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I've seen loads of 'radio controlled taxis' around. They all seem to have drivers. Who is in control???????

Instead of Ammonia spray the structure with window cleaning spray such as Mr. Muscle, let it soak in and the wood will relax, but it will also probably loosen the joints if they are made of PVA or white glue!

Photographer was Charles E Brown. His book 'Camera above the clouds' is amazing.

Without actually seeing the construction it is difficult to advise. But I would not use aluminium tubing on its own as on any impact it will just fold. I would consider using carbon fibre strip laid vertically, perhaps 3 layers, of different lengths, laminated onto the structure to spread the load. And consider using laminated (by you) very thin plywood construction for the wheel wells, with gussets or 'webs' on the outside, again to spread the load.

Apparently sheet film Kodachrome was available in ASA 6 & 8 speeds then. (The same as ISO numbered speeds.) 25 ASA Kodachrome was pretty slow (compared with todays 'normal' ISO 200) so it goes to show the skill of the photographer and the quality of the lenses used.

Now this is an interesting listing, there's a Jaguar available as well! **LINK**

I agree with Andrew 767. With Alex Weiss' book you could design something that flies, well, using just basic measurements, a suitable wing section, basic proportions, your outlines and a straight edge across the nomographs in the book to establish power/weight, wing and tail areas and so on. Even pushers, canards and deltas are dealt with in an easy to understand fashion.

I bet RyanAir have discussed doing something like this to save weight.

The bank robbery was in progress, customers and staff had been told to lay face down on the floor whilst the robbers looted the money. One of the robbers removed the balaclava he was using to hide his face. A cashier turned his head to look, so the criminal shot him. "Anyone else seen my face?" he roared. A small voice come from the corner. "No, but I think my wife might have!"

The problem is that the manufacturers website is 'under construction'. And they don't reply to emails. I have tried to download a driver from the German site that may or may not be for my scanner, (3600) but when I have downloaded it, it is labelled as the 1800 version which is why I have given up.

Birthdays (of members). Perhaps with a big present for those that reach 70 in June Some other forums have them. Not automatically linked, but only with consent of the individual!

Phil, I was referring to the posting from Martian, I can't see how the CD supplied with the scanner can be out of date. Will be looking out for the Aldi scanner, looks good for the price.

Phil, I'll watch out for it! Does the above mean that this scanner (or type of device) cannot be used by a computer user who is not connected to the internet? Seems odd.

SC The prize is a meal for two anywhere in the World you like. (Two sandwiches and you pay the travel!) This was actually a (humorous) prizeat a party I went to.

I give up! I have downloaded the 3600 driver from the German site, carried out instructions on turning scanner on etc. Scanner cannot be found. But I seem to have the 1800 dpi scanner driver installed instead of the 3600. Windows cannot detect the driver or find it on the internet and the Pacific Image download page is under construction. Not wasting another afternoon, so it's down to the charity shop on Tuesday

Happy Easter Ken. I will have another try later. Thanks.

After two years a change of computer and a house move I am trying to install my Cyberview film scanner (USB) without success. I did have it working on my old computer but cannot remember how it was done. I have CD and full instruction book. Briefly the instructions are vague as to whether there is one CD or two. I have looked and I certainly have had only one (unless I lost one in the move). Firstly I have to install TWAIN or Plug -in software from a CD (not really clear which CD) Then I have to use their CyberView X-SF CD to install the driver.(This is the CD that I do have). I have followed their instructions time after time but can find nothing in the on screen instructions that follows the information in the paper instructions. I have emailed the manufacturer twice in the last month but heard nothing. It would be a great help if anyone knows know if I have lost a CD for a start. Thanks. Edited By Chris P. Bacon on 31/03/2013 10:40:16

The court was in uproar, the jury were restless, the public in the gallery were arguing amongst themselves. The Judge, who was getting impatient with the noise shouted. "Can we have more decorum in this court, please!" So the usher left the room and the shout heard reverberating down the corridor to the witness room was........ Call Maudie Corum. Call Maudie Corum!

If you are flying in the UK on Monday don't forget the new rules from that date. Any person starting, operating any propellor driven device must wear safety glasses. These must be to EN166 standard. This also applies to rubber powered model aircraft with more than 4 doubled strands, ducted fan jets of more than 500 grams weight. And to boats and cars driven by airscrew. The regulation also covers launchers, mechanics and spectators who must wear safety glasses if they are within 5 metres of such a device. See the EU directive on their website for full details. So you have been told.

Driving test examiner to driving test candidate. "What would you expect to find on rural roads?" Long pause........................................"Er, rural tarmac?"

The usual reason that a good quality epoxy feels rubbery or sticky when set is that it is not stirred (mixed) enough. If you use 5 minute epoxy in a warm room, there is hardly enough time to mix it before it goes off. In my modelling room in an uninsulated loft when I was in Spain, in Summer, the only epoxy I could use was the slow Araldite. 30 minute ones would go off much too quickly. (Not that I spent much time actually making planes at that time, just repairs!)

I don't think that you can beat Araldite, it has been around since the 1940's (like me) It is used in various forms in the building industry. My dad was using a lot of it in his work in the '50's and I have used it since then, plus Devcon if I needed larger quantities. Many years ago I broke the rotor arm (remember those) of a car clean in two by starting it when the distributor cap wasn't on straight. I Araldited the two parts together, put the rotor arm in a hot oven for a few minutes. The repair lasted for tens of thousands of miles until I sold the car. But I prefer the slower setting glues of all types for wood joints because they give time for the liquid to soak into the grain.

As if- you don't feel cold enough, this was the pattern of ice on the roof of my car one night a couple of years ago.

The subject was well covered on this forum 5-6 years ago. Well worth a read.

Surely at an estimated cost of around £500 the Agostini Spitfire should fly well!