Andy Green
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Posts posted by Andy Green
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I would tend to agree about checking servo installation, but the problem ocurred by just rolling the sticks, not crashing them into the corners, and the problem disappeared with new servos.
As to capacity my cells are 2100mh NiMh (4 cell - 4.8V), I'm aware they have a high internal resistance compared to NiCd, but like I said the problem went with new servos.
Maybe I should revisit and give them another chance or as you suggest maybe I have a tight one, binding somewhere.
To be fair to the servos I only relied on my battery monitor, I've not done any in line current readings, and voltage checks.
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I purchase 4 Tower Pro MG995's from a reputable UK source (not eBay via Hong Kong) each one was noisy and consumed a lot of power, not sure how much but with a fully charged Rx Nicad, my onboard battery monitor always fell into the red if all four moved at once. I have never used them in flight. I bought 4 JR Digitals (DS811's) and although the voltage dropped one or to led's it was nowhere near the red.
That said I have used the 5g & 9g mini servos and have never had a problem.
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I've never had a swollen one (oh er matron) but all the advice is bin it. If it is so new maybe you have a warranty claim.
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In the RCM&E Special last year the article on fuels, Steve Dorling alluded to his wonder brew, but would not say what it was.
Does anyone know, or Steve if you read this can you tell us.
I'm interested because there is no castor in his mix, and I'm from the school of always a little castor, and want to try pure synthetic, but not sure who to trust.
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Hi Ian
I use a Schulze Chamaleon 330d http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.de/isl6-e.htm with the PC interface. Got it from West London Models. It does every battery I will ever come across (Nicd, NiMh, PB, LiLo, LiPo) My son uses it for his 1/10 touring car racing, and I charge my Lipos and Rx / Tx packs with it. The most useful fature is the 3 cycle auto charge / discharge, where I leave it running and it plots charge / discharge curves for the packs.
Cost about £145 so top end and the software is a bit quirky (german).
It can be used with most Balancers, and I use this one http://robotbirds.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=9_95&products_id=1248 which for £25 is amaizing. I like the mode where you can set up a pack without the charger connected and it balances the cells and shuts down when finished.
There are loads to choose from so the choice is yours, but my set up works great. -
I Use an 80W Weller. Available from Machine Mart http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/hk2-stained-glass-soldering-iron/brand/weller.
It has a large bit with plenty of (thermal) mass.
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Hi Grahamd
Sorry if I missed it but your instructions do not tell you to seal the wood first. Any chance they can be ammended?
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Just googled and found their new web site is http://www.flairmodels.co.uk/ They still do their big tiggie.
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Hi
I'm just completing an Alula (http://www.dream-flight.com/) It's white EPP, I've coloured it in with flourescent marker pens, and as BB says sprayed with contact glue (3M 77) and clear taped (I found some 2" sellotape in hobbycraft). I'll post again with a picture in the gallery next week.
Andy -
I have a few scanned plans (mostly keilkraft) and I use Isiplot to scale and print. Fantastic program and at only 10Euros it pays for itself the first time you use it.
http://www.profili2.com/ip_eng/default.htm -
Hi Duncan
If you can get it photocopied you can iron the copy face down onto wood. It has to be a photocopy (or laser printer if the plan is aready in electronic format), the heat from the 'Dry' iron reactivates the toner and some of it sticks to the wood.
Andy -
The C of G shown on the plan is just the starting point and it should not be a case of balancing on your fingers and forgetting it.
The C of G can only really be set up by flying the model. Andy Ellison wrote a rather good article in the RCM&E Special last year the same method can be found here - http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/factsheets/trimchart.php
There is also a very good DVD on the subject (although it only talks about gliders it does have relevance to all flyers) by Radio Carbon Art called Performance Tuning For Gliders (http://www.radiocarbonart.com/Pages/perftunemain.html).
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JOIN A CLUB
I taught myself to fly some 25 years ago on the slope (Guess that why I still enoy a good day on the hillside) but it ws only when I joined a club did my flying start to improve.
Following on from David's comment about a fixed learning schedule, always have a goal in mind each time you take off, be it the roundest loop, most axial roll or the smoothest landing. Look at the F3A schedules (http://www.gbrcaa.org/schedules.htm) and string a few manoevres together. One last thing; join in competitions especially your clubs ones, they are great fun and offer talking points for weeks later, and they give you that 'goal' the next time you comit aviation.
To quote David again - HAVE FUN
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If you go down the Poly-C route, a word of caution that caught me out. Poly C is water based so seal the balsa before using. Needless to say I was so keen to try the stuff I had half the fuz half covered before the grain started to show through the glass cloth. And to my knowledge no where does it warn of this (appologies if I am wrong).
That said the stuff is quite simply brilliant. -
I use Magic Tape for on the field repairs, Use the branded name, and it goes nearly invisible. It can also be used for (gap free) hinges on smaller models.
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Its 7 mins from door to gate for regular power flying off grass, and 22 miles to another site (& club) with a tarmac runway for those larger models. I also slope and it takes about 35 min to get to the Malverns.
weston park 2007
in Shows, Club Events and Competitions
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