for a motor/esc/prop combo.
I'll attack the rear with a hole cutter to remove weight too. I doubt if I'll getting much free time for a week or two now though!
Thanks for the replies, Happy Christmas all!
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Martin,
I'm having a go at this 109 over the holidays. Can I ask which motor/ esc you put in this plane please?
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After you apply the cloth, hang a load of pegs on the overhang. The weight of these will hold the cloth in place as it cures. Once dry, sand off the excess and then repeat the other side. If you start with the underside, then the top, the minimal overlap will be slightly better hidden.
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I too used sanding sealer on the balsa before glassing, mine de-laminated following a crash. After speaking to the dealer I found that it was the sanding sealer that didn’t allow a good base. He recommended sealing with thinned resin or not at all. I use a foam roller, the resin is really smooth after that. A quick sand and a second coat followed by another quick sanding leaves a fantastically smooth, fuel proof skin.
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I went with a modelling mate and we both enjoyed the show. The flying was great with different models to that I saw at Wings and Wheels. The trade show was bigger than I imagined and everything seemed well organised. As we left I found out that it was only the second show, I was even more impressed. We’ll certainly return next year.
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Thanks for the replies. Convention says not to put servos in the tail as it needs lead to balance. However, I’m happy to accept that most plane designers know a lot more than me. So I thought I’d check, I’ll try and fit my servos in the fuselage to keep tail weight to a minimum.
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It’s good to see a few Defiants at last. I’ve just started on mine and I’m starting with the tail. The plans show the elevator servos in the tail. Can I ask, did you all follow that or move them forward? Thanks!
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I’m with John on this one, a small foam roller is by far the easiest way. The roller doesn’t snag the same way as a credit card. If you look up Bucks Composites, they have a ‘how to’ article which explains it. ( I’m nothing to do with them by the way)
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Yours looks great, I’ve got the same plan and semi kit with mouldings awaiting a build. I too normally fly ic and was tempted to go electric on this one.
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Here’s mine, it’s taken me ages to build it but I flew it yesterday for the first time. It’s the 63” version with a Laser 80 for power. I’ll dirty it up a bit but it’s hard to see anything as it screams past. I explained a while ago, the colours are a bit awry. A friend painted it for me and I wasn't going to ask him to repaint it. As I said, when it’s hurtling past it’s hard to see the red cowl!
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I’m trying to view the magazine through Pocket mags but the August edition is showing for September as well. Someone else said it was fixed but mines still showing the same August edition on 20/8. Very frustrating.
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Yes, Flightradar24, I actually pay for the app but the free version tells most what they need to know. Where’s the plane has come from, where’s its going to, speed, height etc.
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Here’s my Warbird Replicas Lavochkin 7, built by me over the last year. It’s got a Laser 80 in it but is unflown. As I work abroad that won’t happen until the end of the summer.
Its been painted by a friend, the colours are a bit off, a result of the photo being transferred several times and then printed. However, he’s made such a good job of it that I don’t care. Maybe it will be easier to see in flight. It weighs in at 10lb 10 oz, 2 oz overweight to the figures give by Richard.
I’ll touch up the control horns and dirty it up a bit, add panel lines too. But it was easy to build and looks great.-
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I've built two of these, they fly really well. It will slither and slide off grass but I built a dolly to make take off not quite so scary. It has a mind of its own as it picks up speed over the grass and many take off's were aborted when the direction was wrong.
My batteries were in the nose to achieve the balance, I have the two inners linked together and the two outers. If something fails I still have some power.
Flying off snow meant that water got in and I stripped off the film and glassed the lower hull. It's a great looking plane that lumbers around the sky and looks the part.
Sorry, I can't find any photos on this computer.
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Test to add photo
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I fly at West London, the Astro turf runway is excellent. As you guessed, it’s not cheap to lay. We used a professional firm to lay the foundations and lay the turf. We extended it a year or two later as it was very popular but a bit small. We too used a second hand hockey pitch given to us for free. The main reason we went for such a strip was that rabbits were constantly digging holes in our strip. We tried everything we could to stop them, this solution works. Once laid the strip is near maintenance free. Weeds still manage to grow in the joints and moss will grow. Work parties are organised to clear the moss.The surface is excellent, small foamies and their undercarriage love it. Big four strokes can nose over and still don’t damage the turf.
My Warbirds Replicas FW190 build.
in Scale and Semi-Scale kits
Posted · Edited by Bucksboy
Forgot to add thanks.
Eric,
Could you please show a bit ore detail around the battery hatch please? I’m nearly at the same stage as Gordon, I’ve glued the two sides together but haven’t glued the big, circular formers F1 and F2 yet, they are dry fitted. I have the battery hatch cover with the pre drilled holes, it fits well. I’m just struggling to understand how the latch is fitted and which bits come off?
As always, a picture speaks a thousand words so here is where I’m at.
thanks!