Peter Witherington

What a helpful response thank you very much. I have been flying RC models for over 30 years but have never done anything too clever. I have learned from many mistakes such as check batteries, make sure your hinges are sound (and many others). I now have a variety of models - 3 biplanes going from a .46 size ultimate, a super skybolt to a 1.3 scale Pitt’s. I also have a Weston Cougar that I use to practice slow flight using rudder and ailerons for turns. 20 years ago I built a 65 inch spitfire. A beautiful model that I flew a bit but eventually it succumbed to a tip stall in a final turn that was too tight. It is still in my shed waiting to be repaired. I have always fancied a twin and that’s where the idea of the seagull mosquito came from - and that would not take the hours it took to build my spitfire. But the reports in rc universe put me off - if their review could prang it on the first flight and total in on the second, what chance would I have. However the comments and advice in this string has given me more confidence - so thanks again and maybe I will pluck up the courage.

I have read this string with great interest and am fascinated at the amount of thought that has gone into building and flying this beautiful plane. I was thinking of buying one until I read the RC universe articles on the model. The ‘expert’ pranged his plan on the first landing. He went on to repair it and had another stall at 100 ft from which he could not recover the plane. That persuaded me that it was a project that was beyond my limited abilities. However looking through all the comments and suggestions I have read above, I am considering the idea again. Are you able to answer two questions: how are you getting on with you planes now a couple of years down the line and: For a relative novice with warbirds, would you go IC or electric

Iam am interested to hear that Chris Bacon notes that his dropped a valve - I have had three 54s four strokes and with each the spring hold collar has shattered allowing the valves to drop. I was beginning to think it was something I was doing wrong. Has anyone else found this problem (If you are wondering whay I have had three engines, TT replaced the second one after the collars went within a few weeks).

I have read this chain with interest being on my third TT54 4s. I have never had any problem with he carberettor of idling adjustment. my problem has been with part 24 in the parts list - the spring hold collars. On each of my engines these collars have shattered. I have replaced them (£5 per pair) but they have shattered again. With the first engine I eventually replaced the valves, valvel springs, the spring retainer sets and hold collars but the result was teh same. I therefore decided to replace the engine and spent a great deal of careful time running it in accordance with the instructions but withing a month the engine went pop in the air (fortunately I safely got the model back down) but this time I resisted the temptation to take the rocker cover off and look. I took the engine back to the model shop - showing its near pristine condtion and between them and TT they decided to replace it. Since the symptoms were identical (the engine going pop under full power and then total loss of compression) I am certain that is was the collars again. However the message back from TT was they did not know what the problem was and they therefore replaced it. I returned home once again a happy man an carefull re-installed the gleaming new engine. First off was to run it in - again great care, best 4s 20% oil fuel, low revs, making sure the mixture was rich (so much so that I had to keep the glow lead on). A total of 45 minutes running - then off to the flying field and first flight was fantastic (apart from pilot effor landing which removed the undercarriage. Back home replace undercarriage and a week later back to the field. 3rd flight - pop successful but dodgy landing and yes off course no compression. this time I did take the rocker cover off and yes once again there are pieces of shatterd collar. Only the inlet valve had gone completely but the exhaust valve collar came out in two seperate bits. Before I take the engine back to the model shop again has anyone else experienced anything like this and got any ideas if I am doing anything wrong.