Matt Carlton
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Posts posted by Matt Carlton
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I cut a dowel slot in the centre ribs for the dowel, with 1/16" ply riblets either side. Mine has a single M5 nylon bolt into a blind nut in a ply plate inside the fus. But to be honest, it stays in one piece 99% of the time.
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I did the same as you and made a full D box, which made for a much more rigid wing. I also used shear webs of 3/32" vertical grain balsa. I'll see if I can find a couple of pictures
Edit: Found some pictures of a previous build which was going to be IC but converted to EP
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They probably have more sentimental value than financial. My advice would be to hang them up or put them on a shelf as a momento.
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The winglets on airliners and high performance sailplanes are an attempt to extract that little extra efficiency advantage where small percentages make a difference.
Personally, I think that apart from some very large models, the difference between having them and not is largely visual.
We don't generally have access to wind tunnels, flow modelling, computational fluid dynamics software etc to do the extensive R&D required to design and build a winglet accurately for a specific purpose and then to measure the effect etc.
With all the other factors we have in a "normal" model (exposed linkages, hinge lines, covering seams, surface irregularities, nuts, bolts, tape, stickers and everything else) I doubt that the small difference even a well designed winglet/tip would give would be noticeable.
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It depends to an extent on what sort of flying you intend to do. Bear in mind that most WW2 types had quite a thick wing and a thinner section can look a bit weird if you are aiming for scale fidelity.
Honestly, I think a Clark Y at 0 degrees incidence would probably be as good as anything else and might surprise you. Good performance and very friendly on landing etc.
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For what it's worth, here's mine. Overlander 3536/08, 3S 2200 Lipo, 11x5 APC. I did reinforce the centre section slightly. The motor "box" is deceptive as there are two 1/2" x 1/4" hardwood bearers inside and the whole bolted to the 1/4" ply wirewall
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Very sad to hear the news. I think it is not an understatement to say that Peter has had a hugely significant impact on RC modelling, especially in the UK. I have spoken with Peter personally on a few occasions and his willingness to help, support and engage were very much appreciated.
I grew up with Peter's plans bluetacked on my bedroom wall and he was pivotal in inspiring me to continue with the hobby.
Peters prolific output, character energy and humour are a fabulous legacy.
Rest easy Peter, thankyou for everything you gave to us.
Perhaps we should organise a "Peter Miller Memorial Day" at Buckminster or Old Warden. A fly in for PM designs, maybe a bbq, a couple of trophies like a "best finish" or "best crash" or something.
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A weird sort of thing where I have my thumb on top of the stick and my finger in a pinch position. No strap or tray.
I think it came from my instructor giving me a clout if he heard the sticks "spring" to neutral 😅
Excuse my mucky hands, I'd just been mulching the roses.
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24 minutes ago, Engine Doctor said:
Yes Solarfilm just kept churning out the rubbish polypropelene r8ght up until thry closed. Ok in its time but superceded by the polyester covering.
Was Solarspan polypropylene? I always rather liked using that. A bit thicker and less fragile in use I feel
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A rearward cg can improve the glide but that's mainly a free flight trimming thing to flatten the glide and make the model more sensitive to lift. In your case, you have an elevator so it's not such an issue, your flight pattern isn't likely to be climb/glide in the same way as ff. Better to have a stable, straight glide than worry too much about minimum sink etc. You can trim/shim to fine tune later as you dial it in.
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It creeps up on one. Lately I have developed an audible "oof" when I get up from a chair. I have messaged you my address. Thankyou so much
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Hi Peter,
I'm sorry to hear that you are not very well, I hope it's nothing serious and you recover quickly.
I try to use a rudder whenever I can, especially now that servos are so small and inexpensive.
I'll find someone to print it, or, frankly, I might just order a copy from Sarik.
Take care of yourself and get well soon,
Matt
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3 hours ago, Peter Miller said:
Hi Matt.
Where are you?
I have a local company who could help you out.
As a point of interest You might consider have the plan enlarged a bit while you are at it.
Peter
Hi Peter,
I'm in Norfolk. I thought about an enlargement but I have an existing motor/esc/lipo that gives me about 190W, so the smaller size appeals.
Cheers
Matt
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I thought about that. Just need to find somewhere out here in the sticks 😉
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Hello all,
Lacking the ability to print plans myself, I wondered if anyone has a copy of PM's "Tequila Sunrise" that they'd be willing to part with?
If this is the wrong place, please move it.
Thankyou
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Very sad news. One of those names absolutely synonymous with Scale for many years. A "go to" designer for any aspiring scale modeller.
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Hello all,
Quick question. Has anyone here built Roy Garner's 60" Extra 230?
Contemplating building one for electric but "back in the day" we did tend to overbuild a touch, so wondering what the build is like.
No indication for weight, but I'd guess around 7lb or so. I guess 850W or so as I don't want 3D performance, more "scale aerobatics"
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Quick question. In general, in the UK, copyright for written works etc is around 70 years:
Copyright Length (.gov.uk website)
Is there, does anyone know, a statutory length of copyright on published rc model designs, and who owns that copyright?
For example, if a designer sells a design to a magazine to be a "free plan", does the copyright then belong to the designer or the publisher?
The reason I ask is that I have often thought it would be nice to kit some of the older, "free plans" from the mags. Not that I am in any position to do so. But in the spirit of idle curiosity, I just wondered how such things are treated from a legal perspective.
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7 hours ago, Ron Gray said:
I'm afraid that it doesn't!
In a legal sense, you are possibly correct. I'm not a lawyer so I'm happy to be corrected. However, isn't it the same ballpark as "bull in field", "beware of the dog" or "caution, fragile roof" ?
If I drive down a road clearly marked "unsuitable for motors" and damage my car, who is liable?
Ergo, a sign saying "site protected by klaxon, may cause discomfort" then who is liable?
The principle being not to cause harm but to make the place uncomfortable to stay in long enough to go through with the robbery.
But, a legal expert, I am definitely not. So, by all means elucidate
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What about marking everything up with a DNA trace and slapping stencils all over? I'm not sure how much of a deterrent to a particularly keen thief it would be as they're normally stealing to order, but perhaps enough to deter an opportunist.
An alternative, I suppose, would be some very bright lights and sirens which would go off if the doors were forced.
I have a friend who has a car garage and he has installed some smoke systems, which fill the space with thick smoke. Coupled with a strobe and a siren, I can imagine it's quite effective at stopping people wanting to hang around.
Providing you put up a notice warning thieves of the potential hazard of course. That puts the risk firmly on their shoulders should they choose to go ahead.
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Cut a groove all the way round with a triangular needle file. Go round a couple of times and you'll find that you can just "snap" the tube along that line.
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Thankyou everyone
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So I thought this might be fun, but has anyone flown one?
I'm thinking a 4max 2847-2100 inrunner on 3S 1600, maybe a 6x4 or even a 6x6 APC prop?
How do you mark your operator ID on planes?
in All Things Model Flying
Posted
Presumably then, I can put mine on the inside of a hatch that uses magnets to close?