Redex

Learing to fly electric R/C - but also just starting to restore an old and rusty motorcycle, once I can work out which bit to start on.

Usually have the iPod with Roxette or Bon Jovi playing, it seems to speed up the build process, for calm listening, generally DAB R2 or R4.

Am I right in assuming that the center line shown on the plan, through the example motor C5055, should align with the dotted line shown from the front of the fuselage through F1.

Wow - such a quick response, this forum is great and thanks for the explanation.

Moving F1 forward for me might also make the motor mount easier. Just another question about the undersheeting - I am not sure what 'X-Grain' means and so far unable to find a direct reference for it. Is this just a medium density balsa with the grain running across the fuselage or something else (I'm trying not to ask to many questions here!!).

Thanks for the detailed responses - I did think about widening the F2 opening but I was not sure of the the impact, if any, on the structural integrity or how wide to open which may then allow greater selection of LiPo - seems to not be a problem using either balsa or ply.   Although I have not started building yet - I have made a mock-up of the front fuselage sides including F1 from some scrap, to check if the 4120 fits - seems OK but requires a slot in the under sheeting to avoid touching the can. I think this slot could be fashioned to form a cooling intake and with a small slot in the bottom of F1 would see air over the ESC mounted in the plans battery compartment - I did a cooling slot something similar for an electric WOT4 build. Other than that I was going to velcro ESC to side of fuselage somewhere between F1 and F2.   I have an E-Pioneer and the detachable tail section, works well for transportation - incorporating on the Jitterbug is beyond my build capability at present, but sounds like a really good feature.       .

Hi All - new here, but been following the Jitterbug threads for the electric build tips, and this model looks really interesting. I have a QMS 4120 motor from a previous model looking for a home, so trying to see if this might be a suitable build.   What I would like to understand from the Jitterbug electric builders is, are there any preferred places as to where to mount the ESC e.g. to aid cooling or CofG balance and also in the case of LiPo's being used, generally do they extend through F2 or stop short - I have a spare Overlander 4S3900 which maybe a bit to wide for the F2 opening. Many thanks.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction of using the mix function. I'm still learning the basics of the TX so not really sure yet how to use/configure a Rudder/nose wheel mix. Hence the servo reversal procedure I followed from the web, which requires the back of the servo to be removed, the two motor wires to be reversed and the two outer pot wires to be reversed - requires some soldering, I now know that for Spektrum gear a mix is a better solution and keeps the servo warranty intact.

Wow - thats a lot of excitment for one flight, not sure I could handle that.   I have a question about the nose wheel control. I have a steerable nose wheel controlled by the nose servo which is also connected using a Y lead with the Rudder sevo, plugged into the Rudder channel of the AR 6200 receiver. ( I have reversed the servo wires in nose servo and which seems to work) But is this the normal way to control nose wheel and Rudder, or is it more normal practice to perhaps use the Mix feature of the DX6i, e.g trying to mix channels together to produce the Rudder and nose wheel synchronisation.

Thats good to know, I'm also hoping to learn a lot from it and I see some spares are available too, although I have not checked out the number plate bolts as possible replacement for the wing/nose bolts yet. Had a couple of flying lessons with i.c at a local flying school, but my interest is electric, now need lots of practise so finding a club seems the obvious way to go.   Been roughly following ther RCM&E 2008 article, but my JP 4220 motor needed a shaft reversal - not so bad as there was a 'How to' article in RCM&E, so just followed and it seems OK. Next up is a static test of the power train mounted in the model, I'm using 4S 3900 Overlander, EMAX 60a ESC and 12*6 APCE. The covering finish is not brilliant but I can live with that.

It does seem to be a small imbalance, so I am going to leave it and see how its madien flight and any trimming goes.

Thanks very much for the advise, that now makes checking the Cof G so much easier to do.   I was also wondering - in general terms about the accuracy of the lateral balance or if this is best left to in flight trimming, the E-Pioneer has 2 servos mounted in the tail plane which makes one wing tip lower than the other, I have offset this a little by mounting the ESC in the fuselage under the wing on the opposite side, which helps, but still seems to tip to the same side, I don't really want to add weight if accuracy in this trainer is not so much of an issue here.

Hi All, this a great thread of information on the E-Pioneer which I too am assembling as a first time trainer, but I have a question regarding how to check the C of G which perhaps someone could advise. In the manual it says that C of G is located 8.5cm back from le measured at the wing tip which is OK - but how is this checked, is a rig required to be built with supports under each wing tip or can the balance points be measured nearer to the fuselage sides, or is there some other tip - my arms don't reach that far!