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Stephen O'Neill

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Everything posted by Stephen O'Neill

  1. I was reading an article in a magazine recently where the writer was experimenting with the use of gyros to stabilize the aircraft . Having checked to investigate the subject a little further by going on line, it seems that the use of these gyros is quite widespread amongst the 3D flyers. My own personal interest in the use of gyros, as discussed in the magazine article, is to smooth out the unwanted movements caused by wind and turbulance and to make the model fly as scalelike as possible. This can be achieved by connecting a low end gyro to your rudder, elevator or aileron servo or one on each if you wish. Then there is the gyro that will cater for all 3 axes. Since this is all new to me, I checked out the price of a 3 axis gyro on the Powerbox Systems website and it is prohibative. I eventually came across a reasonably priced (relatively speaking) 3 axis gyro called The Eagle Tree Guardian 2D/3D Stabilizer and it seems to have a high reputation. The downside is that there are no more available till next Spring. Has anybody got views or experience on the use of these gadgets and are they as good as some are saying?   Edited By Stephen O'Neill on 05/10/2012 13:13:37
  2. Hello again gents. I am seeking some more of your good advice. Frankly, I am a bit confused with the connections etc on the 2S A123 battery pack I have purchased. The leads on the pack are: JST-x4 balance connector, a Deans Ultra female and a JR lead. This is going to be the RX battery and the reciever will be a JR RG631B. This is an IC engine installation. My charger is a Graupner Ultramat 16S. Can anyone explain the connection arrangement I will be using because I bought a power supply cable with switch and charger hook-up and I am wondering will I need to put an adapter on the Deans Ultra in order to make a neat charging socket on the model. Thanks in advance, Steve
  3. Thanks for that M. I see that the extra power was welcome to overcome the wind in the video clip. I think I will be choosing calm days only for scale-like flying. Steve
  4. Thanks Darryl, I dont want to come across as reinventing the wheel because my lack of knowledge and experience on the subject has me asking these questions. It looks as though no one is manufacturing 4-stroke engines in the range between 45 and 52 so I would say the safe bet is to go for what already has been tried and tested and just go easy on the throttle. The ASP 52 is certainly great value for money with an output of 0.95 hp and the closest contender is the Saito 56 which believe it or not is slightly lower at 0.9 hp. Thanks again Darryl for your help.
  5. Thanks for that Darryl. I will be ordering an engine soon for the Lysander. Do you think the Saito 40 (0.6HP) will be sufficient?
  6. Thanks for all of that gents. Well Darryl, that rules out the RCV. I did notice on Tony Nijhuis' video clip that the plane was flying quite fast and I believe he was using the equivalent of the ASP 52 FS. I had contemplated using the Saito 56 which is similar in output but 45 grms lighter and so I understand that weight would have to be added to achieve the correct balance. I am just thinking aloud here but would it be feasable to use a Saito 40 which would hopefully help the plane to fly a little slower but then another 150grms would have to be added to make up the right weight.
  7. I have recently purchased a TN Lysander kit and will start building at the end of the summer. I have seen some very good information on this forum so I am hoping there will be enough experience amongst you to be able to advise on the choice of engine. Is the RCV 60 too heavy, as it weighs in just over 600 grms with the silencer? Thanks in advance
  8. Edited By Stephen O'Neill on 08/02/2012 12:12:48 Edited By Stephen O'Neill on 08/02/2012 12:14:26
  9. @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css); Having problems uploading..just testingEdited By Stephen O'Neill on 08/02/2012 11:58:50
  10. Hi Phil, I am sorry I have not been able to contribute to the thread recently as I was having problems trying to upload. I understand what you are saying about the inadaquate bench space for joining the wing and I have had to resort to similar measures using a straight plank which is still a couple of inches short but will suffice. You can probably see from the photo that I have incorporated your idea of using the carbon tube (mine being 5mm OD). I think what is quite unique about this model is the one piece wing which makes it awkward for joining because similar sized models generally have two piece wings.
  11. Hi Phil, I just arrived home a few days ago and I had narrowed my choice of scroll saw to one which was priced at £165 plus postage from the UK to my home. I walked into my local Lidl super market for some groceries and found an all singing and dancing 120W variable speed scroll saw with tiltable cast aluminum table all for 69.99 Euro. I have been looking at the wing panel strengthening arrangements and I was thinking of continuing the top and bottom spar ply reinforcing plates one bay further each way into the centre wing and outer wing panels but the suggestions, from the angelfire article, for strengthening the aft section has left me scratching my head. The suggestion is to continue the ply doubler on the outer wing TE in way of the flaps and continue through the dihedral joint ribs on to the wing bolt blocks which looks as if it will be straight in the path of the wing bolts. Your strengthening arrangements using the carbon tube looks to be the most simple and practical way of dealing with this problem.   I have not got to building the fuse yet but the nose wheel I got is as follows; LXES72 Robart Fixed Steerable Nosegear w/Fork 3/8"and its the real McCoy with shock absorber and very scale like.
  12. Thanks for all of that Phil. I was just checking out the scroll saws and it looks like anything between 100 and 150 will buy a faily good one. i suspect the secret is in the quality of the blades. I have also been considering a bench sander for fine tuning the mitres on a stick built fuse but it was a disk type I was thinking of. Have you got anything to collect the dust or do you just sweep up afterwards?
  13. Hi Phil, good to see you back. I have been thinking about doing something similar especially because some of the plywood in my kit is warped. I was thinking of buying something like a table top band saw or similar that would accurately cut on corners and radiei. Have you any suggestions as I would'nt mind building from plans in the future.
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