Jump to content

Luca

Members
  • Posts

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Luca's Achievements

0

Reputation

  1. update: order a new carb from the States , meanwhile a local lawnmower shop mechanic offered to professionally clean the old carb in a ultrasound hot bath. i rebuild the engine today and it started ! ,it seems to be working well now, no leakage and it keeps the idle. it might be different in the air but I would say that it is fixed. perhaps one of the jets was clogged will report again on the test flight . many thanks to everyone.
  2. even on the new ignition I am getting the same problem. must be the carb not regulating the fuel flow I guess, unfortunately next step would be to buy a new carb which seems difficult to get hold of a and I bet rather expensive
  3. it is indeed, every time I took it out of the cylinder the little recess around the thread was filled with fuel. what does it mean ?
  4. Update got the cdi ignition tester and, unfortunately the unit seems to be working. Also the sensor picks up the signal correctly. I managed to borrow a new ignition from someone and I will try it tomorrow regardless the tester says mine is fine. will let you know ....
  5. idle and high speed needles were at 1.5 turns out since the first flight and never touched till now, I reset them after rebuilding the carb.
  6. my dle ignition states working current 4.8 to 8.4v, it is the second version I think.
  7. Posted by Codename-John on 05/01/2014 22:05:28: Posted by Luca on 05/01/2014 21:50:48: the tank is at the same level of the carb. I thought that it is not critical in petrol engines as they are pumped. Edited By Luca on 05/01/2014 21:51:14 it doesnt matter if they are low or further away but if its higher than the carb gravity still affects it, you did say that fuel was pouring out of the carb not exhaust as steve suggests above, is that what you meant ? actually fuel pours out the exhaust as well as the carb air intake. battery is 6.6v life , yes it seems OK on multimeter
  8. the tank is at the same level of the carb. I thought that it is not critical in petrol engines as they are pumped. Edited By Luca on 05/01/2014 21:51:14
  9. found it, thanks John! http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__48141__Gas_engine_CDI_Ignition_Test_and_Timing_Setup_Tool_Includes_Crankshaft_Degree_Wheel_EU_.html will keep you all posted
  10. Thanks Steve, I just checked the wires coming out of the ignition box, they have a rubber protection where they come out and they seem to be intact. I understand that this does not guarantee that the ignition is playing up anyway. Is there a way to check it or a I better off buying a one and try it? Luca
  11. UPDATE Unfortunately after 6 successful flights, last week the engine suddenly became very difficult to start, it looked like the carb and the engine became flooded before it had the time to fire up. The only time it started and run for a few secs was with full throttle and no choke I spent and hour and a half at the field flipping the prop with no success ( i dont have a starter ...yet) Finally I decided to go home, I took the tank out, check lines and filter ( non foaming clunk) all ok ignition works took engine out and the carb apart , check the filter, injectors and seals , all ok as far as i can tell. today I put it back together with an ngk new plug and tried again with same result! it starts for a few sec on full throttle only and the dies with fuel pouring out of the carb air intake. anyone had a similar experience? any Idea on what to do next? Many thanks Luca
  12. nice !! I like the idea of clean fuselage bellies! having said that I am not sure if I you go much higher ( less oil) than  40:1 with a 20cc engine. less fuel runs thru it compare to a 50cc, consequently less oil to lubricate I guess.       Edited By Luca on 16/12/2013 19:19:00
  13. Many thanks to you both for your feed backs. most of the people at the field use motorcycle fully synth racing oil and regardless to the brand everyone is happy. it is early day for me but I would like to take the cylinder head off after a few liters and see how much carbon built up has formed. Some people in the US seem to be happy using fully synth oil at 40:1 to keep the engine clean! No warranty here though
  14. I am running in a DLE 20cc on a newly overhauled Flair Giles I have been advised to use the HPI one shot 2 s oil, I belive is fully synthetic but I could not fund much information out there. http://www.hpiracing.co.uk/piw.php?partNo=101911 Anyone using it? many thanks Edited By Luca on 15/12/2013 20:05:36
×
×
  • Create New...