Brainsparks30

Posted by Monz on 23/08/2015 18:13:42: Where are you? South Norfolk. A little travelling would be ok.   Edited By Brainsparks30 on 26/08/2015 19:37:42

I have posted this in the classified ad section but no replys yet. I need a good working surface and bench to build kits and scratch build on. I am willing to pay someone with the skills to build some sort of bench for me as I have no way to do so, wood/steel/ikea units, whatever. It will have to get up a victorian staircase (and down on moving). I have in mind an island mid size unit I can walk around in a guest room. I had thought of a flush ply door but it is a bit too long for current arrangement. I like the old school pinning down wood but have thought about the new magnet system. PM if you can help please. Beer tokens waiting.

I actually got stuck at how to alighn the tail squarely from the wing , kept finding references to bits of string, so I put it back on the shelf. I could not find a how to at the time, maybe there is one now?

Here we are then Mount front Mount rear Motor Rear Motor front

I bought this model as an ARF thinking it would be easy. I'm trying to find a motor that will fit, but 'im getting noware with this. I bought a Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3536-1050kv but it wont physically fit the motor mount and the three holes don't line up. This is really frustrating Can someone please advise a motor that will actually fit?

I finally went for the RCG 15cc from HK, after seeing that it had been used successfully by others, and its a drop in for later 60 size models. I'm not quite sure if the laser cut cross lines on the firewall are the thrust line? I have never mounted anything this big.

This will be my first 'large' model, and a return to to what I like best, I.C. power flying. (Despite its name it has I.C. option) I am having trouble deciding what to power it with, as I cant decide between a four stroke glow or two stroke petrol and even then, which one. I can blend my own glow fuel reasonably cheaply enough, and have access to good quality oils. I don't particularly want to spend a lot, given the cost of the airframe and I am not a brand name loyalist. Can anyone suggest some options for me please, along with some prop sizes?

I have stuck some in my album, I hope they all show up. Its bound to grow as I work out what I am doing I now consider the instructions a guide only, I hold them in contempt! The plans are bit off I think. This seriously needs updating, even if the price goes up slightly. Its way to easy to use the wrong piece of wood, for the wrong thing and the wood grades were not matched to well in mine. I know I have done some things wrong, but when two profiles of the same plan dont measure up, what do you do when the glues dried? I used sharpie marker and this steel rule to mark the plan covering, extending the former datum lines where you can actually see them with the wood pinned down. It was easyer to trim the formers to size after they were glued in. Then you will know that they match the sides. Use several engineers squares to alighn the other fuslage side when the first is pinned to the board. I picked a datum line which I decided was going to be the accurate part (bottom of fuse) and set everything else up from there (had to do the same from wobbly junior 60 drawings, keilcraft ect) If its not a critical alignment, then surely it will work? I wanted to try Gator glue on the L/E & T/E as I have had trouble sanding white glue before. It thought it would stick better anyway as it will fill all the little pores in the foam wing core, which does not look as it has been hot wire cut. I might try it on the wing joint too, but Im not sure jet. Use lots of masking tape, some of it popped off. Leave it to set well before carefully attacking with the davids plane. I only managed to remove some veneer twice... The wood is a bit bent so you will have to check often by sighting along you planed edge. I found rolled up towels usefull to elveate the edge being worked on. Needs sanding to finish. There is no ply joiner as the wing seems to be glued into the fuse to finish. What do you think, Epoxy or Gator When the wing is joined I want to wrap the sand paper round the L/E so I can finish shaping the front former/wing seat that I probably put too far back. The temporary rear ply former seems to big now I have tacked it in, the plastic cover bit wont fit over it I used thick cyano spots in the corners and kicker rather then Epoxy for this! Im not happy that the center of the tail will really be the center, so I bought a vertical laser line which I really needed anyway for fancy things in the future. The engine cowel wont fit over an SC .15 as it was designed for a hot cox, which is probably sat in a collectors cabinet somewhere with a silly price tag. So, this means I will have a go at making my own from a PET bottle and heat gun last part of the build. Comments and constructive critisism are welcome, and If you can do better, please, please show me how