Redex
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Posts posted by Redex
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I too have built the Slingsby, nice model and flyer.
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Hi Steve,
I have the Chris Foss battery plate/tenon method fitted to my Wot4, Jitterbug and Tundra - works well, nice and secure.
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Yes your right, it failed on the elevator joiner to balsa joint, while the original glue was the usual white PVA. I have used epoxy on the added strengthening top dowel and bottom rod which now seems much more robust. It made a very odd sound with one elevator half flapping in the wind, we actually thought the motor had failed.
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So at last finished by Jitterbug and had just a few flights while the weather here has been kind. Only really two issues in that the elevator joiner broke on one half of the elevator while the other was still attached - landed OK with no structural damage - the cause was probably due to my inexperienced building skills. I have since strenghtend the joiner with 2mm wire and dowel support to each side of the elevator half/joiner. The other characteristic is that it seems to require right rudder on take off, although wheels, rudder, tail wheel all seem to be square/aligned, so perhaps its something to just get used to. For those interested in the power train I am using a Ripmax Quantum II 40, ZTW 70A Sbec, APC 13*6.5 and 4S3700 40C LiPo. appx 60A 850 Watts. The AUW is 2813gms which is fairly close to the original build article in RCM&E. It flies nicely at slow speed too, great model to build.
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Hi Nigel thanks, my NX8 displays O:05
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Hi All, Slightly off topic but I did not want to post in the 'AR620 Problem' as I don't have a problem, but just need some clarification on a telemetry issue. My AR620 Flight Log data works OK and outputs three parameters. F: H: O:
The AR620 receiver user guide does not define what these parameters are or how they are to be interpret. However I know what the F: and H: parameters are (from an AR8020T user guide), but I do not know what O: is defined as, or how to use its data. Any help/advice would be gratefully received.
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Many thanks for the guidance kc.
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Hi All, Just need a bit of advice with my Jitterbug build from those that have built this model. I have constructed the wing halves but not joined them yet. From the RCME article, it says that the dihedral should be 2 inches. Do I assume that this is for each wing tip, or does it mean 1 inch per wing tip i.e. a total of 2 inches, I am not sure. Also any starting point dimensions for the control surface would be much appreciated as I have finished the fuselage. Many thanks
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Thanks for the info and wing advice KC
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Can any Jitterbug flyers give me an indication of their control throws - are the decals still available, many thanks
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Just adding to this old build thread- I have taken the plunge and took advantage of a discounted Jitterbug kit offered by Sarik Hobbies a while ago now. So I am constructing an electric version of the Jitterbug and this is my fuselage build progress to date. Its taken me a couple of months to get here with a few mistakes on the way, which I guess is a bit slow compared to some more experienced - but the fuselage, is now finished, apart from some Jitterbug decals. I have power tested the drive train which all seems to be OK and so far the AUW of the fuselage only, is 1763 gms. Not really looking forward to wing construction as my other models wings are of the foam/veneer construction - but a different challenge with the Jitterbug. I have not read the posts about the wing anomaly yet, so next job then study the plan.
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The FunFly does have a slight dihedal which can just be seen in Pic 29 of the Building Pictures and also W47 in the CNC cut parts pictures. These were all part of the build instructions in my FunFly kit
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Maybe a suggestion to RCM&E for the 'E' part of the mag - an explanation of ESC working and/or construction of an ESC.
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If not already obtained, you could try Wych Bearings Limited, they stock 5*11*5 bearings.
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I have a kit built Acrowot using a 4S4000 30C and a 14*7 APCe, flys really great but just a little underpowered.
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My kit came with cutouts for dual aileron servos - in which I have installed HS-225MG servos.
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I'm really still experimenting with the CofG as I have not had to many flights yet. However I have the CofG set to mid way according to the text at 73 mm from Leading Edge.
The pilot I used was - 5508434 - JP Pilot Yellow and Red (P26)
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Tony, do you use a different colour scheme for under the wings - this is mine under wing.
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I use the Great Planes C of G Balance says it can take upto 40 lbs
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Very nice restoration too.
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All I can say is don't give up anything is possible. My quest was 4 years almost to the day plus a bit of on road sorting, but when I got it, it was little more than a rolling chassis with missing seat,lights,indicators,side panels, air boxes, it was fitted with rearsets, missing standard footrests/brake, some electric bits and most wiring broken or missing, rusted wheels ..uugh., and on taking the head off hc pistons were fitted no no no. The boxes of parts were mostly unusable - but I did get a 5 gallon ali tank with Monza cap. It also had the tax disc still on it from I guess when it was last used Dec/91 which I still have. I think someone had tried to convert it to a cafe racer and perhaps just given up or lost interest or moved on. So my advise is to not give up but just small bytes of the elephant, even if it does take some time. I'm a southerner, but you will then end up with, as I think they say up north 'that'll do' and of course its nice to save those classic things too.
I also had a T120 purchased from Moore's in Tottenham North London in 1972 with the front drum brake. Its reg still appears on the .gov website.
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At the risk of adding more MC's - When I am not flying and the weather is ok I get to ride my Triumph.
A true shed find + some shed boxes of bits + 4 years restoration work = 1975 T140V
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I have a Tundra too, very easy to fly and slow enough to give lots of 'thinking time' if you feel in trouble. Up the rates to max and you can have lots of fun too. Also for later, addons for camera and parachute drop. What about an E-Pioneer ARTF great balsa electric trainer with lots of info on this Forum. It was also the subject of at least two build past articles in RCM&E.
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Nice looking model and a great video. Thanks for the advice too.
Laminating film - buying it and using it.
in Modelling Money Savers...
Posted
I’ve just finished painting my 109 and found that electrical insulation tape worked well for use for masking. Not sure about using it on different coverings though, but it seems to have a low adherence factor.